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Old 02-19-2019, 04:37 PM   #1
Werner
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Default Adjusting

Good evening!


How do you adjust the track rod / tie rod on the front axle on -1/16"? I tried this with two parallel wool threads running from behind along the rear and front wheels forward. Totally unusable!

Then I made it with two parallel square bars with 60 inches length, which were fixed against the front tire flanks. If I roll the car 40 inches forward after setting it, I unfortunately get quite different values. Too imprecise.

Laser Adjuster are based on the rim edges, which is too inaccurate with the old hunchbacked things.

Who has successful tips?
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Old 02-19-2019, 04:46 PM   #2
Bob C
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Default Re: Adjusting

Marco has some good information on his site. http://www.abarnyard.com/workshop/align.htm


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Old 02-19-2019, 04:56 PM   #3
Mike V. Florida
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Default Re: Adjusting

Search here for toe in and you will see every method ever thought of.
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Old 02-19-2019, 05:28 PM   #4
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Default Re: Adjusting

I jack up each front wheel and scribe a line on the tire, while spinning the wheel. This gives you a true center to measure from. Then just let the car down, with a piece of cardboard under each tire, and measure between the lines, front a back. The cardboard allows the tire to slip easier on the floor.
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Old 02-19-2019, 06:45 PM   #5
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Try a good alignment shop.
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Old 02-19-2019, 07:03 PM   #6
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Default Re: Adjusting

Hello Werner.Look up "Duby gauge" in Google. Then make one from a spring loaded trammel from 2 pieces of steel tubing (from memory mine used 5/8 and 3/4 inch tube) from the hardware store that telescope together. Make and press-in a pointed bung in each tube end to grip the tyre inner sidewalls. Apply at the front, sprung in between the tyres at wishbone height, mark the tubes where they overlap, roll car forwards until the trammel is just under the wishbone, mark again and the toe in is the difference between the marks. Ford specified a height below centre for the measured toe in I think, which is where the wishbone sits. I hung 2 chains on mine for height setting, just like a Duby Gauge. Use split pins through the tubes to retain the spring inside the tubes, set to a suitable tension so it will remain in place as you roll the car forward. Don't take the reading after rolling backwards, since slack in joints and bearings may change it. Repeat the rolling forwards and reading several times after each trial setting of the tie rod for good accuracy.
Quick to make and very accurate. A laser alignment machine showed my settings to be perfect, despite what some detractors may say. That is on several different cars.
SAJ in NZ

Last edited by SAJ; 02-19-2019 at 07:19 PM.
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Old 02-20-2019, 01:09 PM   #7
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I mostly agree with J Franklin in post number 5 . If you choose to do it yourself , loosen the bolts that clamp the tie rod ends to the tie rod . After the tie rod end clamp bolts are loosened , the tie rod can be adjusted with an adjustable pipe wrench . Being as it hasn't been mentioned , the final adjustment should be 1/16 closer togetner at the front than the rear . Toe in at the front helps keep the front wheel travel in a straight line and avoid death wobble . Check out Marcos site for the fine details of this operation .
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Old 02-20-2019, 02:35 PM   #8
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One thing an alignment shop can do is also check the caster, camber, and king pin slop, as well as adjusting the proper toe adjustment. The shop I used even straightened my slightly bent tie rod.
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Old 02-20-2019, 04:41 PM   #9
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Default Re: Adjusting

I weld together a gauge and brace it so it will not move as I use it. It has a fine pointer on each end set such a distance apart that they are both somehwere on the tread of the tyres - anywhere on the tread but at axle height.
I put a piece of masking tape on one tyre and put a fine line vertically on it. I set one pointer on it and put another piece of tape on the other tyre at the other pointer - accurately. Once I am happy with that, I remove the frame and roll the car forward one half of a turn of the wheels. The tape is now at the rear of the tyres. I then slide the frame under the car and check the lines on the tape against the pointers and adjust the tie rod till I get the desired 3mm or so of toe in.
This method means that tyre runout, bent rims etc have no affect on the setting which can be set quite accurately.
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Old 02-20-2019, 04:43 PM   #10
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Default Re: Adjusting

First thing i would do is jack up the car and spin the tires. Be surprised at how many are not true and have a distinct wobble in them.
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Old 02-20-2019, 04:52 PM   #11
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Default Re: Adjusting

Parts supply houses for years have offered pump shafts (the shaft only no impeller) in either "standard" length (done to Ford's original drawing) or "extra length" (done about 1/4 inch longer to compensate for the bridge being worn back in the head.)

Perhaps the supplier of the rebuild pump does "extra" to give everyone a chance to fit their own?

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Old 02-20-2019, 04:57 PM   #12
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I do basically the same as Synchro, except I rotate the tire and scribe a mark on each near the center. If I make a change to the tie rod, I always roll the car rear and then forward to relieve pull on the tires.
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Old 02-20-2019, 04:59 PM   #13
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Default Re: Adjusting

Thank you for the many and very tricky hints. I begin with the chalk line method to see how rude I lie next to it. Then I will refine the measurement effort.



