The Ford Barn

yblock57 · 11-07-2021, 08:17 PM

Recently picked up a manifold to change out the stock 2v intake on my ‘56 truck to a 4v. Plan is to have it hot tanked first. While it’s at the machine shop, should I have them deck the carb mounting surface? Outer perimeter looks ok. It’s the center section that has me wondering. Pics below. Thoughts?

dmsfrr · 11-07-2021, 08:51 PM

.
Are the intake manifold surfaces that mate to the heads in similar condition?
.

scicala · 11-07-2021, 09:08 PM

The '57 B intake will have slightly larger ports than the '56 heads, but will still work.

Sal

yblock57 · 11-07-2021, 09:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dmsfrr

.
Are the intake manifold surfaces that mate to the heads in similar condition?
.

No, they’re very serviceable

yblock57 · 11-07-2021, 09:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by scicala

The '57 B intake will have slightly larger ports than the '56 heads, but will still work.

Sal

Yeah, that’s right. Just a stock 272 .040 over. Adding ram horn manifolds to get rid of the crossover pipe. Also adding a ‘57 up distributor. Should help wake it up a little bit.

KULTULZ · 11-08-2021, 02:40 AM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

IMO

The mounting pad needs to be surfaced. If you do the inner pad you also have to do the outer pad or it will not seal.

yblock57 · 11-08-2021, 08:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KULTULZ

IMO

The mounting pad needs to be surfaced. If you do the inner pad you also have to do the outer pad or it will not seal.

That’s what I was thinking. Removed the studs in anticipation of that.

Thanks

cb · 11-08-2021, 11:09 AM

That will make a nice combination my buddy did it to his 56 F-100 with a 292, he is using a 500 cfm Edelbrock carb. runs great.

dmsfrr · 11-08-2021, 12:54 PM

.
If your '56 truck has its original Loadomatic distributor don't forget to replace it with a '57+ version.
.

55blacktie · 11-08-2021, 03:40 PM

Yblock57, your machine shop should be able to tell you whether or not the intake manifold needs to be surface. Gasket choice/sealant could make a difference.

Have you selected a carburetor? Although I have a Holley 4150 Street Avenger 570 for my .060 over 292, the Summit 500 and 600 cfm carburetors have gotten good reviews and are cheaper. You can also go to Holley's site and see what they have in factory refurbished carburetors in stock. You might be able to save some money, if they have what you're looking for.

Crankster · 11-08-2021, 03:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 55blacktie

I have a Holley 4150 Street Avenger ...

Has it ever in fact been conclusively established specifically why the streets need "avenging"? Or is it the other way around? There's a couple potholes I could get mad at I'm pretty sure.

Gene F · 11-08-2021, 06:45 PM

I have a Summit street/strip carb on my streetrod, and it is a nice trouble free piece. I did some tuning on it, and now I never touch it.

55blacktie · 11-08-2021, 08:07 PM

Jim Morrison said they're bloody.

yblock57 · 11-08-2021, 08:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dmsfrr

.
If your '56 truck has its original Loadomatic distributor don't forget to replace it with a '57+ version.
.

Yes sir, you are correct. Picked up a ‘57 + strib with the intake as a package deal. In the process of cleaning it up

Weights are sticky and everything needed a good cleaning & lube.

yblock57 · 11-08-2021, 08:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 55blacktie

Yblock57, your machine shop should be able to tell you whether or not the intake manifold needs to be surface. Gasket choice/sealant could make a difference.

Have you selected a carburetor? Although I have a Holley 4150 Street Avenger 570 for my .060 over 292, the Summit 500 and 600 cfm carburetors have gotten good reviews and are cheaper. You can also go to Holley's site and see what they have in factory refurbished carburetors in stock. You might be able to save some money, if they have what you're looking for.

I do not have a carburetor yet and was planning on asking here as part of the research. Thanks for the recommendations.

I’d like to keep the manual choke knob on the dash functional. Can the new carburetors be converted to manual or do they have to be built that way from new?

That also brings up the choke tube in the intake manifold… should I just plug each end with a cap or screw?

miker98038 · 11-08-2021, 09:05 PM

This isn’t directly applicable to your engine, but here’s a link to Ted Eaton’s carb test on one of his engines.

https://www.eatonbalancing.com/2012/...ting-on-the-y/

There’s also been some discussion on the autolite and new summit carbs over at yblocksforever that you might find interesting.

Pretty good looking engine compartment, and about to look better. How about a picture of the whole truck?

yblock57 · 11-08-2021, 09:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by miker98038

This isn’t directly applicable to your engine, but here’s a link to Ted Eaton’s carb test on one of his engines.

https://www.eatonbalancing.com/2012/...ting-on-the-y/

There’s also been some discussion on the autolite and new summit carbs over at yblocksforever that you might find interesting.

