The Ford Barn

Doug 845 · 05-04-2015, 08:53 AM

I finally got my old V8 Ford to fire up after sittiing for 20 plus years. The problem is that it will only run by pouring gas down the carb. I've put a new fuel pump on it & had the Carb rebuilt. I tried to see if the fuel line was blocked and found out that I couldn't get any compressed air to blow thru the line. How hard is it to replace the fuel line? Do I have to remove the entire tank? What else could be the problem? Should I replace more than just the line?

rockfla · 05-04-2015, 09:02 AM

You shouldn't have to remove the tank. Make sure ALL of the connection points from the tank to the carb are TIGHT, if any are sucking air you'll never get any fuel pressure. I had an old electric fuel pump, I connected an old rubber fuel line to the pick-up side of the pump and disconnected the line at the firewall, connect the fuel pump to the supply line and turn the pump on, if it pumps fuel, then, connect the line to the fuel pump and make sure it pumps fuel to the pump. If you know all that is good then your problem is from the fuel pump to the carb. Easy to trace it down. If your pump is getting fuel, then disconnect the line at the carb and put a jar there to catch the fuel, you can see if the pump is pumping like it should.

Scott H in Wheaton · 05-04-2015, 09:14 AM

"found out that I couldn't get any compressed air to blow thru the line"

if it was loose fittings or holes in the line I think the compressed air would go through.

You probably have a line clogged with sediment and probably the fuel sender as well.
I once took an empty gas tank out of an old old Ford and it probably weighed 10-15 pounds more than a similar 'empty' gas tank. Cut it open to find caked mud/sludge covering the bottom of the tank.

A lot can happen in 80 years

Doug 845 · 05-04-2015, 11:13 AM

I was hoping that I didn't have to remove the tank to replace the line. I didn't even think about the sending unit. I might have to replace that as well. Can I access the line & sending unit if I remove the differential cover plate located under the rumble seat?

billwill · 05-04-2015, 01:33 PM

Check the Flex at the fuel pump Good Luck

Doug 845 · 05-04-2015, 02:03 PM

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I installed a new flex line already. I checked the fuel line by blowing compressed air into the line right below the flex line. I had my daughter standing at a safe distance near the tank at the rear of the car with the gas cap off and she couldn't hear any sound of bubbles with 10 gallons of gas in it.

B-O-B · 05-04-2015, 03:08 PM

Is there a filter in line that you are not seeing.If you have to pull the sending unit you may be better off pulling the tank. You can get to the lines by removing the gusset between the frame & body under the rear fender. Look like the picture.

rockfla · 05-04-2015, 03:10 PM

My question would be?
If you disconnected the line at the flex and blew air back to the tank, IF that line was plugged, naturally she wouldn't here anything and you would have known that because all the compressed air would have blown back at you! RIGHT??

Just a thought!!!

If it were me I would replace the supply line from the tank to the firewall. As you said you can remove the inspection plate in the trunk and pull the sending unit for the gauge and at that point you can look inside and see what the inside of the thank looks like. At that point you can decide on pulling the tank and having it cleaned or not.

FlatheadTed · 05-04-2015, 03:54 PM

The differential cover plate located under the rumble seat? no its more to the back on a 34 under the edge of the lid located under the rumble seat? remove the lid .you could fit a new pipe this way .push a wire down it .Just did this on a 38 Cheby freed up good .Ted

jimTN · 05-04-2015, 03:59 PM

Thirty fours have a air operated fuel gauge and a special rig that is down in the tank. If the tank has set with old fuel in it, it is likely that the pick up rig has plugged up. You should be able to remove it from above, inspect, clean and check it out along with the recommendations on the fuel line itself. Commercial paint remover works well to remove old gas gum.

Doug 845 · 05-05-2015, 08:31 AM

Thanks for all of the replies. When I blew compressed air into the fuel line - I did have blowback and it even produced a whistle sound. I will try to access the fuel & air line by removing the gusset plate on the rear passenger side as suggested. I will also remove the differential cover plate under the 5 Window rumble seat to get a better view. The inside of the fuel tank looks like it is coated with some black substance??? The car was restored around 30 years ago.

Tim Brown · 05-05-2015, 09:29 AM

There are really no shortcuts to doing this right the first time. Disconnect the fuel line at the tank, pull the tank and have it professionally cleaned at a radiator shop. Verify that the sending unit is clean and working. Replace the tank and replace the complete fuel line. After 30 years its ready. My 2 cents...

rockfla · 05-05-2015, 10:14 AM

Amen Tim Brown

Your .02 worth is 2lbs of peace of mind.

