02-26-2019, 11:19 PM | #21 |
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Re: Engine Stand
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02-26-2019, 11:27 PM | #22 | |
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Re: Engine Stand
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02-27-2019, 02:16 AM | #23 |
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Re: Engine Stand
i have the stock cast iron one, but haven't weighed it. It is very heavy though. Probably more than the stock flywheel.
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02-27-2019, 04:35 AM | #24 |
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Re: Engine Stand
I made my own adapter for the side of the engine partly due to having the heavier HF engine stand. The pipe size is bigger for the rotating piece.
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02-27-2019, 06:18 AM | #25 | |
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Re: Engine Stand
Quote:
I remember you traveled a LOOOONG way to a machine shop. Glad you have a Harbor Freight Store, near you. I HATE folks that criticise them!!! Look at their website, they have more stuff than you can wave a stick at! Bill W.
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02-27-2019, 07:35 AM | #26 |
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Re: Engine Stand
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02-27-2019, 09:19 AM | #27 |
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Re: Engine Stand
If you use a Harbor Freight stick they break when you wave them..
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02-27-2019, 10:13 AM | #28 |
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Re: Engine Stand
Railcarmover - Thanks for the picture!!!
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02-27-2019, 10:43 AM | #29 |
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Re: Engine Stand
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02-27-2019, 12:45 PM | #30 |
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Re: Engine Stand
It does not get much simpler than this
Last edited by 1929 Red Tudor; 04-02-2019 at 08:56 AM. |
02-27-2019, 01:37 PM | #31 |
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Re: Engine Stand
Oh nooooo Bill. Never sell your welder. I would consider getting rid of my dog before my welder.
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02-27-2019, 04:57 PM | #32 |
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Re: Engine Stand
DD931; I believe you stated you wanted to leave the head and oil pan on the engine when you mount it to the engine stand. The side mount adapter is bolted to the engine using the water inlet and two bolts on the oil pan. If you use the side adapter, you'll have to remove the oil pan BEFORE you mount the engine to the engine stand. If you remove the flywheel and flywheel housing, you can use the rear of the engine to mount the engine onto the stand. Use the top two bolt holes(where the shims go) and the lower two flywheel housing bolt holes to mount to the engine stand. This lowers the engine so the center of rotation is nearer the engine's center of gravity. You can do all your disassembly and assembly with the engine mounted this way. But you'll have to dismount it to add the flywheel housing and flywheel again.
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02-27-2019, 05:16 PM | #33 |
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Re: Engine Stand
You don’t have to remove the pan, only the two bolts where the engine mount goes.
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02-27-2019, 05:18 PM | #34 |
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Re: Engine Stand
CarlG: how are you going to remove the oil pan after you mount the engine on the stand using the side mount adapter?
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02-27-2019, 06:49 PM | #35 |
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Re: Engine Stand
The two bolts that use the pan rail do not need nuts. You can use dowels for this. I had a local welding/fabricator shear and bend my adaptor plate. I had a template for them to use. I welded the two bolts to the plate and drilled the two water inlet holes as well as four holes to bolt the plate to my engine stand. I bolted the adapter directly to the stand face thus eliminating having to deal with fabricating a pipe.
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02-28-2019, 03:23 PM | #36 |
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Re: Engine Stand
You have to take the rest of the pan bolts out.
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03-01-2019, 02:28 PM | #37 |
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Re: Engine Stand
Anyone who does this daily would put a drain pan under the drain plugs first thing and let it drip right up until time to mount the sling and lift the block out. then set it down a cart or on the floor for removing clutch and flywheel and then F/W housing. Then mount the adapter (you can remove the bolts that are in the way at the pan rail). Then up to mount on the stand.
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03-01-2019, 10:09 PM | #38 | |
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Re: Engine Stand
Quote:
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03-03-2019, 01:13 PM | #39 |
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Re: Engine Stand
Eagle, what stand is this?
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03-07-2019, 11:42 AM | #40 |
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Re: Engine Stand
Engine is sitting in a corner, behind some stuff so hard to get a picture but this shows how I mounted it. Works fine for me. Its just the cheap Harbor Freight stand.
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