1938 Ford Chatter Bars

[Art Gischia]

Running a '38 with the standard Flathead. Saw older posts about chatter bars, and wonder where I can purchase a set. Does anyone have pictures?

[Charlie Stephens]

Since you are on the Model A forum I assume you are running a '38 in a Model A, is this a correct assumption?

Charlie Stephens

[Art Gischia]

Sorry, I posted this on the A site. The '38 is a deluxe 4 door. Last night someone mentioned chatter bars and I was interested to find a source for them, pictures of where and how they attach.

[1931 flamingo]

Art: Go over onto the EV8 Forum and ask. Somebody may even have pictures. They mount from the frame to the tranny or block I believe. You should be able to see holes OR they may be installed and need adjusting.
Paul in CT

[Art Gischia]

Thanks Paul,
I also have a 29 closed cab, a 30 Woodie Wagon and a 31 Slant Window sedan.

My slant window has developed a sticky pop out since I took it out of winter storage. The amp gauge doesn't show a discharge when the ignition is supposedly off, but the battery drains. I'm suspecting a short in the wire to the distributor. Any suggestions?

[Tom Wesenberg]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Originally Posted by Art Gischia

Thanks Paul,
I also have a 29 closed cab, a 30 Woodie Wagon and a 31 Slant Window sedan.

My slant window has developed a sticky pop out since I took it out of winter storage. The amp gauge doesn't show a discharge when the ignition is supposedly off, but the battery drains. I'm suspecting a short in the wire to the distributor. Any suggestions?

You can disconnect either wire from coil primary terminals and connect an ammeter in series to see if the ignition circuit has a drain. The coil when full on should show about a 4 amp drain, and only uses about 1 to 1 1/2 amps when the engine is running.

You can take apart the popout to clean and lube it. DO NOT use WD-40 to lube it. WD-40 is not a lubricant and may make potmetal swell, which will really give you a stuck popout. I use a coating of ATF to lube the cylinder and key pins. I've posted pictures of the popout taken apart, which might be found by doing a search.

[Charlie Stephens]

Originally Posted by Art Gischia

Thanks Paul,
I also have a 29 closed cab, a 30 Woodie Wagon and a 31 Slant Window sedan.

My slant window has developed a sticky pop out since I took it out of winter storage. The amp gauge doesn't show a discharge when the ignition is supposedly off, but the battery drains. I'm suspecting a short in the wire to the distributor. Any suggestions?

Art,

I would like to suggest you start a new thread with a title that will attract the Model A guys. Now back to your original question. Look on your '38 engine directly above where the starter motor mounts. You should find a 1 inch thick boss with a hold through it. This is where the Chatter rod mounts to the block. There is also one on the other side of the engine. These rods extend back to the frame X-member. There should be a counter sunk hole in the X-member where the end of the rod mounts. Search the archives here and at earlyfordv8.org and you should find some pictures. You should be able to find a set with an ad in the wanted section. There were different lengths used but I cannot help on that question. If you are doing a restoration do you have a copy of the restoration guidelines from the Early Ford V8 Club (earlyfordv8.org)?


Charlie Stephens

[Sparky]

For my own edification, what's a chatter bar?

[Jason in TX]

Originally Posted by Sparky

For my own edification, what's a chatter bar?

I'm going to explain this more in Model A terminology...

Ford came up with some rods that mounted from the center crossmember (more or less) up to the bellhousing. This was to eliminate the driveline chatter that would occasionally happen since the entire driveline was all on floating cushions/biscuits. The whole driveline could move forward and aft slightly due to the biscuit style motor mount and this was the solution to tie the gearbox/bellhousing to the frame to prevent lateral movement


These are anti-chatter rods


You can see them in this picture on a Model B frame....below the exhaust pipe.... going from the center K member (crossmember) to the bellhousing.



Hurst also made anti chatter clips to hold the engine steady...

[Sparky]

Thanks!

[Art Gischia]

Thanks A lot Charlie! your description and pictures explain it well.


I would like to suggest you start a new thread with a title that will attract the Model A guys. Now back to your original question. Look on your '38 engine directly above where the starter motor mounts. You should find a 1 inch thick boss with a hold through it. This is where the Chatter rod mounts to the block. There is also one on the other side of the engine. These rods extend back to the frame X-member. There should be a counter sunk hole in the X-member where the end of the rod mounts. Search the archives here and at earlyfordv8.org and you should find some pictures. You should be able to find a set with an ad in the wanted section. There were different lengths used but I cannot help on that question. If you are doing a restoration do you have a copy of the restoration guidelines from the Early Ford V8 Club (earlyfordv8.org)?


Charlie Stephens[/QUOTE]

[QGolden]

Thanks Jason!

[1931 flamingo]

Jason: I haven't seen a set of those Hurst clips since back in the 60's. Thanks for posting.
Paul in CT

[Roadster62]

I have a pair listed in the classified section, and I send you a PM. Bob

[Chuck Sea/Tac]

Jason: I thought 32's used a snubber on the fire wall but yet that frame appears to be 32. Was there a mid year change? Chuck

[Randy in ca]

Originally Posted by Chuck Sea/Tac

Jason: I thought 32's used a snubber on the fire wall but yet that frame appears to be 32. Was there a mid year change? Chuck

I'm pretty sure that the firewall "snubbers", as you call them, were only used on the 4 cylinder models.