JM 35 Sedan · 05-05-2015, 10:42 AM

I agree with others, taking shortcuts now usually means doing it correctly the second or third time later.

Doug 845 · 05-05-2015, 11:36 AM

I have to agree that pulling the tank might be the best way to go. I will have to siphon out the fresh gas and disconnect the fuel & air lines. I'll order the new fuel line and hydrostatic repair kit for my non-functioning fuel gauge. Would it be more cost effective to just order a new 11 gallon tank from Drake for $325 or just have the old one cleaned & coated? I called my local radiator shop and they said they couldn't give me a price over the phone. Also, how do I check the fuel sending unit to see if it is working properly?

Doug 845 · 05-05-2015, 02:00 PM

I thought that I would share what I just discovered. I just found a manufacturer for a new sending unit on the gas tank. The supplier name is "KM Lifestyle Mfg." Has anyone on the Barn bought one of these?

FlatheadTed · 05-05-2015, 02:45 PM

The black stuff in there maybe a coating from the 30 year ago resto .You have to asses how bad the tank is but the $325 is not a lot of money ,clean fuel is a must on these old cars ted

Quote:

Originally Posted by Doug 845

I have to agree that pulling the tank might be the best way to go. I will have to siphon out the fresh gas and disconnect the fuel & air lines. I'll order the new fuel line and hydrostatic repair kit for my non-functioning fuel gauge. Would it be more cost effective to just order a new 11 gallon tank from Drake for $325 or just have the old one cleaned & coated? I called my local radiator shop and they said they couldn't give me a price over the phone. Also, how do I check the fuel sending unit to see if it is working properly?

Milt K from Pa · 05-05-2015, 07:00 PM

Doug,
By all means, do everything possible to keep an original fuel tank!! Unless some changes have taken place, Drakes '34 tanks do not fit, unless you are a hot-rodder and can live with the neck in the wrong position. I needed a tank, sent the Drake unit back, and purchased a good used one.

Milt K from Pa

Terry,OH · 05-06-2015, 05:48 AM

Bob Drakes tanks and all the other Mfg.s ,34 replacements, do not have provisions for the hydrostatic fuel sender so if you change to a new tank you will lose your fuel gauge. The hydrostatic sender has the fuel tank vent pipe so you lose this also and may result in difficulty filling the gas tank or if you install a vented gas cap, gas will usually slosh out of the tank and over the painted fuel tank cover, when driving.

Doug 845 · 05-06-2015, 08:15 AM

Based upon the great advice I received from my fellow barn members I decided to have the original tank cleaned out. I am curious as to how to remove the sending unit though. Is it screwed in or is it bolted in? Can they be rebuilt or should I just buy a new one?

jimTN · 05-06-2015, 09:30 AM

It has screws holding it in and it needs to be scraped, cleaned and chaecked. It has lots of little vents and passages. You need to refer to the service bulletins to understand how it works.

rockfla · 05-06-2015, 09:52 AM

At JimTn

Is/Does the 34 gage work the same or very similar to the 32 gage??

B-O-B · 05-06-2015, 11:25 AM

picture here for you.
http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/32fuelgauge.htm

rockfla · 05-06-2015, 12:33 PM

Thanks B-O-B

Doug 845 · 05-07-2015, 02:26 PM

I will be pulling my gas tank for a cleaning at a local radiator shop. The tank is in pretty good shape with no holes at all, just some black junk adhered to the inside of it. Should I just have it cleaned or should I also coat the inside with something? It seems to me that the new gasoline already has 10% ethanol which should keep the rust at bay and the ethanol might eventually break down whatever coating is applied. Any thoughts?

rockfla · 05-07-2015, 02:37 PM

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Its all opinions...Right?
Only you can really answer that question. How much are you gonna be driving the car? How long will it sit inactive??? How much fuel do you plan on keeping in the tank while it sits? If I were you I'd look around and find ethanol FREE gas, there are several stations here in FLA carrying it. Judging by the fact that your in Fishkill NY I would assume its gonna sit several months in the winter? There for, I would maybe look at coating it. If you keep your fuel tank full there is less opportunity for moisture to build up. Plus stabil and or other fuel stabilizer's will help and a cap or so of MMO every fill up will also do you good and help you too.

Doug 845 · 05-23-2015, 06:16 AM

I dropped off the tank to a local radiator shop and had them clean it out. After I spent $162 to have it cleaned the owner recommended that I install an inline filter. He explained to me that NYS doesn't allow boiling out of tanks anymore and he did the best job he could legally do. Now I know why - when I got home I figured I'd give it a final rinse with a gallon of acetone. I got so much more junk out of it that I now will have to use Lestoil and a pressure washer to do the job again. After that I will use Metal Rescue to address any rust issues. I will then have to buy another gallon of acetone to do a final rinse. Next time - I'll do the job myself and save myself a weeks worth of waiting time and money.

