Body to Frame isolators

[56sedandelivery]

So got a kit to redo the body to frame rubber mounting pads. The only thing that came with it was a parts list and diagram where they go. Not the orientation of them. So in the pic should they go as in A,B, or c? Also what is the best way to lift the body enough to get the new pads in? Thanks

[KULTULZ]

I think it was JW that went through this. The mount kits are for a sedan and you have to adapt some positions. They did not give you a position diagram?

[56sedandelivery]

Originally Posted by KULTULZ

I think it was JW that went through this. The mount kits are for a sedan and you have to adapt some positions. They did not give you a position diagram?

Yes it came with a position diagram but does not say what the orientation of the rubber idolators are for installing on the pad. just SWAG I would guess they go on as in figure one.

[KULTULZ]

I have all the info but it is on a thumb drive and for some reason I cannot open it (and of course, my CRS is kicking in good here lately).

There was a lengthy discussion here a few months ago concerning JW WHITE's 56 wagon.

[Daves55Sedan]

Not exactly sure what your asking, but the best orientation of the square rubber pad is to position it so that it is "square" with the mounting surface on the frame. That will give optimal support.
The bolt lengths are different, depending upon where you are on the frame.
As another '55 Courier owner, I can also testify that the body-to-frame mounting kit for wagons is different from the car, particularly in the back. For those, just get the new rubber pad with bolts, nuts and washers to match your old ones.

[Jwawhite]

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My set up was Bolt, Steel washer, Rubber, Floor Pan, Pad, Frame, Washer and Nut.

[KULTULZ]

The information is in here but I have never had great success with the SEARCH feature.

[56sedandelivery]

Originally Posted by Daves55Sedan

Not exactly sure what your asking, but the best orientation of the square rubber pad is to position it so that it is "square" with the mounting surface on the frame. That will give optimal support.
The bolt lengths are different, depending upon where you are on the frame.
As another '55 Courier owner, I can also testify that the body-to-frame mounting kit for wagons is different from the car, particularly in the back. For those, just get the new rubber pad with bolts, nuts and washers to match your old ones.

Guess I am asking does the round pad with the rubber extension go ion the frame with the extension through the frame mount hole? As in pic A?


Also can these be installed one at a time of does the entire body have to be lifted to install?

[40cpe]

I would think the frame goes between the two pieces of rubber with the extension on the round part going through the frame, as in "B" or "C".

[Daves55Sedan]

Here's the intended installation from top down:
1) Bolt
2) Funny washer with the raised, serrated surface contacting the underside of bolt-head.
3) Round rubber pad with convex protrusion inserted down in the hole thru floor.
4) Floor pan
5) thick square rubber pad
6) Speed nut (has a square nut attached to a spring clip) This speed nut must be inserted onto the frame mounting surface with the nut on the underside and aligned with the hole thru the frame member.
The holes located on each frame rail at the second from last position do not require anything underneath as the frame is drilled and tapped for the bolt. Only thing need for those two holes is short bolt, funny washer and round rubber pad.
Then, the very last two mounts consist of a heavy angle iron welded to the last floor support underneath. Those angles have holes in them for the bolt to go thru. That bolt will pass thru holes going thru both upper and lower legs of the very last frame crossmember in the back. In that case you have:
1) Castle-nut (on top of angle)
2) big, heavy flat-washer
3) flat round rubber pad (about 1/8 inch thick) sitting directly on the angle iron
4) The angle iron welded to last underfloor support
5) flat round rubber pad (about 1/8 inch thick) on very bottom of frame crossmember
6) big, heavy flat-washer
7) Bolt, inserted upside down thru frame crossmember holes and thru angle iron.

[Daves55Sedan]

Originally Posted by 56sedandelivery

Also can these be installed one at a time of does the entire body have to be lifted to install?

The thick rubber square pad will ultimately be squished in between the frame and floor support. You will not be able to remove the old rubber pad unless you at least loosen all the bolts down one side and jack up the car body off the frame.
However, I do NOT recommend that. I recommend loosening all body to frame bolts and completely removing the two nuts, washers and springs that hold the radiator support to the frame, and jack up the entire car body evenly (or lift it from overhead), so that there will be no damage or deflection of any sheet metal body parts.

[KULTULZ]

... hmmpf ...

Read the SEARCH FEATURE directions in its entirety and walla -

Here are the earlier thread(s) on the subject. Hopefully they will help you -

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...ht=body+mounts

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...ht=body+mounts

[56sedandelivery]

Thanks Dave that is what I was needing.



Kultulz Thanks for the links. It say torque to 22foot pounds. That sound about right?

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by 56sedandelivery

It say torque to 22foot pounds. That sound about right?

Correct -

[Jwawhite]

I found the Torque Value listed placed too much pressure? on the square or round pads of today's material. They oversquished? so I used a lower Torque value.
You can actually hear the body/cowl area creak a bit while tightening the bolts down.
I cross tightened the interior/door area bolts such as a pattern on car wheels.
My car has been so finagled with, the front bolt closest to the rocker, driver's side eyelet, was overstretched. The washer, bolt would pull through the floorboard! I used a grade 8 thick washer (placed on the floor board) before inserting the bolt/ steel washer/ rubber through floorboard. I do not have a weld machine in my garage, I was able to Torque the bolt w/o issues.
The yellow highlights on the above diagram was for me not to miss anything on my Wagon.

[bobss396]

When I do mine, I may shop out of the Energy Suspension catalog and dig up the hardware, or make some washers from 1/4" steel bar.

[Daves55Sedan]

That hole thru the floor panel has definitely been enlarged by a previous owner, and the bolt/washer you pulled out is not original.
So, in this case, the new round rubber pad that sits on the floor will not keep the body from moving from side to side, since the hole in the floor is larger than the convex protrusion on the bottom of the rubber pad.
If you could get a lead insert to put in there first, then you could use the round rubber pad effectively along with the round rubber pad and original washer.
In lieu of that, go ahead and put the round pad in there and use a 1/8 inch thick steel washer. That will at least hold it down.

[Jwawhite]

Hi Dave, I did this work some time ago. I used new upper steel washers (and rubber gasket) such as the one in the photo with the bolt. The bolt was stock? in the floor when I removed it. The right photo is the grade 8 washer that substitutes over the enlarged hole in floor board. It works, Torque is holding.

[56sedandelivery]

Dragging up a old thread of mine. Next question can you do one at a time or do you need to loosen the entire side. I am hoping I can take one out, jack up that are enough to slide the new one in. Is there enough give to do it that way? Do not want to tweak anything doing this.

[frank long island]

i dont think you'll get enough height by doing 1 at a time i would do one side at a time jacking on the pinch weld along the rocker panel but support the length of the rocker while jacking maybe using 2 jacks with an angle iron standing on edge to give you a "v" along panel others may have a different opinion