The Ford Barn

divcoone · 07-13-2018, 01:08 PM

If I drop the radius arms, can I separate the tube flange enough to seal it?

100IH · 07-13-2018, 02:08 PM

Can't go very far because you are hard up against the transmission and the speedo drive parts are a problem. You will get enough gap to wrap a piece of dental floss, impregnated with #2 permatex, several times around. Likely best to loosen the bolts but not remove. Thanks to 1955cj5, a couple years ago. A good friend near by.

Tom Endy · 07-13-2018, 02:09 PM

I suggest you don't attempt it. You are liable to tear up the gaskets, which besides controlling oil leaks, establishes the carrier bearing pre-load .

My advice is to torque all 20 banjo bolts to 35 ft. lbs. You will probably find the two bolts on each side of the banjo at the torque tube flange loose.

If that does not solve your problem drain the banjo and remove one banjo bolt at a time and coat the threads with sealer, reinstall and torque to 35 ft. lbs. Do that to all 20 bolts.

Tom Endy

1955cj5 · 07-13-2018, 02:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by divcoone

If I drop the radius arms, can I separate the tube flange enough to seal it?

Are you talking about the drive shaft tube or the left or right axle tube?

divcoone · 07-13-2018, 03:13 PM

Drive shaft tube

1955cj5 · 07-13-2018, 04:54 PM

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" Drive shaft tube"

As 100IH mentioned I did this a few years ago. I loosened the retaining bolts just enough to create a small gap between the flanges, and then wrapped dental floss covered with permatex #2 into the gap, and around the bolts but inside the diameter of the flange...does that make sense? Anyway, it worked fine and still does not leak...I'll look for a picture...

Randy

No picture...but as I think about it I believe I worked the permatex into the gap and then used the floss to help carry the permatex deeper into the flange...

.

divcoone · 07-14-2018, 11:05 AM

Tom and Randy, bolts were loose on drive tube flange. 3 yeats ago I installed a overdrive and used lock washers instead of wire. Also removed banjo bolts and sealed with permatex.
Time will tell.

Dick M · 07-14-2018, 01:18 PM

You might try this method. Take a rotary wire brush and put it into your drill motor. Clean the area where the torque tube mounts to the banjo using the wire brush. Take it down to the metal. Mix up some JB Weld. Apply the JB Weld to the joint between the torque tube and the banjo using a little scraper. Let it dry. Repaint after drying. I used this method between the flutes and the banjo about 5 years ago. No more drips and I did not have to take anything apart...

SAJ · 07-14-2018, 04:36 PM

When installing a Mithchell overdrive I used silicone on the the torque tube to diff gasket. Bad idea because the gasket extruded about half its width out of the joint. I ran it for several years before it started to leak somewhat.
I tied the rear axle to the rear of my hoist, attached a heavy truck-type ratchet strap up front, removed all the flange bolts and tightened the ratchet to get a 1/4 inch gap at the flange. This is enough to scrape the faces clean and insert a new gasket slit diagonally at the top to feed it round the tube. It was coated with blue Hylomar and carefully positioned with the slit edges butted. A's the Hylomar tacks-up this holds it perfectly in place. No more leaks after tightening and lock wiring. I have no photos, but I guess I must have re moved the front radius arm bolt or lowered the ball out of the housing to allow the "stretch" to take place, opening up the gasket joint at the diff flange.
It sounds difficult but was actually quite easy, though one does need a hoist or floor tie downs to achieve the necessary stretching action. There is not a great deal of force involved on the ratchet either, but watch the clearance between fan and radiator as the engine moves forward away from the rear axle.
SAJ in NZ

07-13-2018, 01:08 PM	#1
divcoone Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2017 Posts: 175	Rear end oil leak If I drop the radius arms, can I separate the tube flange enough to seal it?

07-13-2018, 02:09 PM	#3
Tom Endy Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Southern California Posts: 3,131	Re: Rear end oil leak I suggest you don't attempt it. You are liable to tear up the gaskets, which besides controlling oil leaks, establishes the carrier bearing pre-load . My advice is to torque all 20 banjo bolts to 35 ft. lbs. You will probably find the two bolts on each side of the banjo at the torque tube flange loose. If that does not solve your problem drain the banjo and remove one banjo bolt at a time and coat the threads with sealer, reinstall and torque to 35 ft. lbs. Do that to all 20 bolts. Tom Endy

07-13-2018, 03:13 PM	#5
divcoone Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2017 Posts: 175	Re: Rear end oil leak Drive shaft tube

07-13-2018, 04:54 PM	#6
1955cj5 Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Boise, Idaho Posts: 1,578	Re: Rear end oil leak Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) " Drive shaft tube" As 100IH mentioned I did this a few years ago. I loosened the retaining bolts just enough to create a small gap between the flanges, and then wrapped dental floss covered with permatex #2 into the gap, and around the bolts but inside the diameter of the flange...does that make sense? Anyway, it worked fine and still does not leak...I'll look for a picture... Randy No picture...but as I think about it I believe I worked the permatex into the gap and then used the floss to help carry the permatex deeper into the flange... . __________________ Early '29 CCPU that had a 4-speed, but not any more.......in the family since '62 Last edited by 1955cj5; 07-13-2018 at 04:59 PM.

07-14-2018, 11:05 AM	#7
divcoone Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2017 Posts: 175	Re: Rear end oil leak Tom and Randy, bolts were loose on drive tube flange. 3 yeats ago I installed a overdrive and used lock washers instead of wire. Also removed banjo bolts and sealed with permatex. Time will tell.

07-13-2018, 02:08 PM	#2
100IH Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: SW Idaho Posts: 970	Re: Rear end oil leak Can't go very far because you are hard up against the transmission and the speedo drive parts are a problem. You will get enough gap to wrap a piece of dental floss, impregnated with #2 permatex, several times around. Likely best to loosen the bolts but not remove. Thanks to 1955cj5, a couple years ago. A good friend near by.

07-14-2018, 01:18 PM	#8
Dick M Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Ukiah, CA Posts: 477	Re: Rear end oil leak You might try this method. Take a rotary wire brush and put it into your drill motor. Clean the area where the torque tube mounts to the banjo using the wire brush. Take it down to the metal. Mix up some JB Weld. Apply the JB Weld to the joint between the torque tube and the banjo using a little scraper. Let it dry. Repaint after drying. I used this method between the flutes and the banjo about 5 years ago. No more drips and I did not have to take anything apart...

07-14-2018, 04:36 PM	#9
SAJ Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Auckland, New Zealand Posts: 514	Re: Rear end oil leak When installing a Mithchell overdrive I used silicone on the the torque tube to diff gasket. Bad idea because the gasket extruded about half its width out of the joint. I ran it for several years before it started to leak somewhat. I tied the rear axle to the rear of my hoist, attached a heavy truck-type ratchet strap up front, removed all the flange bolts and tightened the ratchet to get a 1/4 inch gap at the flange. This is enough to scrape the faces clean and insert a new gasket slit diagonally at the top to feed it round the tube. It was coated with blue Hylomar and carefully positioned with the slit edges butted. A's the Hylomar tacks-up this holds it perfectly in place. No more leaks after tightening and lock wiring. I have no photos, but I guess I must have re moved the front radius arm bolt or lowered the ball out of the housing to allow the "stretch" to take place, opening up the gasket joint at the diff flange. It sounds difficult but was actually quite easy, though one does need a hoist or floor tie downs to achieve the necessary stretching action. There is not a great deal of force involved on the ratchet either, but watch the clearance between fan and radiator as the engine moves forward away from the rear axle. SAJ in NZ