37 engine removal and chatter rods

[Mark's 37]

I'm about to lift the V8 out the 37. Do the chatter rods need to be removed completely or can I slide the engine off the rods with the nuts removed from the bellhousing? These rods have a square socket bolt at the frame which I don't have. Thanks.

[billwill]

It will easier to reinstall with them removedBitter Luck

[Floyd]

I am thinking it would be easier to loosen/ remove them since you have to lift up on the front of the engine to clear the crossmember. If you did not remove them, you could brute force flex them slightly on removal of the engine, but what are you going to do when you put it back in? I am not sure of the square socket size, but Harbor Freight (calm down guys) has a set of drain plug sockets , square and hex that comes in handy for a lot of things. Otherwise you can grind a socket adapter to the size that fits. I would remove the rods, makes things much easier. My opinion
Others will know more.

[Mark's 37]

Here is a pic of the rod attachment at the frame. It is always the little crap that gets in the way. Summit delivers here overnight using regular shipping. If they have the sockets may be my last resort. Harbor Frt is too far away from me.

[Shu47]

I don't know anything about the 37 and removing the chatter rods but I have frequently found that these square socket type bolts are 1/2 inch so you might see if your 1/2 inch drive ratchet will fit if you have one.

[19Fordy]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Mark, Best if you can remove the anti-chatter rods. You can grind down a 3/8 in. socket extension to fit those square holes. That worked for me.

[Mark's 37]

Got lucky again! Yep...I have been up against this in the past. The square is between a 3/8" drive and 1/4" drive ratchet extension. The Snap-On large screwdriver blade fits into two points on the square and has a 1/2" wrench fitting at the top of the shank. The penetrating oil worked and was able to carefully turn it holding the screwdriver in place with an end wrench. Soaking the other side now. If it was truly frozen/rusted in place this wouldn't have worked.

[JM 35 Sedan]

I have had good success getting those chatter rod bolts out after allowing some penitrating oil to work on those threads a day or two, making a socket wrench extension that fits the square hole properly, and attaching that to a hand held impact driver. A few good wacks with a large hammer should get them started out. I did have one that I could not get out using the above method, and had to resort to heat, but it did finally come out.

[TonyM]

Remove the chatter rods. I made my own tool to fit the hole.

[Mark's 37]

John, the impact driver method sounds good. I have a set so if the second rod gives me grief will try that. Thanks.

[V8COOPMAN]

It's just TOO easy to take an extra extension and grind it to the exact, snug-fit size. DD

[Mark's 37]

Originally Posted by V8COOPMAN

It's just TOO easy to take an extra extension and grind it to the exact, snug-fit size. DD

I may have to do that but need to get an "extra" extension. Thanks.

[TonyM]

Originally Posted by Mark's 37

I may have to do that but need to get an "extra" extension. Thanks.

You can take a good bolt and grind it to exact size--that is what I did.

[19Fordy]

Mark, Be sure and use anti-seize compound when re-installing those bolts.

[Mark's 37]

Originally Posted by 19Fordy

Mark, Be sure and use anti-seize compound when re-installing those bolts.

Will do. Made a goal of no broken bolts or studs doing this. Lost one stud on the left side exhaust manifold flange but no others yet. Should have the engine out and on a stand tomorrow.

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by TonyM

You can take a good bolt and grind it to exact size--that is what I did.

Duh..........That's even way-more-better than my dumb idea......good one! DD

[Karl Wolf]

I used the butt end of an easy out and a cresent wrench, on a pair of real stubborn rods. No grinding.

Karl