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10-10-2014, 08:09 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Tonopah, NV.
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Question about 1938 Temp Gauge
So I read up on using the capillary tube from a donor gauge, putting it in ice slurry with salt to keep the ether in the bulb, blah blah blah and figured I could accomplish the surgery, but after taking my old gauge out, I don't see any red goo inside the glass tube anymore. This car spent some extremely warm years in a garage in Hemet California. Did the red goop dry up, or escape as vapor? Am I wasting my time on this particular gauge? Good images below.
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He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep, to gain what he cannot lose... Jim Elliott, 1949 http://tonopahpictures.0catch.com |
10-10-2014, 08:12 PM | #2 |
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Location: Southern France
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Re: Question about 1938 Temp Gauge
Wasting your time.Line has been cut.A NOS one is listed in the for sale section by member, gkgeiger.
Last edited by deuce lover; 10-10-2014 at 08:18 PM. |
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10-10-2014, 08:28 PM | #3 |
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Location: Tonopah, NV.
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Re: Question about 1938 Temp Gauge
So on these type, once the line has been cut it's dead? You can't solder on a capillary from another gauge?
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He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep, to gain what he cannot lose... Jim Elliott, 1949 http://tonopahpictures.0catch.com |
10-10-2014, 08:43 PM | #4 |
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Location: Southern France
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Re: Question about 1938 Temp Gauge
Yes when cut its dead.Williamson's in AR was redoing them and they used to charge $1.75 an inch or something like that so you are better off with a NOS.In recent years the lines that have been repaired and charged - the red dye fades out.That red dye is now outlawed.The repo's sold by the vendors are made in Argentina.The glass tube is slightly smaller in dia and over time the red fades out also.The Temperature Gauge Guy in VT used to redo them but figure at least $250.The Early Ford Store in San Dimas,CA might have a NOS and if so will be over $300.
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10-11-2014, 01:48 AM | #5 |
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Re: Question about 1938 Temp Gauge
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