I will report and say thanks you for your help!
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Old 02-20-2019, 11:36 PM   #14
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Default Re: Adjusting

I made my own tow in gauge as follows:
Take a length of 18mm (.75") dia plastic pipe and (2) end caps and glue end caps on each end of pipe. The final length of assembled pipe is to be 25mm - 40mm (1" - 1.5") smaller in length than distance beween inside of front tires. At one end of pipe drill and tap a hole for 6mm or 8mm (.25" or .312") machine screw.
This is how I use gauge to adjust tow in:
1. Mark inside edge of tire at center point of tire from floor at front and rear of tire. Do this on both tires.
2. Hold one end of gauge against rear of marked tire and adjust screw at opposite end until it touches inside surface of tire.
3. Move the gauge to front inside tire marks. If the gauge is too short this means the tires are towing out or if the gauge is too long this means the tires are towing in.
4. Adjust tie rod according to the length of gauge measurement. Repeat measuring steps 2 & 3 and adjusting tie rod until the front inside distance measurement is 3mm (.125") less than the rear distance. This provides the correct tow in setting.
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Old 02-21-2019, 10:15 AM   #15
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Default Re: Adjusting

I made my own rod from a Wallmart shower curtain and stick on tape from Hobby Lobby.

This is what I do.

Loosen tie rod bolts (9/16) on the left and right side of the tie rods.

First, take the front tire measurement with shower rod. Front measurement must be 1/16 less than rear measurement. Thus, this will cause the toe in. / \

Second, pull the car forward so the rod will automatically be placed on the rear part of the tire when you push the car back. Read the tape and see what the toe in-out is.

Make adjustments while rod is still positioned on the rear of the tire. Adjustment is done by clamping vise grip on tie rod and turning tie rod, either clockwise or counterclockwise. The turn is dependent if you need to adjust in or out. While turning tie rod you will see the shower rod moving on the scale on the shower rod.

Do not make adjustments by turning spindles at end of tie rods, only the tie rods. On the right side tie rod turning the vice grip clockwise will decrease the measurement.
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Old 02-21-2019, 11:47 AM   #16
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Default Re: Adjusting

Old31 is the way I do it also. Check You Tube there are a couple of guys who have posted how they do the adjustment.
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Old 02-21-2019, 12:13 PM   #17
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Default Re: Adjusting

[QUOTE=zzlegend;1728963]First thing i would do is jack up the car and spin the tires. Be surprised at how many are not true and have a distinct wobble in them.[/QUOTE


Its good to see you back . ZZ !!!
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Old 02-21-2019, 12:47 PM   #18
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Hello Purdy. Hope all is well with you my friend.
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Old 02-21-2019, 03:17 PM   #19
Werner
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Default Re: Adjusting

Quote:
First thing i would do is jack up the car and spin the tires. Be surprised at how many are not true and have a distinct wobble in them
That's right! Therefore I turn after the first measurement the wheels 1/2 turn forward. One more measurement. Then I take the middle from both measurements.
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Old 02-21-2019, 03:34 PM   #20
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Default Re: Adjusting

Werner, what does "take the middle" mean? The "difference" in the two numbers is the toe-in - one number minus the other.
And measuring at exactly the same point on the tyres in front and behind the axle by rolling forward eliminates any wheel or tyre wobble.
The spring loaded shower rail is a clever idea too, but I find a pointed end grips the tyre where a rubber bung can fall off as you roll forward. But maybe shower rails have a stronger spring than I used.
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Old 02-21-2019, 05:59 PM   #21
Werner
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Default Re: Adjusting

I thought that I measure twice front and back of the wheel, after a half wheel turn again. Then I'll take the middle value. To compensate for side impact (lurching) of the rim.
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Honda CB 450 K 1, 1968
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Old 02-21-2019, 07:08 PM   #22
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Default Re: Adjusting

It used to be said "win on sunday, sell on monday" racing was ingenious years ago.

In my travels around the garage areas I spied a simple alignment tool consisting of a couple pieces of tubing and some string. By attaching to the car you can lift the car, make a change and then settle it and measure again.

John
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Old 03-09-2019, 04:21 PM   #23
Werner
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Default Re: Adjusting

Hello everybody.



Setting the track does not work properly. The rims wheels both have a bit of side impact. Not much, but still I can not set exactly enough with the built gage described above.

Does anyone know "Trakrite"? That actually reads logically. But only works if I drive 100 % straight over the plate. And I'm afraid that there too fast 1/10 "can be wrong ....



Does anyone have experience with it?
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Old 03-11-2019, 05:38 AM   #24
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Werner, if you fix a tool such as the one I described, or a Duby Gauge or one made from a shower curtain rail between the tyres at the correct height and then roll the car forward without moving the tool from the tyres, any bend or wobble in either wheel remains the same and does not affect the toe in measurement. You leave the tool held between the tyres by the spring and points on its ends and as you roll the car forward it moves downwards then backwards and upwards to just below the wishbone. This is where you look to see how much the tubes have extended (got longer)explanation and this distance is your toe in. There is no averaging or calculation. Just the gap between the marks you make where the tubes meet in front and then behind the axle.
SAJ in NZ

Last edited by SAJ; 03-11-2019 at 06:04 AM. Reason: Said compressed when it should be extended
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Old 03-11-2019, 03:59 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by denniskliesen View Post
I do basically the same as Synchro, except I rotate the tire and scribe a mark on each near the center. If I make a change to the tie rod, I always roll the car rear and then forward to relieve pull on the tires.
This is the method I was taught in Automotive school years ago. And very nice setup, by the way. It is very accurate. Having said that, the guage between the tires is as well, as long as the guage isn't moved. The distance realitive to the other wheel is the key..
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Old 03-11-2019, 04:43 PM   #26
Werner
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Only now I have understood that correctly! I'll report if I did it right.



Thanks twice, SAJ!
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