New to forum and '29 170A info

[flyer91]

Hi folks,
I'm new to this forum and just wanted to say hello to you all, and pose a question or two.

I have a 29 Briggs Body "Blind Back", 170A that I bought in 1990.
I've always been under the impression that this particular model A is fairly rare version of the model A's and although I've neglected it during my last "dash to retirement" I planned to get back to it at some time.

It had seen a fairly good amateur restoration just before I bought it, with the engine work being done at Mac's in N. California (not sure if they are still around).

I've had it in storage for the past 10 years or so, and have recently been getting it ready for use.
I pulled the plugs and put a table spoon of 3-in-one oil into the cylinders.
It turned over with the hand crank with no problems.
The plugs showed a lot of soot, but no rust at all, and the oil is still honey colored.
Although I should have changed it before the storage, I didn't do that and hope I'm going to be OK. It had about 400 miles on it before I put it in storage.
The water is about 2" below the brim and the battery is full of distilled water.
I kept it that way over the years and on a 6V tender.

I'll change the oil, clean the gas tank out, and flush the cooling (I used a mix of coolant and water in it).
I had replaced the radiator, and the water pump (SS with a modern seal) added an oil filter, and changed the regulator for a solid state one, replaced the drums with the better/thicker aftermarket ones (as I recall they are called Mountain something brakes) along with some other mods/updates, before I put it in storage.
The hoses look/feel fine (had the same 400 miles on them) but maybe I should check them on the inside ..... or just replace them. (??)

I'm looking for some "should do's" before I actually fire it up again.
So ...... if there are some suggestions, or maybe a link for a 'prolonged storage start up check list' I'd be very grateful to know that.

Thanks folks, and best regards

Gary

[Tom Wesenberg]

If the battery is still OK, it sounds, to me like you're ready to fire it up. Hopefully you don't have old stale gas problems in the tank, sediment bowl, or carb. Make sure you can move the shutoff valve, then pour in a little gas. Check to see if the carb valve is stuck and letting the carb flood. If it's OK, then pour in some more gas and start the engine. If it hasn't been started in years, you may need to repolarize the generator.

[flyer91]

Thanks Tom, I'll be sure to polarize the generator (I would not have though to do that if you had not mentioned it).

I had installed a fuel filter in the sediment bowl and as well as flushing the tank I'll stop at the local NAPA store and get a new filter (it looks like it's well past being ..... done).

Also ... I found a folder with all my old receipts (along with the part numbers for the oil and fuel filters).

The engine was actually rebuilt by Cal's Engine and Machine Shop in Oakdale, Ca (not Mac's .... whom I did buy a lot of parts from) and the brake drums are from a company called Plasmeter in Oregon.
I'm still not sure if these companies are around these days, but I wanted to set the record straight after trying to count on my poor memory in my initial post and getting them wrong.

I'll post again once I have it running.
It'll sure be good to hear it go "potato, potato, potato" again .......

Thanks again, and best regards,

Gary

[Mike V. Florida]

Good luck and have fun!!

[MikeK]

If it has been on a battery tender for 10 years I'd check the battery S.G.! Probably wouldn't hurt to pull the cables and clean the terminals. Then check the tightness of all the other wiring. Mysterious time gremlins loosen things in storage. After the first warm up and run would be a good time to check the torque on the head and also the lug nuts.

[flyer91]

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Thanks Mike, I'll be sure to check/do as recommended.

I'm in a holding pattern until the local NAPA store can get the filters up here from Fresno.
Coarsegold is a small "one stop light" town in the Sierra mountains (close to the south entrance to Yosemite) and the local NAPA store does not stock a lot of parts.

So ........ I'm on hold until Monday afternoon .......

Best regards,

Gary

[flyer91]

Thanks for all the help guys.
It started right up on the first try!

I let it idle for a bit, checked that the brakes were working right and then my wife and I took it for a little drive around the roads in our local neighborhood.
It ran well and climbed the steep hills with no problem.

Although it only had about 400 miles on it before it's long sleep, I think I'm probably pretty lucky that after 10 years it just started up like that, and is running like it was driven yesterday.

However ...... I did notice that even though I polarized the generator, it doesn't seem to be charging at all.
So I may need to clean the commutator (I did have to do that to the horn's because it stopped on a dirty sector and wouldn't work until I took off the cover and cleaned it's baddly tarnished commutator).
Once I do that I will re-polarize it again to be sure it's right.

Just before going into storage, I had replaced the old battery with a new Ford Script, FLA 6 volt battery, and although I couldn't find my SG gauge (just a dropper with the colored balls) the battery is turning it over very strong.
I was thinking I might need to find a place that could gut it and place a newer AGM battery inside, connect the terminals and reseal the tar top, but it seems to be good for now.

The rubber seal for the Broyce Motometer radiator cap, is in need of replacement (it's like thick gum) and even though the hoses and belt look to be fine, I'll go ahead and replace them just to be sure.

Thanks again for the help and suggestions folks, I very much appreciate it .....

Best regards,

Gary

[Tom Wesenberg]

With the engine running jump across the two cutout terminals and see if it shows a charge. If it does, the cutout needs repair. DO NOT RUN THE GENERATOR in this condition. When the generator isn't connected to the battery it can put out over 30 volts and cook itself.

[msmaron]

Originally Posted by flyer91

Thanks for all the help guys.
It started right up on the first try!

I let it idle for a bit, checked that the brakes were working right and then my wife and I took it for a little drive around the roads in our local neighborhood.
It ran well and climbed the steep hills with no problem.

Gary....its a FORD...Of course it started!!!! Good luck and have fun!

[Ron in Quincy]

Gary,

The picture of your car, appears to be a steel back, blind back, late 1929 ? If so, its rather a rare body style; I believe there are only about 17 known to exist between the 2 National Clubs. One of our club members here in Quincy, Ca. has one and another friend living near Wheatland, Ca. has one which he purchased a number of years ago from the original owner.

Good luck on your project to get your,s going again.

Ron

[flyer91]

Tom,
It has a diode cut-out, will this still be OK to try the bypass?

Ron,
Yes, it is a steel back (170-A).
As I understand it, the production figures for it, were thrown in with the 60 series.

The stamping on the driver's side firewall is 8 14 29.

I'm not sure why, but I'm also thinking that it was assembled in San Francisco. (???)

Years ago an MAFCA technical advisor told me that it was rare, and that although he has seen pictures, he had never actually seen one in person.

I am very grateful to have the information you provided, on known the surviving numbers.


I'll take some pictures soon, and add them to my forum album.

Thanks, and best regards,

Gary

[Tom Wesenberg]

Yes, you can bypass a diode cutout, as long as you disconnect it when the engine is stopped. Otherwise you'd be feeding battery voltage into a stopped generator and overheat it.