35’-36’ Water Pump - Pulley Removal

[dbtenner]

How do you remove the impeller and or pulley? The impeller side is not a nut. It looks pressed together.

Anybody run across this?


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[FlatheadTed]

Db ,Sit the impeller on your open vice then drive the shaft through with a drift ,sometimes its pinned ,

[dbtenner]

Originally Posted by FlatheadTed

Db ,Sit the impeller on your open vice then drive the shaft through with a drift ,sometimes its pinned ,

What is pinned? Can I use a stamp and use a mallet to hit the center rod thru the pump?


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[Andy]

Support the pump mounting flange and hammer the pully end of the shaft in the pully. I will drive the shaft and impeller out the back.

[DavidG]

It is only the later and service pump impeller shafts and pulleys that are not "pinned". Production pumps through '36 have a tapered pin holding the pulley on to the impeller shaft. That pin on the front of the pulley must be driven out in order to remove the pulley from the shaft.

[dbtenner]

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Mine could be pinned? I can’t drive the rod thru the pulley end. It’s enclosed.



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[DavidG]

Search for opposing small holes in the front protrusion of the pulley in which there would be a pin running through the shaft. If there are no holes then there is no pin and the pulley is one of the pressed-on versions.

[JM 35 Sedan]

As usual, DavidG is right on the money with his info on the pin in pulley. You MUST drive that pin out from its smaller end, while making sure the opposite side of pulley is supported.
The pin is the only part I drive out. I use a press to push the main shaft out, pushing on its pulley end, while the back of the pump housing is supported by a steel tube that allows clearance for the impeller and shaft to come thru, and out the back of housing. I've taken at least 100 of these 32 - 36 pumps apart, and found this is the best way.
If you start hammering on the main shaft that may have a very tight press fit on pulley to shaft, and impeller to shaft, you're probably going to break the housing in many cases.

[FlatheadTed]

As Andy says ,I have done plenty like that ,use the vice to support it ,you can drive the small pin out using the vice as well with a nail punch ,you can press the shaft if you have a press but this works as well .

Originally Posted by Andy

Support the pump mounting flange and hammer the pully end of the shaft in the pully. I will drive the shaft and impeller out the back.
I have never seen one pinned. Maybe a repair?

[dbtenner]

Thanks for the helpful advice. Wish I had a hydraulic press.

After rebuilding the water pump, is there a specific grease I should apply through the connection point?


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[Frank Miller]

On later pressed on pulleys I have hated the pulley and gotten it to easily come off the shaft.

[Hoop]

The pulley itself is easy to break ... BE CAREFUL not to put pressure on the pulley rather than the water pump housing.

Do not put blocks or press plates under the pulley rim. The idea is to drive the shaft through the water pump housing with the pulley sort of in the way. Do not pry or beat on the rim of the pulley.

Lots of broken pulleys out there.

[FlatheadTed]

Grease. you want a lot melt grease ,there used to be a water pump grease available ,Corn head grease might do it, but others may comment on that , there's nothing available here so I make my own mix of oil 3 to one of grease seems to work ok,I fill the cavity then don't add any for a year or two or three otherwise it will get into the radiator, Run the belt loose , melt out all the old grease first .

Originally Posted by dbtenner

Thanks for the helpful advice. Wish I had a hydraulic press.

After rebuilding the water pump, is there a specific grease I should apply through the connection point?


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