G.M. · 05-23-2015, 09:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Doug 845

I will be pulling my gas tank for a cleaning at a local radiator shop. The tank is in pretty good shape with no holes at all, just some black junk adhered to the inside of it. Should I just have it cleaned or should I also coat the inside with something? It seems to me that the new gasoline already has 10% ethanol which should keep the rust at bay and the ethanol might eventually break down whatever coating is applied. Any thoughts?

Let the radiator shop decide if it needs a coating inside. The 10% ethanol ATTRACTS water and causes rust and sender problems, it can also eat the thin brass float. Find non ethanol gas and save future problems with other parts also. G.M.

WRA · 05-24-2015, 06:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tim Brown

There are really no shortcuts to doing this right the first time. Disconnect the fuel line at the tank, pull the tank and have it professionally cleaned at a radiator shop. Verify that the sending unit is clean and working. Replace the tank and replace the complete fuel line. After 30 years its ready. My 2 cents...

Do they even do this any more?? I had a tank that had "Tank Sealer" in it and had separated from the tank over time. Few years ago I tried all over town and even a few shops on line. EPA put them out of business in every shop I contacted. Ended up scrapping the tank.

G.M. · 05-24-2015, 07:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Doug 845

I dropped off the tank to a local radiator shop and had them clean it out. After I spent $162 to have it cleaned the owner recommended that I install an inline filter. He explained to me that NYS doesn't allow boiling out of tanks anymore and he did the best job he could legally do. Now I know why - when I got home I figured I'd give it a final rinse with a gallon of acetone. I got so much more junk out of it that I now will have to use Lestoil and a pressure washer to do the job again. After that I will use Metal Rescue to address any rust issues. I will then have to buy another gallon of acetone to do a final rinse. Next time - I'll do the job myself and save myself a weeks worth of waiting time and money.

Denatured alcohol is the only thing that cuts varnish. G.M.

Doug 845 · 06-11-2015, 11:55 AM

I got the Ford running after I installed the tank. Thanks to all of the replies - I finally managed to complete the job. I learned a couple things along the way. One was that there is a small rectangular access panel in the rear floor area that can be removed with one screw that allows anyone to remove the sending unit without having to remove the tank. The second thing I learned was that if you have to remove the tank you only have to remove the passenger side gusset panel to access the forward most bolt.

05-04-2015, 08:53 AM	#1
Doug 845 Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Fishkill, NY Posts: 178	1934 Fuel Line Problem I finally got my old V8 Ford to fire up after sittiing for 20 plus years. The problem is that it will only run by pouring gas down the carb. I've put a new fuel pump on it & had the Carb rebuilt. I tried to see if the fuel line was blocked and found out that I couldn't get any compressed air to blow thru the line. How hard is it to replace the fuel line? Do I have to remove the entire tank? What else could be the problem? Should I replace more than just the line?

05-04-2015, 09:02 AM	#2
rockfla Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Jacksonville FL Posts: 3,953	Re: 1934 Fuel Line Problem You shouldn't have to remove the tank. Make sure ALL of the connection points from the tank to the carb are TIGHT, if any are sucking air you'll never get any fuel pressure. I had an old electric fuel pump, I connected an old rubber fuel line to the pick-up side of the pump and disconnected the line at the firewall, connect the fuel pump to the supply line and turn the pump on, if it pumps fuel, then, connect the line to the fuel pump and make sure it pumps fuel to the pump. If you know all that is good then your problem is from the fuel pump to the carb. Easy to trace it down. If your pump is getting fuel, then disconnect the line at the carb and put a jar there to catch the fuel, you can see if the pump is pumping like it should.

05-04-2015, 09:14 AM	#3
Scott H in Wheaton Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: Wheaton, IL near Chicago Posts: 861	Re: 1934 Fuel Line Problem "found out that I couldn't get any compressed air to blow thru the line" if it was loose fittings or holes in the line I think the compressed air would go through. You probably have a line clogged with sediment and probably the fuel sender as well. I once took an empty gas tank out of an old old Ford and it probably weighed 10-15 pounds more than a similar 'empty' gas tank. Cut it open to find caked mud/sludge covering the bottom of the tank. A lot can happen in 80 years

05-04-2015, 11:13 AM	#4
Doug 845 Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Fishkill, NY Posts: 178	Re: 1934 Fuel Line Problem I was hoping that I didn't have to remove the tank to replace the line. I didn't even think about the sending unit. I might have to replace that as well. Can I access the line & sending unit if I remove the differential cover plate located under the rumble seat?