Pretty good looking engine compartment, and about to look better. How about a picture of the whole truck?

Appreciate the link. Have a lot of reading in my future.

Truck in question:

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

miker98038 · 11-08-2021, 11:21 PM

That’s a sweet ride. Thanks.

yblock57 · 11-09-2021, 12:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by miker98038

That’s a sweet ride. Thanks.

Thank you, sir [emoji1303]

55blacktie · 11-09-2021, 12:24 AM

Yblock57, that distributor looks pretty rough. Don't you think that nice truck deserves something better?

Ted Eaton recently tested a CRT Performance electronic distributor for Y-blocks. Although they're made in China, he could not fault it. It has a mechanical tach drive for 55-57 Tbirds, but also provisions for hooking up an electric tach. It also has an adjustable vacuum advance. Expect to pay about $250/w free shipping. They may have one without the mechanical tach drive that's even cheaper.

Lots of good stuff can be found at y-blocksforever.com, and Ted is very good about replying to email.

11-07-2021, 08:17 PM	#1
yblock57 Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2020 Location: Round Rock, TX Posts: 128	Y-block ‘B’ intake manifold question Recently picked up a manifold to change out the stock 2v intake on my ‘56 truck to a 4v. Plan is to have it hot tanked first. While it’s at the machine shop, should I have them deck the carb mounting surface? Outer perimeter looks ok. It’s the center section that has me wondering. Pics below. Thoughts? __________________ Kent — Round Rock, TX '56 F-100 \| '56 Crown Vic \| '57 Fairlaine 500 \| '57 Thunderbird

11-07-2021, 08:51 PM	#2
dmsfrr Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Abq, NM Posts: 3,607	Re: Y-block ‘B’ intake manifold question . Are the intake manifold surfaces that mate to the heads in similar condition? . Last edited by dmsfrr; 11-07-2021 at 09:02 PM.

11-07-2021, 09:08 PM	#3
scicala Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Detroit suburb, MI Posts: 3,698	Re: Y-block ‘B’ intake manifold question The '57 B intake will have slightly larger ports than the '56 heads, but will still work. Sal

11-08-2021, 02:40 AM	#6
KULTULZ Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: IN A 'GALAXIE' FAR FAR AWAY Posts: 6,466	Re: Y-block ‘B’ intake manifold question Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) IMO The mounting pad needs to be surfaced. If you do the inner pad you also have to do the outer pad or it will not seal.

11-08-2021, 03:40 PM	#10
55blacktie Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2020 Posts: 441	Re: Y-block ‘B’ intake manifold question Yblock57, your machine shop should be able to tell you whether or not the intake manifold needs to be surface. Gasket choice/sealant could make a difference. Have you selected a carburetor? Although I have a Holley 4150 Street Avenger 570 for my .060 over 292, the Summit 500 and 600 cfm carburetors have gotten good reviews and are cheaper. You can also go to Holley's site and see what they have in factory refurbished carburetors in stock. You might be able to save some money, if they have what you're looking for.

11-08-2021, 06:45 PM	#12
Gene F Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Ohio Posts: 1,958	Re: Y-block ‘B’ intake manifold question I have a Summit street/strip carb on my streetrod, and it is a nice trouble free piece. I did some tuning on it, and now I never touch it.

11-08-2021, 08:07 PM	#13
55blacktie Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2020 Posts: 441	Re: Y-block ‘B’ intake manifold question Jim Morrison said they're bloody.

11-08-2021, 09:05 PM	#16
miker98038 Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Kent, WA. Tucson, AZ Posts: 1,397	Re: Y-block ‘B’ intake manifold question This isn’t directly applicable to your engine, but here’s a link to Ted Eaton’s carb test on one of his engines. https://www.eatonbalancing.com/2012/...ting-on-the-y/ There’s also been some discussion on the autolite and new summit carbs over at yblocksforever that you might find interesting. Pretty good looking engine compartment, and about to look better. How about a picture of the whole truck?

11-08-2021, 11:21 PM	#18
miker98038 Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Kent, WA. Tucson, AZ Posts: 1,397	Re: Y-block ‘B’ intake manifold question That’s a sweet ride. Thanks.

11-09-2021, 12:24 AM	#20
55blacktie Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2020 Posts: 441	Re: Y-block ‘B’ intake manifold question Yblock57, that distributor looks pretty rough. Don't you think that nice truck deserves something better? Ted Eaton recently tested a CRT Performance electronic distributor for Y-blocks. Although they're made in China, he could not fault it. It has a mechanical tach drive for 55-57 Tbirds, but also provisions for hooking up an electric tach. It also has an adjustable vacuum advance. Expect to pay about $250/w free shipping. They may have one without the mechanical tach drive that's even cheaper. Lots of good stuff can be found at y-blocksforever.com, and Ted is very good about replying to email.