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#1 |
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I have an air-cooled Fordomatic in a '55 Bird that the transmission rebuild shop said is a two speed. When driving or being manually shifted it only shifts one time.
It was my understanding the original air-cooled auto trans for a '55 Bird 'should' be a 3 speed that normally just skips first gear unless manually shifted, or kicked down. Same with the '56 & '57 Ford-o transmissions. But, the transmission info at this link says the automatic is two speed, and the same for '56 & '57 Birds. http://automotivemileposts.com/tbird/prod1955tbird.html I'm confused. Was the '54 Fordomatic a two speed? How would I easily tell them apart if they're different from the air-cooled '55 version? I remember the ID tag on the trans being blank when I was looking at it a few years back. Are there other numbers or letters cast into the trans that would be different? The car had a '54 engine when I got it and the transmission may(?) have come with the engine. OR, am I lost and barking up the wrong tree? ![]() . Last edited by dmsfrr; 02-11-2020 at 01:21 AM. |
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#2 | |
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#3 |
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the 54 was-is a 3 speed sorry not about to crawl under to check for I.D.tags etc.if you like the idea of shifting pull it into low run it to about 25 pop into drive and carry on.if done right you can chirp the tires
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#4 | |
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Incidentally, is your T-Bird a very early production car? If so, it may have had that 256 engine from the factory. There is an article in a 1954 Popular Mechanics magazine (about April or May, I think) that talks about the upcoming Thunderbird and lists the engine as the 256. |
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I think the 256 Merc Y-Block in early '55 T-Birds might just be an old wives tale. Why would the use an inferior less powerful engine in a Bird if the 272 was available from the start of '55 production ?
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#6 |
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http://www.oldcarbrochures.com/stati...Folder-06.html Even the earliest production '55 TBirds had the 292... "For 1955, the first 1000 Dearborn-built Ford VINs - 100001 through 101000 - were reserved for the new Thunderbird. All of these cars had the same 292 cubic-inch V-8 engine (P) . . . " http://www.tbird.info/first-1955-thunderbirds.htm The one I have is slightly later than this earliest group, scheduled build date Nov. 9th of '54. I suspect one of the previous owners may have worn out / used up the original 292 engine. Or... Back-in-the-day the car was in a bad enough wreck to have the frame replaced. Maybe the original engine & transmission were borrowed for another project at the time. The '54 Merc 256 EBY engine in the car had a '57 tach drive distributor, '57 ECZ-B intake and an Autolite carb from an FE 390 when I got it. It didn't run well at all. Maybe a vacuum leak from the mis-matched intake manifold? List of Y-block engine block casting number prefixes by year... http://www.ford-y-block.com/Block%20identification.htm 40 Deluxe yes it's odd they didn't list the 1:1 high gear. I missed that, thanks. I've seen the same transmission specs on at least one other website. Maybe they're just copying the info from each other??? On the left side of this linked '55 Thunderbird info page... (photo attached) http://automotivemileposts.com/tbird/prod1955tbird.html . Last edited by dmsfrr; 04-17-2020 at 12:06 PM. |
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#7 | |
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On the photo you show, again it lists the low gear and 2nd gear ratios, but not the 3rd gear ratio of 1 to 1. |
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#8 | |
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Attached are excerpts from an introductory BIRD BROCHURE. No publication date-
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The FORD-O-MATIC was a three speed transmission. It is what is known as a SINGLE RANGE whereas the CRUISE-O-MATIC (1958/ ) was deemed DUAL RANGE.
The FM started in 2nd for fuel economy purposes. If you wanted performance, you either pull it into low or gagged it. Brief and Concise Description - http://www.charlietranny.com/Fordomatic.htm
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It is assumed FINAL is 1:1 unless an OD.
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![]() So the engine was documented (CASTING ID - DATE CODES) as a 256 EBY? Regarding the ECZ-B intake, were there any vacuum leaks as while the EBY was a CF design, it also had the smaller heads.
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#12 | |
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I didn't note or take photos of the date code because I wasn't that concerned. Just sold it to the first person who wanted it. Vacuum leaks? The idle was real erratic and if I didn't slip it into neutral and keep it reved up it would die at every stop. I didn't do any diagnostics on the engine since I wasn't keeping it, was more concerned with getting it out and finding a good replacement. Initial topic... I'm not happy with the apparent 2 speed transmission. The car seems a bit sluggish and doesn't take off well in its Lo gear (shakes & makes squealing noises occasionally unless I shift it manually) and RPM on the road is higher than I'd like. With all the trouble to take it out I'd almost prefer to swap it for something better, maybe AOD? I still need to double check the ignition timing & distributor operation after its initial setup, also the head bolt torque(?) valve adjustment and oil change. The replacement 292 has just turned its first 1000 miles. . Last edited by dmsfrr; 02-20-2020 at 07:21 PM. |
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AOD = $$$ but makes sense.
