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Old 10-13-2015, 09:58 AM   #181
GOSFAST
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Default Re: 59 AB engine rebuild

Just to be clear when changing fasteners, we've never had to align bore/hone from the fastener change only. The ONLY item to check is the clearance between the stud itself and the main cap bolt hole. Occasionally you need to clearance this area slightly. You do not want the stud shank "touching" the holes.

The only fasteners we do not make this recommendation on are the connecting rods bolts, the rods MUST be resized after any bolt changes.

On these "Flattie" mains we've also used the BBC main bolts from time to time. The outer bolts from the Mk-VI (4 B.M.) BB fits perfect with some chamfered ARP washers. (See photo below)

Most Flatheads built here (99%) do get the ARP main stud kit figured in the build.

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. We've done a high number of main brg fastener changes and have never found it to create an issue! We've been an ARP dealer since their beginning.
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Old 10-14-2015, 07:44 AM   #182
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Default Re: 59 AB engine rebuild

Henry Ford had very high quality steel in almost all of his engine fasteners - I've used stock stuff for years with even high output engines. With that said, I do use ARP a lot - as the cost is small and the insurance is worth it.

Here is a link to Red's Headers (a place that I've had good luck with):

http://reds-headers.net/index.php?ma...roducts_id=683

As I mentioned before, have the studs purchased before you have your final block work done and always have the main bores checked for alignment with the actual fasteners you'll be using. As Gary noted, usually there will not be an issue - but always check.

Main Bearing Clearances and Crank Grinding (Race and High Output Flatheads): On performance builds, there is another area of the mains that I pay a lot of attention to. I prefer to have my crankshafts ground after I have the actual set of main bearings I want to use in my hand (and checked in the block) to accurately determine final clearances. A precision 3-point Starrett dial-bore gauge is used. I frequently see a variation of .0005 to .001 in actual torqued inside values - due to bearing manufacturing tolerances . . . so I like to give the crankshaft grinder the specific values I want for journal diameters.

In other/modern engines (say a BBC), we have the luxury of ordering .001 variations on the main bearing sets and then we can 1/2 shell them to tune the actual clearances to exactly what we want (which I frequently do).

If my crankshaft is pre-ground, the only way I can tune clearances on flatheads is to have multiple sets of bearings and swap stuff around until I get what I want . . . hence the reason to grind the crank with specific numbers (for a given engine and bearing set) in hand. The last engine I did this way - it took 3 sets of bearings (same manufacturer - King) to get what I wanted.

Is this necessary in stock engines - probably not, but it is very important in high output race style flatheads.
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Old 10-16-2015, 01:03 PM   #183
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Default Re: 59 AB engine rebuild

Reds price isn't bad but then the shipping at $20 for the 6 studs seems a little much. I haven't found any where else that sells the main studs.

Do any of you know of a place that might have them?



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Old 10-19-2015, 08:24 AM   #184
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Default Re: 59 AB engine rebuild

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Originally Posted by Macdozer View Post
Reds price isn't bad but then the shipping at $20 for the 6 studs seems a little much. I haven't found any where else that sells the main studs.

Do any of you know of a place that might have them?



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You can always call ARP directly and talk to a Sales Engineer. I do this all the time and they are very helpful and can take your order right over the phone. I have had the same issues with Red's - their shipping calculator is nuts at times - especially with small parts and light-weight items. You can always just call them directly as well - good folks.
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Old 10-30-2015, 06:42 AM   #185
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Default Re: 59 AB engine rebuild

I will be using a new 80 psi oil pump. Will I have to change the plunger and spring in the block ? Or can I leave it with the 50 psi spring ? Again I am talking about the plunger and spring in the block, in the valve valley .


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Old 10-30-2015, 07:49 AM   #186
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Default Re: 59 AB engine rebuild

The spring determines the final oil pressure, not the pump, as any excess pressure is released. 50 psi should be plenty.
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Old 11-01-2015, 05:51 PM   #187
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Default Re: 59 AB engine rebuild

Making head way on the rebuild. Crankshaft , camshaft, valves and all cylinders are in. Found something interesting today while looking through my book. The front oil slinger on the crankshaft ,there wasn't one there when I took the engine apart, i checked all the pictures I took and the oil slinger isn't there. I would like to get one to put in as they are probably there for a reason. Are the oil slingers for the flatheads all the same or are they different?


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Old 11-01-2015, 06:40 PM   #188
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Default Re: 59 AB engine rebuild

Quote:
Originally Posted by Macdozer View Post
Making head way on the rebuild. Crankshaft , camshaft, valves and all cylinders are in. Found something interesting today while looking through my book. The front oil slinger on the crankshaft ,there wasn't one there when I took the engine apart, i checked all the pictures I took and the oil slinger isn't there. I would like to get one to put in as they are probably there for a reason. Are the oil slingers for the flatheads all the same or are they different?


