Zerk Grease Fittings for Dummies

[drolston]

Apparently greasing an early Ford is not like riding a bicycle. You can forget how to do it!. I decided I should do a chassis lube before embarking on the great cross country road trip. Back in the day, it was a quick stop at any service station. Now there is not a shop in town that has both the equipment and expertise to do a grease job. Got the manual grease gun hooked to the first fitting, and then could not get it off by pulling on it.

U-Tube to the rescue; reminded me that you must tilt and twist the connector to get it to come loose from the Zerk. Still feel pretty stupid about that, but thought I should post on this topic, in case some other dummy searches Ford Barn for such a problem.

Based on conventional wisdom from this site, I used Cornhead grease for the steering box and torque tube center bearing.

[philipswanson]

I use a high pressure grease fitting not a zerk. It's just a straight needle shaped fitting. Push the ball in and pump. You're done.

[chap52]

I got a pneumatic grease gun at HF. It has a rubber hose between the gun and the tip so it gets into those tough spots. Hook it up to the air hose and let the compressor do the work. Much easier on my old hands. Chap

[JoeBauer]

I replaced the large grease cups on my Model T with Zerk fittings. I had to relearn too!

[34billct]

Do not forget the U joint with that corn head grease.

[drolston]

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Originally Posted by 34billct

Do not forget the U joint with that corn head grease.

I used regular chassis lube on the drive shaft bearing at the back of the bell, as indicated by the shop manual. The manual also shows a lube point for "soap grease" for the universal joint. Is there a Zerk for the universal joint? If so, how do you get to it?

[Talkwrench]

Yes there should be one or even two grease nipples as we call them on the outer clam. If not you may have to go in from the turtle. Use 'some' low melting point grease in there you dont really have to go overboard.

[Cave]

'31 Coupe


I ordered the modern style zerks from Snyder's along with the modern installation tool. Unscrewed the threaded ones and replaced with no problem, then pried out the old press-ins with a chisel (worked great) and I can't drive the new press-ins in more than about 1/4 of their shank... the grease gun blew two of them right back out.


I'm using a heavy ball-peen hammer with the installation tool (A-353020-M) and fram the fitting like I mean it... only one of the four ridges on the shank drive into the car part - which ever it may be. WHAT am I doing WRONG?

And the angled drive-in ones are still on my bench... don't have a clue how to drive them in.