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#14 | |
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It was a rebuild of the trans that came with the car. It's been back to the shop since then. They said they dropped the pan to check it out and made some adjustments. Still seems the same to me. |
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Were you able to ID the TRANS? It may be calibrated incorrectly.
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1955 FORD THUNDERBIRD SALES BROCHURE EXCERPT
(No Pub Date) -
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I don't know as much as I'd like to. At the moment I can't get the car high enough off the floor to really be able to get under it.
Tried to measure "A", the length of the main case and got 10 & 1/2 inches. So not accurate enough with one hand and a tape measure??? However, at this website http://www.charlietranny.com/Fordomatic.htm I did find an image that looks like the same pan/pan gasket, with 14 bolt holes. (photo 1 below) The inset corner is at the front of the driver's side of the trans. The main case is cast iron. I didn't find a picture of an air cooled Ford-O like this one on that website, but found one I took a while back. I'll make another attempt to get underneath after I get more jackstands. Last edited by dmsfrr; 02-18-2020 at 11:08 PM. |
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You have a typical small-case two speed Ford-O-Matic. They were commonly used for Ford full-sized cars V8 and 6-cyl applications beginning in 1951.
The 1951 thru 1954 Ford-O-Matic's had a cast-iron rear extension housing. From '55 on up, they had an aluminum rear extension housing. '51 thru '56 had air-cooled converters. '57 and later (with V8) had water-cooled converters, but they kept the air-cooled converters for the 223 I-6 all the way thru to '64 I think (when the 223 was discontinued). If I remember right, the Cruise-O-Matic had a slightly longer case (known as the medium case). The transmission fluid pan was shaped a little differently and had a little bumpout on the passenger side. That has always been the easiest way for me to determine the difference. The Cruise-O was normally not used on full-sized cars, but they were installed in Mercury cars and wagons and they were installed in Ford Thunderbird's. I just don't know what year they started. The '55 T-bird came from the factory with a 292 as the 312 was still a year out yet. Lincoln had a whole nuther animal, known as the large case Ford-O, and if you saw one of those, you could easily tell the difference without measuring. |
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#20 | |
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My biggest concern is why it seems to only have two functioning forward gears instead of three with a 2nd gear start as I've been told it 'should' be. I asked the transmission shop that did the rebuild the same question and they told me it's really just a 2 speed. So where did the other gear go??? ![]() Shifting manually or driving it has two forward speeds and shifts only once. I initially thought the shifter might be out of position relative to the transmission and it may not reach the actual Lo gear position (since starting up from a stop seems a bit sluggish and at times squeals and shakes the car) but it lines up with the P R N D L letters just fine. I'll double check that adjustment too. . Last edited by dmsfrr; 02-18-2020 at 12:49 AM. |
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#21 | |
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Small Case is a FORD-O-MATIC. Mid-Case is a MERC-O-MATIC designed for the heavier MERC and FORD performance applications of the period. The CRUISE-O-MATIC/MERC-O-MATIC was introduced in 1958 whereas it was a DUAL RANGE, normally starting in 1st although the driver could choose a second gear start, The ONLY 2-SPEED TRANS (FM/2)was introduced in 1959 for economy applications and was replaced by the C4. I cannot understand on this late date how the confusion continues.
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#22 |
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my first 55 Ford with Fordomatic trans was 2 speed (only shifted once if started off in D ), If started off in L Shifted to D then shifted back to L then shifted back to D it shifted 2 times. There was what a Ford mechanic told me, was an intermitten range that had to be manually shifted. What i know is it worked that way when I was red light dragging. Would run damn near as fast in L as it did in D. I'd call that a 3 speed trans. They did away with in when they went to Crusamatic, My 60 Fordamatic when I tried it, it liked to have put me on the dash. Live and learn
Last edited by grumppyoldman; 02-18-2020 at 12:15 PM. Reason: make change to wording |
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#23 | |
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Here's what I suspect may be going on (but prefer not to think too hard about) For some reason the transmission isn't able to actually shift into first gear and still starts off in 2nd. The transmission shop may(?) not have done the rebuild work correctly and isn't wanting to have to redo their work. Their story is *It's a 2 speed*, so that I'll just go away. I will continue to examine and readjust the shifter and kick-down linkages and keep my fingers crossed. . Last edited by dmsfrr; 02-18-2020 at 11:20 PM. |
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#24 |
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I remember your saying it had a 239/256 (?) in it when bought. And you found a 292 to replace it. Is the TRANS the one that came with the car?
