Drive shaft coupler play

[Hotrodvideo]

I just took out the banjo rear end assemble in my '32, it's a '40 rear and I one of the pins broke and I had to fix it.

While I was working on it, I noticed that the 6 to 10 spline adapter had a little play in the 10 splines. Not much, but it rocked back and forth slightly when I held the driveshaft and turned it.

How much is acceptable?

The car has a lot of chatter, I know the shaft slop isn't helping but could this be part of the chatter problem?

[DICK SPADARO]

If you have slop in the coupler splines and you have a shorted drive shaft you have one of two issues or both. This connection has to be perfectly on central axis. If you have welded the parts together off center they will produce a jump rope effect when spun, the higher the RPM the worse it gets. The fatigue part is the coupler since it fits some what loser than solid. If you are breaking the coupler pin that is a sign that the drive shaft is not true, you should be able to secure the drive shaft with a wooden dowel and it would not break off. Next issue to address if you have shortened the torque tube is to make sure that the banjo flange housing is welded on the central axis of the torque tube and that the flange has not been welded on so that the flange angle to the central axis distorts from the required 90* square requirement. If your torque tube has been welded up there is a very good change that the tube is not on axis or the flange is not square. This produces a bend in the driveshaft when it is coupled at the u-joint that is not easily visible by eye. When the drive shaft rotates this misalignment produces a wobble in the drive shaft that also is a noticeable vibration and produces the same wear at the coupler or knocks the pin out as it flexes.

In any case you have a problem that must be addressed. The best thing that you can do is take the parts to a drivesahft or machine shop that has a long bed lathe and check the runout on both parts. Something is welded up wrong somewhere.

[Kube]

The ONLY thing I can add to Dick's response? LISTEN TO HIM! He is right on in his advice.

[Hotrodvideo]

The driveshaft was shortened and welded and balanced by a professional driveshaft shop, the best one in Denver.

I cut and shortened & welded the torque tube, when it was done I stood it straight up on the flange on a level floor and put a level on top of the torque tube to make sure it was on center and it was fine.

I used 1/4 grade 8 bolts with locking nuts and a restorer told me that he only uses weldable steel rod with mushroom ends similar to what Ford did because that steel has more give and won't break like hardened steel.

The car had no vibration at all even at high speeds, but the clutch chatter is really bad in 1st & 2nd.

My guess is that the chatter down the driveline must have broken the bolt?

[Highboy34]

Years ago I had a 100% original 37 Ford with bad clutch chatter. When I got into it, I found the chatter had worn a lot of slop in the driveshaft coupler splines, which broke the coupler pin. The coupler is softer metal than the pinion or driveshaft. There was no wear on either of those. I suspect Ford manufactured the couplers to wear before the driveshaft of pinion gear.

New motor mounts, new anti-chatter rod bolts, new clutch and coupler and no more problems.

[Hotrodvideo]

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I could get a brand new 6 to 10 spline adapter but is a new Chinese made part better than a slightly worn original Ford coupler??

[columbiA]

Is the 6 to 10 adapter made up from 2 couplers welded together ?.If so,that could be the problem.Any slack anywhere in the drive line will create chatter.A loose U-joint or worn DS front brg will also cause chatter.Any side play at all in splines will break the pin.

[DICK SPADARO]

Clutch chatter will not snap the pinion or diveshaft coupler pin. If you are confident that the driveshaft is true then the next step is the torque tube as .040 out of wack will do the same thing. Welding it up and using a level is close but in this case there is a potential for error so my suggestion it take the torque tube to the driveshsaft shop and have it spun for center and square. To address your clutch chatter have you installed the anti chatter rods required?

[columbiA]

Over the years I have modified several Columbia OD,s to fit model A,s.The 1,st one I did back in 1960.I used the 6 to 10 adapter.In 1993 I modified it again to fit a 1933 coupe.that time I shortened the 33 DS. About 5 years ago I again modified it to fit an A. A few years ago I modified a 42-48 Columbia to fit another A.That one was more work as I had to shorten the Columbia hsg to work with the earlier axle shafts.I only had 2 solid DS,s with worn out splines on rear end.

[columbiA]

I used the front 1/2 on one end & the other 1/2 from the other DS as the rear 1/2 for the other end.I had to drill a hole on the black end for the pin.All this work was done with no more than a 225 amp welder,oxy acet outfit,angle grinder & normal shop tools.The secret is to measure twice,cut once.To keep the DS & TT in line,I clamped them to a heavy straight piece of angle iron for welding.To weld the outer hsg end on,I partially assembled the Columbia,clamped it upright in the vice & set the hub over the axle shaft to line Everything up & welded it.Everything came out perfectly straight & non of the DS,s had to be balanced.

[Karl Wolf]

I would try a new adapter for the slop.

Think about what you use for a pin, cause pieces of it may try to get into the pinion bearings.

There is a kit- a semi circle of spring goes around the drive shaft, has holes in the end that hold the locating pin in place, for when it breaks. Old part- may not be reproduced.

It may be that one does not even need the pin... (?)

Karl