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Old 12-04-2016, 04:52 PM   #1
jhexide
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Default 8BA/8RT flathad

Had it all rebuilt ,how to put in distributer , and set timing,the only timing mark i see on the crank pully is a little diamond shape,
what is the firing order and is this number 1 the rotor it pointing to

thanks
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File Type: jpg timing01.jpg (64.3 KB, 67 views)
File Type: jpg Distributer.jpg (50.4 KB, 105 views)
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Old 12-04-2016, 05:57 PM   #2
36tudordeluxe
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Default Re: 8BA/8RT flathad

This should help you. I believe dot on crank pulley would be TDC mark for cyl. # 1. Once you rotate crank in its normal direction with pointer lined up with crank dot should be TDC for # 1 cal; then rotor would be closer to 6 o'clock position.
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Old 12-04-2016, 06:01 PM   #3
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Default Re: 8BA/8RT flathad

Maybe this image is clearer, firing order is: 1-5-4-8-6-3-7-2
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Old 12-04-2016, 06:46 PM   #4
Ronnie
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Default Re: 8BA/8RT flathad

This is the wiring diagram,as viewed from right (passenger side of car)
normal in USA. Lets not get the old port and starboard mess going again"LOL" Also note #1 is at the 6 o'clock position on the cap.

R
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Old 12-04-2016, 07:17 PM   #5
Bob C
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Default Re: 8BA/8RT flathad

According to my 1951 Chilton manual the mark on the pulley it 2 degrees BTDC.

Bob
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Old 12-04-2016, 07:54 PM   #6
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Default Re: 8BA/8RT flathad

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronnie View Post
This is the wiring diagram,as viewed from right (passenger side of car)
normal in USA. Lets not get the old port and starboard mess going again"LOL" Also note #1 is at the 6 o'clock position on the cap.

R
I always set my distributors with #1 at about the 9 o'clock position. But you can really put it wherever you want to with #1 at TDC or pointing at the dot.
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Old 12-04-2016, 09:15 PM   #7
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Default Re: 8BA/8RT flathad

Quote:
Originally Posted by flatjack9 View Post
I always set my distributors with #1 at about the 9 o'clock position. But you can really put it wherever you want to with #1 at TDC or pointing at the dot.
Yes for sure you can really put anywhere and then follow firing order,and fine tune from there.Guaranteed to start with that approach.

R
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Old 12-04-2016, 09:45 PM   #8
jhexide
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Default Re: 8BA/8RT flathad

great,thanks everyone for their advice,
also do i need a resister in the coil circuit,im using a pertronix conversion in my distributor
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Old 12-05-2016, 09:43 AM   #9
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Default Re: 8BA/8RT flathad

Re: Ballast resistor. It all depends on what type of Pertronix unit you are using. Call Pertronix and tell them what type of Pertronix unit you're using and they will tell you what type of coil you need to use and/or what type of resisitor is needed if any. There are many opinions on your question:
https://www.google.com/search?q=pert...+flathead+ford
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Old 12-05-2016, 12:29 PM   #10
jhexide
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Default Re: 8BA/8RT flathad

its the stock distributor,with Pertronix unit added
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Old 12-05-2016, 12:52 PM   #11
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Default Re: 8BA/8RT flathad

Then it becomes a 12 versus 6 volt issue, positive versus negative ground. Good advice to contact Pertronix. They are very helpful, and the life of the device depends on it.
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Old 12-05-2016, 05:51 PM   #12
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Default Re: 8BA/8RT flathad

I like to put number 1 at the 2 o'clock position. Makes it easier with the plug wires.
And consider the Pertronics coil with your ignition.
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Old 12-10-2016, 08:07 AM   #13
jhexide
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Default Re: 8BA/8RT flathad

thanks guys...
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Old 12-10-2016, 04:29 PM   #14
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Default Re: 8BA/8RT flathad

you didn't mention if the car has been converted to 12volt. Pertronix makes both a 12volt negative ground and a 6 volt positive ground unit so be sure to tell them which you have. If you can find a part number on the unit that would also help them recommend a coil.
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Old 12-10-2016, 04:34 PM   #15
jhexide
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Default Re: 8BA/8RT flathad

Its not in a car yet,hunting a Model A
Its on a stand need to fire it and breakin
I have a purple coil that i used in my inline chevy 6
With a pertronix dist but put an hei in it
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Old 12-10-2016, 05:12 PM   #16
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Default Re: 8BA/8RT flathad

If you're talking about 20 minutes to break in the cam, fine. Otherwise, I don't think trying to do a complete "break in" of your engine on a test stand is a good idea. There is no load on the engine, and there may be problems with the rings seating (this may not be a problem with the new moly rings). On mine, I use the stand for the initial start-up, leak checking, and cam break in and then it goes on a storage stand until it's ready to go into the car. It's tempting to sit there and watch the fruits of your labors every day or two, but probably not a good idea. "Ol' Ron" may have more to add.
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