Block and Head Crack Repair in FW Area

[gogrannygo]

1928 Tudor - just got bad news from mechanic. He was going to bore the block for new pistons, and found a crack in the exhaust port in the block back towards the cylinder and one in the head from the water jacket hole to the head bolt hole. Anyone know where we can get it repaired around Fort Worth? Any idea on what the cost should be? He said it should be no problem to repair since it is small at this point. Appreciate your help. GGG

[Tom Wesenberg]

If it's a stock head, now would be a good time to install a 5.5 head. Cracks in the head by the oval center hole are common and usually don't need to be fixed to be used.

[gogrannygo]

What will the 5.5 head (high compression I assume), do for us? We're trying to learn as we go, so some of this is a little over our heads. The head on it looks like it is an original on the car and doesn't look like it's ever been bored. Are you saying we could just go ahead and bore the block for the .040 pistons and just leave the cracks? It's not going to be driven but around in our area - no long driving.

[Mike V. Florida]

Greater top speed, lower operating temperatures, greater MPG are a few advantages. If you were to do a search you will find several threads on the topic.

As for the block, is it numbers matching to the frame and title? Yes get it stiched, no get another block. JMHO

[Tom Wesenberg]

Can you post pictures of the bottom of the head and the cracks? The 5.5 head gives some easy extra horsepower for not too much money, and it still looks stock. How much does the shop want to fix your head, which is crack repair and milling? For the little extra money, a new 5.5 head might be worth it, even if you are only doing local drives.

[gogrannygo]

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Haven't gotten a price for stitching and milling. Will be Monday before I can check with them. Haven't had a chance to check the numbers to see if they match the frame and title. Will be Tuesday or Wednesday before I can do that. The car is at our daughter's and the block/head/crank at our house. We're learning on her car. I think we have decided to go with the 5.5 head if it is anywhere close to the price of repair.

[George Miller]

Just my two cents after many Model A,s for the last 50 years. Do not waist your money on fixing the old head. The new 5.5 head is a big improve meant over the old head.The block will have to be fixed.

[Kurt in NJ]

The head on my car has a crack from water passage to head stud by dist ---hasn't been a problem in the 45 years I have been driving it ---I did drill. tap for small machine screw, then cut it off slightly above, peined with hammer, then surfaced with a file to interrupt the little valley ---the worst that will happen is the stud could get coolant around it, perhaps leak some out of the nut

[Nathan_1929]

A couple years ago, I had a pair of blocks and a pair of heads all fixed up using the pin method and welding. I had this shop in Illinois (sorry, not Texas) that specializes in these types of repairs do this, and the cost per item was very reasonable; all the work done was less than the cost of the high compression head I just looked up on Snyders.

Just something to consider, if you end up finding a shop local to you.