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Old 09-19-2019, 02:21 PM   #1
bavArian
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Default Dipstick level

Hello fellow A-ers,

as this is my first post, I'd like to introduce myself first.
My name's Daniel, 29 years old, I'm from Germany (yes, from Bavaria) and I've been fascinated with cars for as long as I can remember. So naturally, cars became one of my hobbies back when I got my license.
A few years ago, I started going to classic car meets with my dad, and about 2 or 3 years ago I started searching for the right classic car.
At first, I wanted a typical european 50s or 60s car, something like a Fiat 850 Coupe, an old Lancia or even a Citroen Traction Avant. But one day I saw an old pre-war car on one of those vintage car meets. It was awesome! The next few weeks I started reading on old pre-war cars, their quirks and faults, and which one can be driven without being a millionaire or having to search a year for a spare part in case something breaks.
Naturally, I ended up reading a lot about the T and A, but with the T's top speed of 60 km/h it didn't seem quite "enjoyable" on german roads. We're quite densely populated over here and the small scale war on our roads doesn't tend to get better, only worse. So driving in a car that's a good portion slower than semis and white vans probably isn't the brightest idea, at least if you want to actually do some touring with it.
About a year later, I still had that weird idea of buying an antique, so I began searching for cars in my area with "normal" pricetags. A real good A roadster is upwards of 25 grand over here, and even a Tudor in medium condition is almost 20 k€. A price I just didn't want to spend as I already have 2 hobby-cars and a daily driver.
Fast forward to fall last year, I found a 1928 roadster with an "older" paintjob and quite some patina, but with solid substance and without much rust as well as a running motor.
Over the winter I began searching for what had to be repaired and began ordering parts, since April I've been repairing it when I had time and was in the mood to do work on it. I'm almost ready now and in the process of getting it licensed.

And in case someone is even reading at this point, I now have the first question I didn't find an answer to in the Les Andrews books or the internet: My dipstick has an F and an L mark on the backside, they're at 16,5 cm (6,5 inch) and 19,5 cm (7,7 inch) from the end of the rounded part respectively. A while ago I found different measurements, I think it was in this forum. Are these the correct markings for the oil level?
If they are, I guess the oil level should be around 3/4 full? On my other cars I usually have the oil level in the middle between low and high, but they're all 90s and 00's cars, so that's a totally different world. I'd assume that with the lubrication system of the A I'd want as much oil in the pan as it can hold without throwing it out of the filler pipe.
Looking forward to your replies.


Have a nice day,


Daniel
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Old 09-19-2019, 02:31 PM   #2
fastroadster
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Default Re: Dipstick level

How I do it on all the cars I've had over the years is fill you crankcase with oil, check dipstick. Mark with file the full mark. Drain out one quart and mark you dipstick again for the add mark. Might seem backyard way..... but thats me.
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Old 09-19-2019, 02:32 PM   #3
fastroadster
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Default Re: Dipstick level

or just reverse.... fill crankcase without that extra quart mark, then fill all the way and mark again. Hahhahah Good luck
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Old 09-19-2019, 02:46 PM   #4
Patrick L.
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Default Re: Dipstick level

Oil level is really subjective. It depends on the condition of the oilman, how much sludge is in it.

A normal oil change takes 4-4.5 qts. So you put in 3-3.5 its on the next oil change and mark the stick with a file notch. Add another qt and mark the stick again.

These engines only take 5 qts when the pan is removed and the dipper tray emptied and cleaned.
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Old 09-19-2019, 03:04 PM   #5
Werner
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Default Re: Dipstick level

Hallo Daniel,


ich halte meinen Motorölstand auf der Mitte der Ölmeßstab-Markierungen. Dies entspricht nach dem Ablassen einer Nachfüllmenge von 3 Liter.


Grüße ins Bajuwarenland vom Nordeifelrand,
Werner
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Old 09-19-2019, 11:11 PM   #6
bavArian
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Default Re: Dipstick level

Hi everyone,


I know how much oil is supposed to be in the crankcase, but when I got the car, it was in a bad state and not licensed. I guess the previous owner probably neglected the fluids too, therefore I have no idea how much sludge and dirt is in the pan. (or everywhere else)
I didn't really want to drop the pan this year, I was planning on doing this as well as cleaning the valve chamber next year.


@Werner:
Servus, kannst du mir bitte mal den Ölmessstab in der Länge abmessen? Sieht von den Proportionen her ähnlich aus wie meiner, ich poste Nachmittag mal Bilder des Stabs.


I'll post pics of the dipstick in the afternoon, maybe it's one of the standard reproparts and I'm worrying for nothing.


Thanks everyone,


Daniel
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Old 09-20-2019, 05:29 AM   #7
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Default Re: Dipstick level

How nasty did the oil look when you drained it? Was it flowing or like syrup? If it was extremely "nasty" looking and smelling I would look at dropping the pan.
If your not going to drop the pan for a deep cleaning and the drained oil was just old, not like syrup I would just fill it to the "F" mark and drive it. If you overfill these babies they will leave a puddle until the level gets down closer to where it needs to be. Most of them drip even when the oil level is correct. They will run fine "between the marks". Just check the level often.
Welcome aboard and remember, "Enjoy the adventure"... Chap
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Old 09-20-2019, 07:24 AM   #8
Werner
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Default Re: Dipstick level

Ausgelitert.
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Honda CB 450 K 1, 1968
Hercules Wankel Rotary Engine, 1976 (Canadian version)
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Old 09-20-2019, 08:37 AM   #9
bavArian
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Default Re: Dipstick level

Quote:
Originally Posted by Werner View Post
Ausgelitert.
Top, vielen Dank. Mine looks to be identical, and the marks are roughly at the same spot.