Need the TRANS ID when you can. The POWERGLIDE is a 2S, the FM is a 3S. It had the 2nd gear start for fuel economy.
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#25 | |
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Where my concern is, lies in the fact that you are using a '57 and later intake manifold (which only properly fits on the 272/292 heads), and I am wondering if the guy who did the ill-advised swap, carried along the proper Ford-O-Matic passing gear linkage with it. Thake some pics of back of intake manifold behind you carb so we can see the linkage. Do you see a rod connected from there that goes down to the passing gear lever on the trans (right where the shift lever is)? If not, you have problems. The Ford-O-Matic will not operate properly if that is not installed and not adjusted properly. |
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What some folks refer to as a kick down rod & lever is not quite correct. There is the gear selector lever and a throttle control lever. These transmissions use the throttle control lever to control pressures inside the transmission. Kick down will occur due to the spike in pressure when you floor it but it's not there just for kick down. Since there is no vacuum modulation like the 61 & later cars have, the shifting pressures had to be controlled through the linkage with the engine throttle control. The control mechanism behind the carb is a bit more complex than a kick down. It has to be properly adjusted to get correct shift control throughout the range of operation. As you push down on the throttle the TV valve (short for throttle valve), constantly increases transmission pressures as the throttle is opened up. The governor is set for shift points but it also has to have the correct pressure to shift properly. Too little pressure and it will slip. Slippage will kill the plates in these transmissions so adjustments have to be done a little bit at a time to adjust for a faster harsher shift down to a slower sloppier shift. You want somewhere in between when adjusting the TV rod linkage.
If the transmission has internal leaks due to bad o-ring seals, worn piston ring seals, bad servo diaphragms, or loose & leaky tubes then the transmission will have shift problems. Guys that know these transmission well have to diagnose off what the shift characteristics are. Generally the first thing they will do is a pressure test. A person needs the tech manuals for the transmission they have. There are a few shops out there that specialize in these units due to the number of T-birds and popular collector mid 50s Ford cars & trucks that have them. The AOD is an option but the kits are expensive. These transmissions are distant relations to the old Ford-Os in that they have ravigneaux planetary units and still use a cable to control the TV valve but they have much more modern technology with the big advantage of overdrive. |
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#28 | ||||
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The engine is now an ECK '55 292 block w/ '58 #5752-113 heads and a '57 ECZ-B intake, '57 Holley List#1273 4bbl carburetor and '57 tach drive distributor. 1000 miles since it was rebuilt & installed. Quote:
Photos below of the throttle linkage bellcrank with the transmission kickdown / TV rod attached. I suspect it's the '57 version bellcrank but I'm not positive. There is a turnbuckle sort of adjustment rod between the firewall mounted throttle lever and bellcrank on the manifold. My first impression of it, when trying to follow the kickdown / throttle control rod adjustment procedure, is that it's too long. But I'm not sure how it would make a difference. The TV rod length is currently adjusted to 'just fit' into its hole in the bellcrank when the throttle is fully released in the 'idle' position & with the choke / fast idle off as well. Please excuse the chipped paint on the bellcrank, it's on the to-do list. Quote:
![]() I do have both a '55 and '57 Shop Manual and have been valiantly (if only occasionally) attempting to follow those adjustment instructions. Quote:
The transmission was rebuilt before I reinstalled it and the engine. Using Mercon transmission fluid recommended by the rebuilder. Last edited by dmsfrr; 04-17-2020 at 12:15 PM. |
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#29 | |
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When all is assembled correctly, proper TV pressure is going to have to be set with a pressure gauge.
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There is a procedure to set the down shift rod spelt out in the Fordo manual and in Motor's books. It is not in the regular shop manual.
The linkage set up looks like the 57 linkage. I have the same on my 56 Bird
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I haven't had a Fordo since 1968, so I'm trying to remember what I've read more recently. But isn't there a kind of "slip joint" in the bellcrank, and a spring that controls it? And you push that down, put a 1/4" rod or screwdriver thru a couple holes, and then set the rod? Greenbird56 (either here or at yblocksforever) had a good post about that some time back, but I'm not so good with the search function on either site. Just trying to jog someone who knows.
Not to say a pressure gauge isn't the final answer. |
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. Last edited by dmsfrr; 02-19-2020 at 11:06 PM. |
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Okay, so now getting some better info. You do now have the old 256 motor swapped out with a 292 and have the '57 & later intake manifold and carburetor complete with the '57 style carb linkage and kickdown mechanism to some degree. And we go from there.
