More Chatter on Clutch-Chatter

[TonyM]

My 1937 Ford 85hp was giving me some clutch chatter. I used the excellent search feature here on FordBarn and looked up the threads. I checked the Anti Chatter Rods, or as Ford calls them -- Engine radius rods. The first one I checked was loose, real loose. It turns out that the left chatter rod was not even connected to the frame. I removed the chatter rod after I could not get the end to line up with the hole. The flat head square hole bolt was just resting in the frame hole. One good bump and it could have been gone forever.

I soon discovered that the chatter rod was bent. I looked up the chatter rods in my EFV-8 1937 Ford Book. The book says that the chatter rod should be straight. I straightened out the chatter rod and it fit perfect. The problem was the flat head bolt/screw with the square hole. I did not have anything that would fit it and the clearance between the frame and the floor was about 1.5 inches. A tight squeeze. I took a No. 8 bolt and cut it off and squared off the end for use as a lug on the square head bolt. After 3.5 hours the anti chatter rod was installed and tight. Wow.

I did lubricate the clutch release shaft. I didn't know any better and I greased it until stuff was coming out the sides, so I thought maybe I might have fouled the clutch with grease. In one of the posts a FordBarn guy said that if that happens the Ford owner should put the car up against a tree, put the car in high gear, give it some rpms and slowly let out the clutch to burn off the grease.

Now my question: Is there any technique involved in this? How many times should it be done? Should the clutch be let out all the way or just a little bit? How much time should it take to burn off the grease? Any help with this would be appreciated.

[Bassman/NZ]

Until you push the tree over?

[Zeke...PA]

I don't think that's a good idea, your suppose to slip the clutch and produce heat, it can heat check the pressure plate and loose spring tension in the pressure plate. IMO, Zeke

[4t8v8]

The only solution to oil or grease on the clutch is a new disc. I've heard of the quick fixes but have never seen one work. After I installed my T5 my rear main seal let go and oil got on the plate. Long sad story shortened: I bought a new disc.

[1931 flamingo]

IF you think you've got a contaminated disc (I don't think you do), you could remove the trans insp plate and spray brake cleaner against/onto f/wheel/disc area liberally. FWIW
Paul in CT
If not slipping I wouldn't worry about it until it does.

[Kahuna]

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X 2 for 1931 Flamingo

[TonyM]

Originally Posted by 1931 flamingo

IF you think you've got a contaminated disc (I don't think you do), you could remove the trans insp plate and spray brake cleaner against/onto f/wheel/disc area liberally. FWIW
Paul in CT
If not slipping I wouldn't worry about it until it does.

thanks all.

Flamingo, you are probably right that I did not foul the disc. I didn't even think about it until I read the lube info in my Ford reference books that says not to over lube the clutch release shaft. I then was second guessing my lube job. I need to take the car out for a ride after I get the wheels back on and get the car back on the ground, then I can see where I am at. Thanks all for the help. Tony






Helpful:



Van Pelt Quote:

Do the clutch test....engine idling, trans in neutral, clutch pedal up. Push clutch all the way to the floorboard and count to 20 slowly. Then carefully try to shift into first gear. If you get ANY gear crunch, the clutch is not adjusted correctly and is still spinning the trans gears.



Adjust the clutch so that you have 1 to 1-1/2" of free play at the top of the clutch travel. Then repeat the test. If all is correct, when you adjust and do the clutch test, it should improve the shifting problem.