Quote:
Originally Posted by chap52 View Post
How nasty did the oil look when you drained it? Was it flowing or like syrup? If it was extremely "nasty" looking and smelling I would look at dropping the pan.
I haven't drain the oil yet, but it looks relatively fine. Very dark, but not too thick and the oil on the dipstick aswell as the coolant are clean. Never the less I already bougt some 15W40 SJ mineral oil, it's dirt-cheap compared to the higher-spec oil I run in my modern cars.
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Old 09-20-2019, 10:57 AM   #10
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Default Re: Dipstick level

Daniel, BEAUTIFUL Roadster I love it! Welcome and you will find a lot of good advice here.

I put back in 4 and a half quarts after I drain the old oil as the old timers told me years ago that half a quart stays in the dipper pan, they told me to put in 5 quarts if you had taken that tray out and needed to refill to proper levels. 5 quarts will show a bit above the 'F' mark. Usually a Model A will leak out a bit of excess oil until it finds it's 'sweet spot'. That was always my experience.

Have fun touring in Bavaria with your Roadster! That is some of the most beautiful country in the world. I love going there when I am in Germany. I have family in the Rhineland-Palatinate area and Bavaria is just a short 'hop' to the east. They told me the Zweibrucken region at one point was part of Bavaria.

Take care!

Jeff
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Old 09-20-2019, 01:27 PM   #11
Werner
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Default Re: Dipstick level

Daniel, mache vor dem Ölwechsel eine Motorspülung/-reinigung von Liqui Moly + 1 Tankfüllung mit deren "Ventil-Sauber".


Nur "Ultimate 102" ist ohne Alkoholzusatz.
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Ford Model A Roadster, 1928
Citroen 11 CV, 1947
Honda CB 450 K 1, 1968
Hercules Wankel Rotary Engine, 1976 (Canadian version)
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Old 09-20-2019, 02:30 PM   #12
bavArian
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Default Re: Dipstick level

I know, Werner. I'm thinking about completely emptying tank and carb and leaving the fuel cap open through the winter. The car is standing in a small, unheated single garage, but I think I could get problems with condensation. Maybe I'll just empty it and fill it up with 0% ethanol fuel or use a fuel stabilizer.


Aren't the motorcleaner products we can buy too agressive for these old motors?
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Old 09-20-2019, 03:28 PM   #13
Werner
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Default Re: Dipstick level

Tach Daniel,


used properly, these concentrated additives are worth gold! I have even made the LM motor flush on our Roadster twice in a row and am amazed what came out of the oil sump for a noir porridge.

It is better to fill the tank to the brim and with 1% 2-stroke oil. Even better is "Marvel's Mystery Oil", in Germany not easy to buy and therefore expensive to get it.

I know that the relevant "Für und Wieder" are discussed differently and infinitely. But I was Key Account Manager from the lubricant industry. More than 10 years with the Traction.



And between us said: I drive in the Citroen 11 CV as well as in the A Roadster Synthetic Oil + above additives.



Wo wohnst Du in Bavaria?
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Beste Gruesse aus Deutschland,
Werner


Ford Model A Roadster, 1928
Citroen 11 CV, 1947
Honda CB 450 K 1, 1968
Hercules Wankel Rotary Engine, 1976 (Canadian version)
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Old 09-20-2019, 04:31 PM   #14
bavArian
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Default Re: Dipstick level

Quote:
Originally Posted by Werner View Post
It is better to fill the tank to the brim and with 1% 2-stroke oil. Even better is "Marvel's Mystery Oil", in Germany not easy to buy and therefore expensive to get it.



I plan to use a standard "Obenöl" (can't find the english name for it, basically 2-stroke-oil for normal 4-stroke engines) in the Ford, I already read about it but is MMO really so much better?
For the oil I need a ZDDP additive anyway, as the LM 15W40 Formula "only" has 1000 ppm ZDDP, another 300 to 400 ppm wouldn't hurt.
Did you flush the motor while it ran or did you use the crank?
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Old 09-20-2019, 05:51 PM   #15
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Default Re: Dipstick level

Quote:
Originally Posted by bavArian View Post
I know, Werner. I'm thinking about completely emptying tank and carb and leaving the fuel cap open through the winter. The car is standing in a small, unheated single garage, but I think I could get problems with condensation. Maybe I'll just empty it and fill it up with 0% ethanol fuel or use a fuel stabilizer.


Aren't the motorcleaner products we can buy too agressive for these old motors?
I had for only 1 Massachusetts winter my Tudor 1929. The car spent 3 months inside the barn. It is big barn. 3 cars can fit
Inside it. Barn was unheated . In January - February exterior temperatures are between -11C to - 20.. I drove the car for the first time the 1st week of January with -11 C that weekend. Then went for hibernation with the tank 3/4 full. Car has always anti-freeze in the radiator. Also in summer.

Every 3-4 weeks I visited him and started the engine. Always started right away. I had it working for, let say, half an hour. Then off and return to my house walking through the snow.

When spring came and the snow was melted the Tudor saw the sun again.

The 2 previous owners, from Massachusetts too, never told me to add anything to the gas (summer/winter) beside MMO oil.

I hope this helps.
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