Impossible ... Stuck head

[40Pickup]

I think there are different degrees say 1-10 of how hard a cylinder head is stuck.
In this case, I think I reached # 10.
Model B marine converted engine.
Penetrating oil and head puller in full tension for 2 months!
Nothing happened, so .......
Never realized that steel sleeves are embedded in the cylinder head, which tends to rust more than castings.
Anybody have experience with this?
Thanks, Jorgen

[Ray64]

Time for a different engine id say

[jhowes]

Jorden; I don't understand the steel sleeves embedded in the cylinder head. Is the block destroyed? If not use heat (not all agree on the use of heat and it does require that you are very careful so as to not crack the block) and remove the studs. Once that is done you are good to go. I have two old butcher knives that I hammer under the head where the gasket is and have been able to remove the head by this prying method and a head puller. After it is well soaked of course. Jack

[Phil Brown]

Looks to be a # 11
Had a head stuck like that once, messed with it for a few weeks before the puller finally won and broke the head. Then it got easy, finished up with a
3lb. hammer. It was like the studs and the head rusted into one solid piece

[Mike Peters]

You are referring to the steel sleeves embedded into every head stud? 14 of them, right? No, I never knew that B heads were built this way. Any cracks in the deck between any valves and cylinders? Common problem with B blocks.

[Tim Ayers]

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I would get an oxy-acetylene torch and heat that thing red hot and let it cool. You need to break the bond between the two somehow.

[Joe K]

Originally Posted by Tim Ayers

I would get an oxy-acetylene torch and heat that thing red hot and let it cool. You need to break the bond between the two somehow.

I would get bridgeport milling machine and mill off the head level with the deck. Some artful milling could avoid the studs to be removed later.

Heads are cheap and plentiful and new if you want them. Blocks are cheap too - at least here - but there is only a very limited supply of new.

Joe K

[Ruth]

Not to change the subject but I like the design of your head puller.

[Joe K]

Originally Posted by Ruth

Not to change the subject but I like the design of your head puller.

+1


Joe K

[Ruth]

Picture #1, post #1. Are you pulling the head with the distributor still in?

[Kurt in NJ]

I think at one time there was a problem getting the head off and to save the head it was core drilled, then to fix the large holes the Steel sleeves were put in, there were kits for the core drill to remove the V8 aluminum heads that corroded to the studs

[40Pickup]

Originally Posted by jhowes

Jorden; I don't understand the steel sleeves embedded in the cylinder head. Is the block destroyed? If not use heat (not all agree on the use of heat and it does require that you are very careful so as to not crack the block) and remove the studs. Once that is done you are good to go. I have two old butcher knives that I hammer under the head where the gasket is and have been able to remove the head by this prying method and a head puller. After it is well soaked of course. Jack

They seem to be cast in from the factory
maybe I'm wrong! Se reply from "Kurt in NJ"
The block looks good, the removal of the stud bolts I think I handle.

Thanks for the reply.

[40Pickup]

Originally Posted by Phil Brown

Looks to be a # 11
Had a head stuck like that once, messed with it for a few weeks before the puller finally won and broke the head. Then it got easy, finished up with a
3lb. hammer. It was like the studs and the head rusted into one solid piece

You have better words for it!

Originally Posted by Mike Peters

You are referring to the steel sleeves embedded into every head stud? 14 of them, right? No, I never knew that B heads were built this way. Any cracks in the deck between any valves and cylinders? Common problem with B blocks.

If I remember correctly, it was at all 14.

Originally Posted by Tim Ayers

I would get an oxy-acetylene torch and heat that thing red hot and let it cool. You need to break the bond between the two somehow.

Yes I understand!
Sometimes you have to sacrifice one to win another.

Thank you all.

[Synchro909]

That's one way to remove a head. Now to reassemble it (the head, that is).

[Bob Johnson]

Been there done that. I had an engine head that had to be broken into very small pieces to get it off. The studs were so stuck to the head that a few of the studs only came off when I could turn the remaining chunk of head that was "fused' to the stud. Some of the studs unscrewed from the block and some just broke off.


Bob

[30 Closed Cab PU]

So can the damage to the block above the intake port on cylinder 1 be repaired,? Looks like there is a chunk missing/broke off. Am curious, am not a mechanic so I have no clue.

[30 Closed Cab PU]

double post deleted

[Brian in Wheeling]

Head gasket probably didn't leak!

[Terry, NJ]

I was told that oven cleaner would do it. Saturate the studs and let it creep downward between the head and the stud, but alas, I didn't work for me (some things don't) Not enough oven cleaner? More time to work? Who knows! Has anyone ever tried reaming out the holes half way through the head? I wish I knew if this would work. How about painting the studs? And or the holes? Good luck!
Terry

[ronn]

I agree with Ray- new motor...............