And excuse me for using confusing terminology. I thought we all knew that the kickdown is really a fluid pressure control, but us hillbillies down here use the term "kickdown". As far as the 2-spd/3-spd confusion, it's just a matter of terminology. The small case Ford-O-matic is a 3-speed, single range trans, while the Cruise-O is a 3-speed, dual range. They are ALL three speed. But a lot of us old hillbillies call the Ford-O a 2-spd, but that's actually wrong. It only shifts ONCE in "Drive". Now dmsfrr, I have two '55's with Ford-O-Matics. The adjustment procedure for the "kickdown rod" is NOT located in the car shop manual. You need the Ford-O-Matic shop manual for the adjustment procedure. I have had the 1956 Ford-O-Matic shop manual since 1973. In the '56 Manual, you would look at page 20 and 21 and there's a good illustration of your linkage on pg 21. It looks to me like you have the clevis unscrewed way too much, meaning the "kickdown" lever at the transmission is rotated down too far. |
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#34 |
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The small Ford-O 2-speed is easily distinguishable by its small size and aluminum case. They were made for the Falcons and the Comet as well as other light duty applications that hit the streets in 1960. The 140 was a doggy little bugger so the 2-speed was all it needed to drag grandma to the grocery once a week.
One or two of the Borg Warner specialists use parts between the models to build a stronger transmission with a bit more longevity. They may recommend any sort of ATF but I will add this. Ford developed Type F fluid in 1967 for all of their transmissions up through the FMX series. The only exception is the C6 that came out in 1966. You can likely get away without using type F but it is a good fluid to use on the old transmissions that still contain the bronze & steel clutch packs. It helps them engage better without slippage. Use it or not but if it slips, a change to Type F might help that since that is what it was for. If it is a band slipping then it won't help with that. Valves can get sticky in the valve body so conditioners can also be used to help them work better until the unit fully warms up. These old transmissions can be cold blooded but they usually work the best when fully warmed up. I would do a pressure test on it per the transmission manual for the unit you have. This will tell you whether it has enough to work or not if nothing else. If there is an internal leak, it won't fix itself. If you haven't seen this then it may be a good read. http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/Topic117674.aspx Last edited by rotorwrench; 02-20-2020 at 11:34 AM. |
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without being there I have a feeling you may not have the proper springs on there.I am not familiar with the 57 bell crank.I may have the spring info somewhere(number of coils etc)as to the pressure gauge you need a protractor in conjunction with it.the transmission shop may or may not have it.if they did you would need to take the car to them.they have probably built it right but they can not do anything about the linkage unless they have it.I am going to suggest something that may work if the spring(springs)is wrong.it will require you placing a 1 /4 or 5/16 bolt and nut and clamp that slide in the spot I show on linkage thus limiting the slide.this is a simple thing and can be reversed easily by removing.I neglected to say try driving it and see if it takes off the way it should(SECOND GEAR)if so then I will try to find the info on springs
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Tinkering with it today but I have other plans tomorrow and the weather is supposed to go bad Saturday and Sunday. So a test drive may have to wait until next week. In the meantime, if it's raining or snowing, more jackstands are here now and I'll try getting the car high enough to have a look at the ID plate on the transmission. Quote:
(but no difference I could notice) and that they were really busy. . Last edited by dmsfrr; 02-27-2020 at 07:27 PM. |
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If you keep fiddling with it by trying this and trying that, eventually the trans will burn, especially its being air cooled. When it shakes and vibrates @ take-off, it is telling you something. CHANCES ARE ... Get 'em Johnny Rivers ... ![]() The shop could not get the pressure set correctly as the car has the wrong linkages and could not arrive at the correct geometry. Either realizing or not realizing, they got it close (hand grenades) and drove her out. Why a volume shop does not offer services on an older car. No TECH INFO and no easy parts source. PASS CAR and BIRD linkages are not the same.
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***** - WHY IS IT ... ![]() ... that everything you buy in the grocery store is either wrapped in or contained in plastic but the government doesn't want you to carry it out in a plastic bag? WONDERING IN W(BY GOD)V ...