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Hi "Mac", got the message!

I would definitely use the slinger.

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. Got that piece covered also!
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Old 11-21-2015, 01:07 PM   #189
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Default Re: 59 AB engine rebuild

Trying to find top dead center on #1 piston. Wouldn't the two timing marks on the crankshaft gear and the camshaft gear be TDC on #1 piston when they are lined up?
I am trying to make a pointer and a mark on the pulley.



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Old 11-21-2015, 02:52 PM   #190
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Default Re: 59 AB engine rebuild

Quote:
Originally Posted by Macdozer View Post
Making head way on the rebuild. Crankshaft , camshaft, valves and all cylinders are in. Found something interesting today while looking through my book. The front oil slinger on the crankshaft ,there wasn't one there when I took the engine apart, i checked all the pictures I took and the oil slinger isn't there. I would like to get one to put in as they are probably there for a reason. Are the oil slingers for the flatheads all the same or are they different?


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The oil slinger is all the same 39-53, the earlier cranks have smaller diameter. Walt
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Old 11-21-2015, 04:02 PM   #191
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Default 59 AB engine rebuild

Looking At my head gaskets and wondering why this hole on the gasket is so small compared to what is in the head. See pics








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Old 11-21-2015, 04:18 PM   #192
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Default Re: 59 AB engine rebuild

The only way to find TDC with any accuracy is to use a dead stop on the #1 cylinder. Need a fairly stout piece of metal that is long enough to reach a bolt hole on either side of the cylinder. Drill a hole on each side for a bolt to go into a cylinder head bolt hole and drill and tap the center for a bolt to act as a stop. I would spacer up each side of the strap from the block to provide some clearance for the center bolt. Now rotate the engine until the #1 piston is stopped by the bolt. Mark the crank pulley somewhere near you want your pointer to end up. Now rotate the engine 180 degrees until the piston again touches the stop and mark the crank pulley. TDC is half way between these two marks. I would repeat this several time to be sure your marks are accurate.

The head gasket holes are sized to control coolant flow through the block and heads, don't mess with them.
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Old 11-27-2015, 03:33 PM   #193
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Default Re: 59 AB engine rebuild

Getting ready to install heads, the hole in the head gasket just seems small. And I want to be sure that this is ok.


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Old 11-27-2015, 04:26 PM   #194
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Default Re: 59 AB engine rebuild

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Getting ready to install heads, the hole in the head gasket just seems small. And I want to be sure that this is ok.


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It is not uncommon for head gasket coolant holes to be fairly small, it doesn't take much. A tiny hole in a thermostat can make a big difference.
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Old 11-27-2015, 04:35 PM   #195
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Default Re: 59 AB engine rebuild

Posted a photo of a copper head gasket if that helps any.
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Old 11-29-2015, 09:50 AM   #196
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Default Re: 59 AB engine rebuild

While installing the heads I started thinking about the distributor and the vacuum line. As I don't remember seeing one when I started working on the engine. I checked my pictures and there is no vacuum line. The timing cover has the hole for it but I don't see any where on the intake manifold for a vacuum line. The only vacuum line on the intake manifold is for the windshield wiper. Just under the carb.

I am using a 1945 to 48 distributor. I see there is a vac. Line part number 21A-12226 that is for engines 42-48. But not sure how I would hook it up. Does any one have any pictures of the vacuum lines on a 59ab engine or other advice.
With out the vacuum line how would the engine run at higher speeds ?



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Old 11-29-2015, 10:28 AM   #197
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Default Re: 59 AB engine rebuild

I think you need the Vacuum Tube Line with end part # 21A-12226 that fits to the manifold connection under the carburetor. The connection on the intake manifold takes the tube with a ring end from the vacuum brake on the distributor and the rubber tube from the windshield wiper.

Refer to the thread titled "intake manifold vacuum 59ab" dated 04-20-2013 by Thaplumbr. Also there is a good picture.
The Tube line can be purchased from Joe's Antique Auto, C&A and others.

The connection that screws into the manifold under the carburetor has a hole in it with 2 copper gaskets. This fitting I can not find on line.

You can test run the engine without the vacuum tube connected but you should hook up the tube and vacuum brake on the distributor later for better engine performance.
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Old 11-29-2015, 03:08 PM   #198
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Default Re: 59 AB engine rebuild

Does anyone know where I can find this fitting that's under the carb. And screws into the manifold. Looking for the one that allows connection for the vacuum line to the distributor "banjo" type and the the vacuum line to the windshield wiper.


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Old 11-29-2015, 03:24 PM   #199
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Default Re: 59 AB engine rebuild

Is this what youre looking for ?
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Old 11-29-2015, 04:05 PM   #200
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Default Re: 59 AB engine rebuild

Ha it should look like that but should have a hole in the side of it for the vacuum line part number 21a-12226 with the banjo type end. Where can I find one?


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