The Ford Barn

bigd1101 · 05-27-2019, 04:08 AM

That blue fluid test I bought shows that some exhaust is leaking into the the water. I suspect a minor leak in the head gasket. No oil in the water, or visa versa, so at some point I'm going to have to pull the head. How hard is it? Is there a tool to lift the head off? I've seen where you remove the bolts and turn the engine over to pop the seal. Not sure about that method. Also, I don't drive the car much. Is there a temporary sealer I can add to the water that will seal a small leak for now until I can pull the head?

Also, those head pullers you can by at Snyders, once attached, how do you use it? What method/tool is used to lift the head? I see the large holes along the top of the puller but I'm not sure how they are utilized.

I'm going to re-torque the head bolts first before I try anything.

Don

1crosscut · 05-27-2019, 08:17 AM

Glad you are going to torque it first. Odds are that it will fix things up for you.
If you end up needing to remove the head the puller available from the vendors works well.
It screws into two of the spark plug holes and presses against the top of 4 of the head studs. Tightening the two adapters that go into the spark plug holes pushes down on the head studs lifting the head.

CWPASADENA · 05-27-2019, 08:37 AM

You are one of the few people who will check the coolant for exhaust gas. This is a very definitive check and is very easy to do.

I also agree with first re-torqueing the head.

Be sure the engine is cold. I will do it after the car has sat overnight.

If any of the nuts moved at all, do another heat and cool cycle and re-torque until you get no movement in the nuts.

Hopefully, this will fix the problem.

Chris W.

100IH · 05-27-2019, 10:33 AM

Big d, the tool lifts at the spark plug threads while pushing down at the top of the studs.

PC/SR · 05-27-2019, 11:07 AM

If you decide to remove the head, don't remove the bolts/nuts. Just loosen them about 1/16-1/8 inch, and turn the engine over with the key off. The compression should just give a "puff" and break any seal. I have heard in really tough cases you can actually start the engine and run it until the head loosens, ususally just a second or two. Never tried that myself but does seem it would be easier than some of the really difficult jobs you read about here occasionally.

bigd1101 · 05-27-2019, 12:17 PM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by CWPASADENA

You are one of the few people who will check the coolant for exhaust gas. This is a very definitive check and is very easy to do.

I also agree with first re-torqueing the head.

Be sure the engine is cold. I will do it after the car has sat overnight.

If any of the nuts moved at all, do another heat and cool cycle and re-torque until you get no movement in the nuts.

Hopefully, this will fix the problem.

Chris W.

On re-torquing the head, do I just put the 55 lbs on each nut/bolt in the proper sequence, or as some suggest, backing all the nuts off 1/8 first? I've heard both sides.

1931 flamingo · 05-27-2019, 02:15 PM

I would back off and re -torque. Lots of differing opinions on whether to do it hot or cold. Nothing to lose either way.

Paul in CT

BillCNC · 05-27-2019, 04:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigd1101

Also, I don't drive the car much. Is there a temporary sealer I can add to the water that will seal a small leak for now until I can pull the head?

Don

Don,

The problem with Temporary fixes that you buy, is they eventually clog the tubes in your radiator. The problem is even worse with our old radiator's that are half clogged anyway.

Back in the early 80's, an old fart (I was in my 20's) helped me out on the side of the road when my truck's lower radiator hose was leaking. The hose was already swollen, soft and to short to cut any shorter. The gentleman went into his Camper and pulled out a can of ground black pepper. I was just scratching my head.

Long story short, ... The pepper swelled up and plugged the leak. The best part was that pepper is biodegradable so it's definitely not permanent in any way.

Got me home and I've used it several times in a pinch over the year's.

Regards
Bill

30 Closed Cab PU · 05-27-2019, 05:34 PM

If you have not pulled a head before I suggest you have it done, at least have someone very familiar help you.

There are quite few other inspections you should make as long as the head is off. If the head has not been off recently, the method you suggest may not work, most likely not. If it has been a long time they can be very difficult to get off. Studs rusting to the head, gaskets pretty well heat welded to the both the head and the block, etc.

05-27-2019, 04:08 AM	#1
bigd1101 Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2018 Location: Ithaca Posts: 345	Exhaust showing in water jacket That blue fluid test I bought shows that some exhaust is leaking into the the water. I suspect a minor leak in the head gasket. No oil in the water, or visa versa, so at some point I'm going to have to pull the head. How hard is it? Is there a tool to lift the head off? I've seen where you remove the bolts and turn the engine over to pop the seal. Not sure about that method. Also, I don't drive the car much. Is there a temporary sealer I can add to the water that will seal a small leak for now until I can pull the head? Also, those head pullers you can by at Snyders, once attached, how do you use it? What method/tool is used to lift the head? I see the large holes along the top of the puller but I'm not sure how they are utilized. I'm going to re-torque the head bolts first before I try anything. Don Last edited by bigd1101; 05-27-2019 at 04:52 AM.

05-27-2019, 08:17 AM	#2
1crosscut Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Lincoln, Nebraska Posts: 1,907	Re: Exhaust showing in water jacket Glad you are going to torque it first. Odds are that it will fix things up for you. If you end up needing to remove the head the puller available from the vendors works well. It screws into two of the spark plug holes and presses against the top of 4 of the head studs. Tightening the two adapters that go into the spark plug holes pushes down on the head studs lifting the head. __________________ Dave / Lincoln Nebraska

05-27-2019, 08:37 AM	#3
CWPASADENA Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: PASADENA, CA Posts: 1,882	Re: Exhaust showing in water jacket You are one of the few people who will check the coolant for exhaust gas. This is a very definitive check and is very easy to do. I also agree with first re-torqueing the head. Be sure the engine is cold. I will do it after the car has sat overnight. If any of the nuts moved at all, do another heat and cool cycle and re-torque until you get no movement in the nuts. Hopefully, this will fix the problem. Chris W.

05-27-2019, 10:33 AM	#4
100IH Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: SW Idaho Posts: 970	Re: Exhaust showing in water jacket Big d, the tool lifts at the spark plug threads while pushing down at the top of the studs.

05-27-2019, 11:07 AM	#5
PC/SR Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Santa Rosa, CA Posts: 1,278	Re: Exhaust showing in water jacket If you decide to remove the head, don't remove the bolts/nuts. Just loosen them about 1/16-1/8 inch, and turn the engine over with the key off. The compression should just give a "puff" and break any seal. I have heard in really tough cases you can actually start the engine and run it until the head loosens, ususally just a second or two. Never tried that myself but does seem it would be easier than some of the really difficult jobs you read about here occasionally.

05-27-2019, 02:15 PM	#7
1931 flamingo Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: new britain,ct 06052 Posts: 9,390	Re: Exhaust showing in water jacket I would back off and re -torque. Lots of differing opinions on whether to do it hot or cold. Nothing to lose either way. Paul in CT

05-27-2019, 05:34 PM	#9
30 Closed Cab PU Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2018 Posts: 2,332	Re: Exhaust showing in water jacket If you have not pulled a head before I suggest you have it done, at least have someone very familiar help you. There are quite few other inspections you should make as long as the head is off. If the head has not been off recently, the method you suggest may not work, most likely not. If it has been a long time they can be very difficult to get off. Studs rusting to the head, gaskets pretty well heat welded to the both the head and the block, etc.