05-04-2015, 01:33 PM	#5
billwill Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: capemaynewjersey Posts: 653	Re: 1934 Fuel Line Problem Check the Flex at the fuel pump Good Luck

05-04-2015, 02:03 PM	#6
Doug 845 Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Fishkill, NY Posts: 178	Re: 1934 Fuel Line Problem Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) I installed a new flex line already. I checked the fuel line by blowing compressed air into the line right below the flex line. I had my daughter standing at a safe distance near the tank at the rear of the car with the gas cap off and she couldn't hear any sound of bubbles with 10 gallons of gas in it.

05-04-2015, 03:10 PM	#8
rockfla Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Jacksonville FL Posts: 3,953	Re: 1934 Fuel Line Problem My question would be? If you disconnected the line at the flex and blew air back to the tank, IF that line was plugged, naturally she wouldn't here anything and you would have known that because all the compressed air would have blown back at you! RIGHT?? Just a thought!!! If it were me I would replace the supply line from the tank to the firewall. As you said you can remove the inspection plate in the trunk and pull the sending unit for the gauge and at that point you can look inside and see what the inside of the thank looks like. At that point you can decide on pulling the tank and having it cleaned or not.

05-04-2015, 03:54 PM	#9
FlatheadTed Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Auckland Posts: 4,705	Re: 1934 Fuel Line Problem The differential cover plate located under the rumble seat? no its more to the back on a 34 under the edge of the lid located under the rumble seat? remove the lid .you could fit a new pipe this way .push a wire down it .Just did this on a 38 Cheby freed up good .Ted __________________ http://www.flatheadted.com Flathead Ted brake Floaters ,

05-04-2015, 03:59 PM	#10
jimTN Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Powell, TN Posts: 2,509	Re: 1934 Fuel Line Problem Thirty fours have a air operated fuel gauge and a special rig that is down in the tank. If the tank has set with old fuel in it, it is likely that the pick up rig has plugged up. You should be able to remove it from above, inspect, clean and check it out along with the recommendations on the fuel line itself. Commercial paint remover works well to remove old gas gum.

05-05-2015, 08:31 AM	#11
Doug 845 Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Fishkill, NY Posts: 178	Re: 1934 Fuel Line Problem Thanks for all of the replies. When I blew compressed air into the fuel line - I did have blowback and it even produced a whistle sound. I will try to access the fuel & air line by removing the gusset plate on the rear passenger side as suggested. I will also remove the differential cover plate under the 5 Window rumble seat to get a better view. The inside of the fuel tank looks like it is coated with some black substance??? The car was restored around 30 years ago.

05-05-2015, 09:29 AM	#12
Tim Brown Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Colfax, CA Posts: 387	Re: 1934 Fuel Line Problem There are really no shortcuts to doing this right the first time. Disconnect the fuel line at the tank, pull the tank and have it professionally cleaned at a radiator shop. Verify that the sending unit is clean and working. Replace the tank and replace the complete fuel line. After 30 years its ready. My 2 cents...

05-05-2015, 10:14 AM	#13
rockfla Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Jacksonville FL Posts: 3,953	Re: 1934 Fuel Line Problem Amen Tim Brown Your .02 worth is 2lbs of peace of mind.

05-05-2015, 10:42 AM	#14
JM 35 Sedan Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Near Rising Sun, Maryland Posts: 10,858	Re: 1934 Fuel Line Problem I agree with others, taking shortcuts now usually means doing it correctly the second or third time later. __________________ *John* *"Never give up on what you really want to do. The person with big dreams is more powerful than one with all the facts". Albert Einstein*

05-05-2015, 11:36 AM	#15
Doug 845 Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Fishkill, NY Posts: 178	Re: 1934 Fuel Line Problem I have to agree that pulling the tank might be the best way to go. I will have to siphon out the fresh gas and disconnect the fuel & air lines. I'll order the new fuel line and hydrostatic repair kit for my non-functioning fuel gauge. Would it be more cost effective to just order a new 11 gallon tank from Drake for $325 or just have the old one cleaned & coated? I called my local radiator shop and they said they couldn't give me a price over the phone. Also, how do I check the fuel sending unit to see if it is working properly?

05-05-2015, 02:00 PM	#16
Doug 845 Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Fishkill, NY Posts: 178	Re: 1934 Fuel Line Problem I thought that I would share what I just discovered. I just found a manufacturer for a new sending unit on the gas tank. The supplier name is "KM Lifestyle Mfg." Has anyone on the Barn bought one of these?

