Broken head stud

[Frank Miller]

To answer why welding the washer/nut works all answers given make sense but it also puts the torque right at the thread and using an impact also helps to loosen any rust holding it. If you put an impact on the top of an intact stud it would just vibrate the shank.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Originally Posted by katy

Exactly, try getting warranty from Snap-on when you're not a regular customer and they won't even talk to you.
Snap-on used to be the largest tool company in the world, anybody know if they still are?

Our dealer would often pick up abandoned Dogs & offer them as a BONUS, with a tool purchase! He could QUICKLY train a Dog to sit in his seat, while we shopped the truck!
Bill Doglover

[Brendan]

Originally Posted by BILL WILLIAMSON

On Vermin, we broke off the top end off one of the LOOOONG studs, with a stud remover. The head was stuck beyond BELIEF!--Gregg wore out 17 drill bits, before we got that DANGED chunk of iron off!!!
Bill Tiredfromwatching

the head on my A was stuck Hard! Lots of %$&*(#$ at it. after 3 weeks it finely
gave up!

[Ed in Maine]

Don't beat yourself up, we have all been there. Years ago I had just installed a rebuilt block but told the builder that I wanted to do the painting my self. I wanted to be sure the block was grease free and I wanted to see that new looking copper gasket. The builder gave me a set of new studs. Sure enough, I broke a stud while torquing the head down using a torque wrench. The repro studs were lousy. You would have seen a grown man cry! A club member came over to my house with his mig welder and we used the washer and nut method to remove the stud. It worked perfectly. I have since used this method down to #10 - 32 screws and have been very successful. By the way, I have never recovered from the broke stud incident. I hate to torque cylinder heads! Ed

[Drive Shaft Dave]

Originally Posted by Ed in Maine

Don't beat yourself up, we have all been there. Years ago I had just installed a rebuilt block but told the builder that I wanted to do the painting my self. I wanted to be sure the block was grease free and I wanted to see that new looking copper gasket. The builder gave me a set of new studs. Sure enough, I broke a stud while torquing the head down using a torque wrench. The repro studs were lousy. You would have seen a grown man cry! A club member came over to my house with his mig welder and we used the washer and nut method to remove the stud. It worked perfectly. I have since used this method down to #10 - 32 screws and have been very successful. By the way, I have never recovered from the broke stud incident. I hate to torque cylinder heads! Ed

It's not your fault he gave you gyp parts.

[Zoltan]

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I finally got the MIG and washer trick to work. The weld broke off the stud many times. I drilled a small hole through the stud to make sure the Aerokroil would get to the bottom of the stud. I ground all the coating off the washer and cupped it to fit into the hole a bit. I heated the stud with a Map-Gas torch before welding to help the weld stick and to boil out the oil. Make sure to grind the surface of the stud clean before and AFTER heating it. I built up a large bead then used a pipe wrench and a hammer to loosen it. The repeated tries probably freed the threads. Also, don't spray Aerokroil on it after welding because it seems to weaken the weld. One down and one more to go. Good luck.