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#38 | ||
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Abq, NM
Posts: 3,607
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I re-read the adjustment instructions and they say to adjust the TV rod to 'just fit' into its hole in the bellcrank then remove it and increase the TV rod length by 3 counterclockwise turns of the adjustment, then reattach it. Test drive and if slippage is still evident increase the TV rod length by 1/2 turn. That jives with what rotorwrench said earlier about a shorter TV rod lessening the pressure and causing slipping, and adjusting it longer increases the pressure reducing slipping but creating a harsher shift. (and finding a good compromise between the two) Quote:
No test drive til next week, with rain or snow over the weekend. . Last edited by dmsfrr; 02-27-2020 at 07:28 PM. |
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#39 |
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Abq, NM
Posts: 3,607
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According to this link the ID letters 'should' be PMB-C, printed in red paint on the left side of the ID tag.
https://www.ctci.org/fordomatic-tran...dentification/ But the paint on the tag is missing, washed off at the transmission shop. Someone who shall remain nameless didn't take a photo of it first. There are some remaining numbers & letters on the tag if they're helpful. 19-1872S2 I've found some info online that may(?) be helpful once I can review it. But may not be looking at the best websites for this transmission. Just in case these tag photos designate something meaningful I'm including them below. photo 3 - During several internet searches I haven't come across another Fordomatic transmission image that matches the passenger side of the main case this one has. Last edited by dmsfrr; 02-25-2020 at 12:41 AM. |
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#40 | ||
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Granite City, Illinois
Posts: 3,008
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There is a SEPARATE Ford-O-Matic shop manual that covers the passing gear adjustment completely for all vehicles of that year. There is a separate shop manual for trucks. |
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#41 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Granite City, Illinois
Posts: 3,008
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That passenger side is identical to both my '55 Ford-O-Matics and is the same for every small case cast iron Ford-O-Matic from at least '55 thru '59. The earlier ones had a filler cap where that rounded portion is near the rear and the transmission pan did not have a dipstick/filler tube. That's really the only big difference between all the small case Ford-O's from '51 thru '59 as far as the trans case goes. |
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#42 |
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 16,426
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They started using the oil cooled transmissions early in 1956 for the T-birds. T-bird transmissions had an extra plate in the clutch pack but otherwise were nearly identical to the other Ford units of each year model. I wonder how many 55 birds were changed over to the later 56/57 oil cooled transmission? If I was going to that trouble, an AOD would end up in there. I'm not a big fan of those air cooled units. I do understand originality though if a person goes that route. The air cooled jobs can work well but it's not easy to get them there. A person really has to play with them a while to be good at rebuilding them correctly. NOS hard parts are getting scarce and no one reproduces them. Soft parts & clutches are available but they don't stack up like the OEM stuff. This really complicates the set up assembly during overhaul. What I'm inferring to it that they are easy to get wrong if you don't know them well enough.
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#43 | |
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Abq, NM
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. Last edited by dmsfrr; 02-25-2020 at 06:39 PM. |
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#44 | |
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: IN A 'GALAXIE' FAR FAR AWAY
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![]() The TAG ID may be the re-builders reference.
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***** - WHY IS IT ... ![]() ... that everything you buy in the grocery store is either wrapped in or contained in plastic but the government doesn't want you to carry it out in a plastic bag? WONDERING IN W(BY GOD)V ...
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#45 |
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Abq, NM
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Are you talking about the oval ID plate riveted to the drivers side of the transmission?
Image 1 and 2 below. The transmission ID letters/numbers on that ID plate and the surrounding background are printed / painted in red onto the plate. Confirmed on the transmission in question by a somewhat blurry zoomed in 'before' photo 3 of it coming out of the car. All that remains on the ID plate after a trip thru the transmission shop parts washer are the stamped numbers on the right side. photos 4 & 5 Last edited by dmsfrr; 04-17-2020 at 12:29 PM. |
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#46 | |
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Quote:
OK, I think it finally set in. On the RS of the ID TAG, it does not give ENGINE SIZE but an unknown SERIAL NUMBER. I thought you were describing the right side of the case.
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***** - WHY IS IT ... ![]() ... that everything you buy in the grocery store is either wrapped in or contained in plastic but the government doesn't want you to carry it out in a plastic bag? WONDERING IN W(BY GOD)V ...
![]() DIAGNOSED CDO - (OCD In Correct Alphabetical Order) |
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#47 |
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Abq, NM
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Results of a short test drive thru my neighborhood, with a (mostly observed) 15mph speed limit.
Starting up from a stop no longer has the occasional shaking and squealing. Placing the shifter in low and applying some extra pressure to the Go pedal provides a new found rate of acceleration. ![]() Still not sure if I can feel 2 gear changes but it's much better than it was. Looking forward to a 30+ mile round trip across town this coming Sunday for a Ford dealership anniversary car show that our club was invited to. . Last edited by dmsfrr; 02-27-2020 at 09:33 PM. |
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