05-05-2015, 07:00 PM	#18
Milt K from Pa Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Pittsburgh Pa. Area Posts: 272	Re: 1934 Fuel Line Problem Doug, By all means, do everything possible to keep an original fuel tank!! Unless some changes have taken place, Drakes '34 tanks do not fit, unless you are a hot-rodder and can live with the neck in the wrong position. I needed a tank, sent the Drake unit back, and purchased a good used one. Milt K from Pa

05-06-2015, 05:48 AM	#19
Terry,OH Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 4,751	Re: 1934 Fuel Line Problem Bob Drakes tanks and all the other Mfg.s ,34 replacements, do not have provisions for the hydrostatic fuel sender so if you change to a new tank you will lose your fuel gauge. The hydrostatic sender has the fuel tank vent pipe so you lose this also and may result in difficulty filling the gas tank or if you install a vented gas cap, gas will usually slosh out of the tank and over the painted fuel tank cover, when driving.

05-06-2015, 08:15 AM	#20
Doug 845 Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Fishkill, NY Posts: 178	Re: 1934 Fuel Line Problem Based upon the great advice I received from my fellow barn members I decided to have the original tank cleaned out. I am curious as to how to remove the sending unit though. Is it screwed in or is it bolted in? Can they be rebuilt or should I just buy a new one?

05-06-2015, 09:30 AM	#21
jimTN Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Powell, TN Posts: 2,509	Re: 1934 Fuel Line Problem It has screws holding it in and it needs to be scraped, cleaned and chaecked. It has lots of little vents and passages. You need to refer to the service bulletins to understand how it works.

05-06-2015, 09:52 AM	#22
rockfla Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Jacksonville FL Posts: 3,953	Re: 1934 Fuel Line Problem At JimTn Is/Does the 34 gage work the same or very similar to the 32 gage??

05-06-2015, 11:25 AM	#23
B-O-B Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Ft Mohave,Az Posts: 1,987	Re: 1934 Fuel Line Problem picture here for you. http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/32fuelgauge.htm

05-06-2015, 12:33 PM	#24
rockfla Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Jacksonville FL Posts: 3,953	Re: 1934 Fuel Line Problem Thanks B-O-B

05-07-2015, 02:26 PM	#25
Doug 845 Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Fishkill, NY Posts: 178	Re: 1934 Fuel Line Problem I will be pulling my gas tank for a cleaning at a local radiator shop. The tank is in pretty good shape with no holes at all, just some black junk adhered to the inside of it. Should I just have it cleaned or should I also coat the inside with something? It seems to me that the new gasoline already has 10% ethanol which should keep the rust at bay and the ethanol might eventually break down whatever coating is applied. Any thoughts?

05-07-2015, 02:37 PM	#26
rockfla Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Jacksonville FL Posts: 3,953	Re: 1934 Fuel Line Problem Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Its all opinions...Right? Only you can really answer that question. How much are you gonna be driving the car? How long will it sit inactive??? How much fuel do you plan on keeping in the tank while it sits? If I were you I'd look around and find ethanol FREE gas, there are several stations here in FLA carrying it. Judging by the fact that your in Fishkill NY I would assume its gonna sit several months in the winter? There for, I would maybe look at coating it. If you keep your fuel tank full there is less opportunity for moisture to build up. Plus stabil and or other fuel stabilizer's will help and a cap or so of MMO every fill up will also do you good and help you too.

05-23-2015, 06:16 AM	#27
Doug 845 Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Fishkill, NY Posts: 178	Re: 1934 Fuel Line Problem I dropped off the tank to a local radiator shop and had them clean it out. After I spent $162 to have it cleaned the owner recommended that I install an inline filter. He explained to me that NYS doesn't allow boiling out of tanks anymore and he did the best job he could legally do. Now I know why - when I got home I figured I'd give it a final rinse with a gallon of acetone. I got so much more junk out of it that I now will have to use Lestoil and a pressure washer to do the job again. After that I will use Metal Rescue to address any rust issues. I will then have to buy another gallon of acetone to do a final rinse. Next time - I'll do the job myself and save myself a weeks worth of waiting time and money.

06-11-2015, 11:55 AM	#31
Doug 845 Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Fishkill, NY Posts: 178	Re: 1934 Fuel Line Problem I got the Ford running after I installed the tank. Thanks to all of the replies - I finally managed to complete the job. I learned a couple things along the way. One was that there is a small rectangular access panel in the rear floor area that can be removed with one screw that allows anyone to remove the sending unit without having to remove the tank. The second thing I learned was that if you have to remove the tank you only have to remove the passenger side gusset panel to access the forward most bolt.