Overheating and fed up....

[GB SISSON]

Going to re-torque my heads tomorrow after work after all this. It's run about a 1/2 hour.

[Mike..Yorba Linda]

No, never had the heads off. I'm too busy to do the tests Skip has recommended but I want to try the simple things first to eliminate possible problems. I love the flathead and all its gutless power.....

[1948F-1Pickup]

With the exception of my last 2 years with an 8BA, the majority of my 40 years experience in dealing with engines has been with conventional overhead valve stuff. You can have combustion gasses having a significant effect on the water jacket temperature from a head gasket malfunction and not be able to tell other than with a block tester.
Barring something obvious, like a jacked-up radiator, that's where I'd be looking.

[Seth Swoboda]

Originally Posted by GB SISSON

Going to re-torque my heads tomorrow after work after all this. It's run about a 1/2 hour.

This is very important. More so for those running aluminum heads. Check your head torque values often.

[Mike..Yorba Linda]

I think you're right on the combustion gasses. What leads me to this is it came on all of a sudden and my system with the new radiator and flushing I did is very clean. I'll do the test just to make sure....

[Lime1GT]

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Originally Posted by willowbilly3

Were you running without thermostats 2 years ago when it was cool? Just curious. I know some flatheads run best that way but over the years, on other engines, I have seen the water circulate too fast to cool without them. Just my opinion, but if everything is right, you shouldn't have to run without them. To me it's akin to putting cardboard in front for winter, a bandaid.
Anyway, you have a lot of good suggestions here. I'd check the timing and look for bubbles first, cause that's easy.

I agree with willowbilly. 180 thermostats should slow the coolant flow somewhat and allow the coolant to absorb more heat from the engine parts. The engine should run more consistent with less temp gauge fluctuations.

I would also pressure check the radiator cap to make sure it holds it's rated pressure. If it fails, coolant over-heat may occur. Antifreeze strength should be checked for 50/50 mix or -35F. If the strength is too high, heat transfer will be impeded raising engine temp. Water shouldn't be used alone as it has no water pump conditioners and antifreeze acts as a form of water-wetter to draw heat to the coolant.

[Mike..Yorba Linda]

We don't need thermostats here in SoCal. It ran great without them and I don't think adding them will make a difference. It's more likely, as suggested by other HAMB'rs, combustion gasses as it overheated all of a sudden, it never did that before so that leads me to believe a head gasket blew or something similar. That makes sense to me. The first test I will do is to see if water flows through each side unimpeded and go from there. My guess is I will pull the heads off to fix it.......I appreciate all who made suggestions and will report my findings. Viva La HAMB!

[JSeery]

Matter of prospective, some of us believe all engines need thermostats. (and others don't, LOL) Many advantages to running an engine at a higher temperature.

[B-O-B]

Mike;
Drain some water from the radiator if you run anti-freeze, if just water don't worry about it. Remove fan belt from water pumps & remove the radiator hoses from the heads. Start engine & look for bubbles in the water.

[Mike..Yorba Linda]

JSeery, you're right, it's up to the end user to decide. B-O-B, I will try that, it's a good idea without the pumps pumping and looking in the top tank.....Thanks guys!

[Kurt in NJ]

Originally Posted by B-O-B

Mike;
Drain some water from the radiator if you run anti-freeze, if just water don't worry about it. Remove fan belt from water pumps & remove the radiator hoses from the heads. Start engine & look for bubbles in the water.

This is whai I would do, but I would start by cranking with the ignition off for 5-10 seconds, I doubt that it is both sides with the problem---if one side pushes some water and bubbles start with that side

[19Fordy]

I didn't read all this thread but, are your thermostats opening completely?
Are the radiator hoses collapsing?

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by 19Fordy

I didn't read all this thread but, are your thermostats opening completely?
Are the radiator hoses collapsing?

He doesn't run thermostats.

[Mike..Yorba Linda]

Right, no stats and new hoses.....Ford script for the purists I'm anxious to get started with all your ideas to check. I very much appreciate all who gave suggestions of what to look for/do. Kind of busy with work stuff but should be another week......

[wga]

Mike -- had the same problem, went to a couple of shops and they used the exhaust gas sniffer right at the radiator neck. The readings were over 30PPM. Removed the heads,
surfaced, Best head gaskets, redid the readings twice and it was 0-4 PPM.
There must be a shop in the land of gracious living or over in the Brea area.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by Mike..Yorba Linda

Right, no stats and new hoses.....Ford script for the purists I'm anxious to get started with all your ideas to check. I very much appreciate all who gave suggestions of what to look for/do. Kind of busy with work stuff but should be another week......

Pressurized system? Stock radiator?

[Mike..Yorba Linda]

wga, You know the motto and the area! I think a friend who does Mercedes, BMW, and Porsche repair might have one. If the reading is up there, heads will roll.....or be removed....

[Mike..Yorba Linda]

Pete, all stock radiator (new) and system....

[flatford8]

Your getting some great suggestions here.... I have nothing to add there..... but dammit, quit your job and work on the car... LOL....I can't wait to hear the results.... Mark

[47COE]

You can get a NAPA kit (BK 7001006) to test for combustion gases in the coolant. It's a quick easy test and cost is under $50.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7001006