recovering original paint restoration 1933

[FrankWest]

I am looking into the best ways to restore my original paint on the 1933
Duncan Blue Sedan. The car was repainted 20 years ago by "Eard Schibb?" because the paint is pealing in 5 or 6 places and you can see the beautiful original enamel paint below. I know ir would be a tedious and very slow project akin to restoring old art work but I am in no hurry.

My preliminary research has revealed the The following methods have been used on this type of project.
1) Power washing can blast away a poorly done paint job.
2) Very mild "environmental safe type" paint strippers
3) Easy off oven cleaner in the yellow can
4) para-xylene..removes one acrylic layer of paintings
http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases...1027103107.htm


I remember using paint strippers on woodwork and it seemed that each application removed basically ONE old paint layer..and you had to add another coating of stripper to remove the next layer. This is the kind of approach i have in mind.

Also the original layer is Enamel and has been there for over 80 years.
The repaint is most likely not as strong as the original and I am not sure what typical cheap paint jobs used 20-30 years ago but it is peeling and there may be a solvant or stripper that would only attach the cheap paint??

I am not looking for perfection in this project but would like to expose the original paint.
Any experience would be greatly appreciated

[Vanspeed]

I think the name you are looking for is Earl Scheib, compatible to today's maaco.

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by Vanspeed

I think the name you are looking for is Earl Scheib, compatible to today's maaco.

he would paint any car for $29.95

[Scott H in Wheaton]

I hope with all the work you have ahead you discover some nice original paint.
The skeptic in me keeps thinking they must have repainted it for a reason, hope you don't discover the reason!

Older Earl Scheib was the cheapest fastest paintjob you could get. They used to have a limited number of colors that were purchased by them in 55 gallon drums. Later they switched to a more modern paint mixing system and would paint "any car, any color" for $59.95 or some such ridiculous price. But the paint itself was still very cheap stuff.

Maaco is an assembly line type of body shop that does quick work compared to most, but they at least use some decent paint material.

[FrankWest]

Any idea what type paint, so I can find a solvent for the paint, was used by cheap auto painters 20-30 years ago?

[FrankWest]

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Originally Posted by Scott H in Wheaton

I hope with all the work you have ahead you discover some nice original paint.
The skeptic in me keeps thinking they must have repainted it for a reason, hope you don't discover the reason!

Older Earl Scheib was the cheapest fastest paintjob you could get. They used to have a limited number of colors that were purchased by them in 55 gallon drums. Later they switched to a more modern paint mixing system and would paint "any car, any color" for $59.95 or some such ridiculous price. But the paint itself was still very cheap stuff.

Maaco is an assembly line type of body shop that does quick work compared to most, but they at least use some decent paint material.

I realize that they had it painted for a reason, perhaps exposed metal and rust in several areas...but I will take that chance..
The paint as it stands is pealing all around the car body and running boards and other places..It seems that where ever there is a curved surface the original paint is peeking through? Perhaps there was no sanding and prep or very little in flat surfaces areas only.

[51 MERC-CT]

Back when I was doing body work for a living we used to do two tone new car roofs for dealerships.
The process required no sanding but the painted surface was coated with something called XIM to provide a bond for the color coat.
I suspect that Earl Scheib did the same.
I would try wetting a cloth with lacquer thinner or acetone and laying it on the surface to see if it has any crinkling effect on the top coat.

[john worden]

Blow as much off as possible with compressed air first. Stripper is to risky. Test the paint with some lacquer thinner. Or try careful wet sanding with no coarser than 600. Luck.

[G.M.]

I doubt that Earl Scheib used lacquer. They used enamel and if done 20 years ago it most likely had a hardener in it. Don't put any kind of solvent on a part that you can see. Take very fine compound or cleaner and if the surface is not faded you should not get much color on the rag when lightly rubbed. G.M.

[FrankWest]

Here are some more photos of the car.
At least I want to try to clean up the areas that are pealing...I had planned to repain those areas but now I will just try to remove the pealing paint from those areas.
Attached are some photos of the car. Included some interior shots to show the original interior, and from the picture of the full car you can see it looks pretty good although repainted.

[David J]

Here's one way that worked . Post's 28 , 46 , 49 and 54 . If your paint is thick CAREFUL scraping should work also . I do mean CAREFUL and this is not a rush job . Do it a segment at a time and good luck . ADDING after looking your car over better I would start with compressed air and or high pressure water as that may take advantage of the thick and obviously not well adhering overcoat . I found no old bodywork or rust other than the little obvious stuff in the rocker centers . NICE CAR !!!!!!!!!!!!


https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showth...t=marts&page=2

[GB SISSON]

An Earl Scheib job on that car..... Oh, the humanity!

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by David J

Here's one way that worked . Post's 28 , 46 , 49 and 54 . If your paint is thick CAREFUL scraping should work also . I do mean CAREFUL and this is not a rush job . Do it a segment at a time and good luck . ADDING after looking your car over better I would start with compressed air and or high pressure water as that may take advantage of the thick and obviously not well adhering overcoat . I found no old bodywork or rust other than the little obvious stuff in the rocker centers . NICE CAR !!!!!!!!!!!!


https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showth...t=marts&page=2

How do I find the posts 28, 46, 49, 54?

[V12Bill]

I would start with compressed air and see how that works. Then I would follow up with a garden hose with a nozzle that concentrates the pressure in a small spot. Years ago, Ford cars had a plastic coating on the inside of the windshields. When a car went through state inspection, the inspectors would scrape off the old sticker and also the plastic coating. Someone came out with a plastic single edge razor blade that would scrape off the sticker and not the plastic coating. I once used one of these blades to scrape off highway paint on the side of a late model car and not scratch the paint underneith. Try a auto body supply store to find the blades if still available. Under no circumstances would I use paint remover or solvent to remove the repaint from the original paint. You will remove the original paint in many places.

[TJ]

Do not use any type of paint stripper! the compressed air idea and a pressure nozzle on a garden hose are the best ideas. Also you can get plastic paint scrapers at Harbor Freight or your local paint store. Take your time and it will eventually come off. Let it set out in the sun and that may help when you use the scraper. The heat may help lift the paint.

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by FrankWest

How do I find the posts 28, 46, 49, 54?

The numbers are in the upper right of each post, on the gray bar. For example, this post is #16.

[DavidG]

First, though, you click on the thread included in DavidJ's note at the bottom.

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by DavidG

First, though, you click on the thread included in DavidJ's note at the bottom.

Assumed that was obvious, but maybe not!!

[FrankWest]

Either the repaint was so cheaply done with the incorrect color...It is too light for the Duncan Blue original underneath, or it faded in the sun.. The original underneath is very rich dark color with a nice finish..

Took some off with rounded wooden toothpick. Maybe if I could apply a substance to the exposed areas....Something that would seep into the paint boundaries and loosen it, Water....or something stronger...but not stripper..something that would soak underneath the exposed paint boundary to cause peeling????"

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by JSeery

Assumed that was obvious, but maybe not!!

sorry, but now I found the posts..Did not know my way around the forum.