Coil question

[bart78]

I have started working on a 26 touring car I pulled out of a barn a few months ago. I put a new battery on the car today. It turns over fine. But the coils make no noise. And it does not act like it even wants to try to start. The car sat for probably 15 years. Before it was parked the engine was rebuilt. And had rebuilt coils put in it. The coils were covered in dirt dobber nests. I cleaned them up good. I am thinking they will need rebuilt. If they do who is recomended to do this. What do y'all think. Thanks

[J Franklin]

Make sure the points have continuity when closed, give them and the coil box a good cleaning and burnishing and give it another try. Also make sure the timer is making a good contact at each post.

[yachtsmanbill]

Hot wire the coil box and make sure the timer has a good ground, including the contacts inside... those ground the coils for power... ws

[bart78]

What is the best way to test them without a coil tester? Can I check it with a ohm meter? And I have read on here about using a lantern battery to test them?

[Mike V. Florida]

This may help;

http://www.smokstak.com/articles/buzz_coil.html

[bart78]

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Thanks guys y'all are a big help. I have been struggling with what to do with this car. It was given to me. In hopes that I would restore it. The old guys kids have no interest in it. I have decided to do a complete frame off on it. Mainly because I have no money in it so far.

[bart78]

This is the car.

[bart78]

Also what plugs do y'all recomend?

[CharlieB]

First off the diagram shown in Mike's web site is wrong. The bottom contact is positive. The top one on the thin side is ground from the timer and the lower one is the high voltage to the plug. I use a toy train transformer to check them. If the transformer has an AC output I use that but DC will work too. Bend a piece of wire, say from a coat hanger, into a U shape about the distance of the 2 side terminals. Hook one end of the transformer wire, (or the neg side of a battery if you're using that) to the bent wire. Hold or tape the pos. side to the bottom terminal on the coil then hold the top terminal on the short side of the coil to one end of the bent wire. If the coil buzzes move the lower terminal towards the free end of the bent wire. You should get a high voltage spark jumping from the bottom terminal to the bent wire. Hold the coil by it's wood box and you won't get zapped. The Coil Man and the Coil Doctor are 2 re-builders with good reputations but I do my own. Long story but it's not hard to do at all. You Tube has some video's on the subject if you're interested. DO NOT hot wire the coil box in the car. There's a slim chance that you'll wreck the magneto if you send voltage into it via the mag wire. It would be a shame to ruin a (possibly) good mag. that way. There's a lot more to check but getting the coils to work on the bench is a good place to start especially if they were loaded with junk. You might just have dirty or compromised point sets. Ask questions.

[CharlieB]

I forgot to mention the bent wire is clamped in a vice.

[Randall]

Originally Posted by bart78

Also what plugs do y'all recomend?

Autolite 3095 runs good for me

[Dick Webber]

Just a thought before you do a complete body off take apart of this car, get it running and get to know and love it. After a good education you may still wish to take apart. I've seen too many complete cars turned into basket cases in the name of restoration. Car gets taken apart and for one reason or another the project gets lost along the way. Another good car lost. A take apart is a big commitment to time, money and place among other things like patience.

It's great car and a great hobby. Welcome

And besides, they are fun to drive pretty or not.

[Dick Webber]

Remember the ignition switch has 2 positions, magneto and battery. Turn on to battery to get a buzz.

[J Franklin]

Thanks for the foto, I've never seen a tire flat on top.

[Steve Jelf]

The advice to get the car running and enjoy it before you take it apart is sound. Being familiar with it will be a big help if and when you do decide to take the plunge.

The stock spark plug for a Model T is Champion X. New ones are about $20 each at O'Reilly, but you can often find good used ones for $5 to $7 at swap meets and on Ebay.

Here are a couple of links for all new T owners.

http://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG80.html

http://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG79.html

[CharlieB]

Hope the picture gives you an idea of what I'm talking about. It just saves me the trouble of building a buzz box. I have built a few and unloaded them on e-bay but it really only tells you if the coil is operational. HCCTing is necessary. And I do mean NECESSARY.

[bart78]

I tested them last night. And not one went buzz. The car ran when it wa parked. I rode in it when I was a little kid. It only has maybe ten miles on the rebuilt engine. And then it sat for a long time.

[CharlieB]

Do some reading on cleaning & setting the points. You said the famous line "ran when parked" so I'm going to assume the capacitors in the coils are OK and were working when the car was parked. If the coil tops were loaded with crud the cushion spring on the top portion of the points, (called the bridge) might be stuck. The clearence for the cushion spring is only .005 thousandths but it must be there for the coil to work. The main point gap it 1/32". It all has to be clean and free to work.

[bart78]

I will check it all.

[CharlieB]

Here's what I'm talking about. Enlarge it.