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Old 01-01-2018, 02:02 PM   #1
GB SISSON
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Default Heads for factory replacement block

The engine I'm assembling is a 59 block with .0825 pistons. Pretty much stock. For a 47 tonner pickup. The heads that came with the engine are marked 59ab, but one has a crack connecting 3 holes on the bottom. I have some heads and found some nice ones that are 9T and some just labled A. Yet another set has no Letter, just 77-6050 A at the bottom. All have round holes in the center water ports as does the block. None of my 59ab heads are as nice as the ones I just mentioned, but salvageable. Any real differences between them? Thanks.
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'47 1/2 ton pickup next project, '47 one ton panel 99% stock nearing completion, '47 2 ton with 8ba and 9' script stakebed, '46 1/2 ton woodie project,'59 F350 9' flareside pickup with cummins 6at. 'Rusty ol' floorboards, hot on their feet' (Alan Jackson)
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Old 01-01-2018, 02:14 PM   #2
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Default Re: Heads for factory replacement block

The 77-6050 A heads will be 21 stud won't they?
The 9T and A heads may need clearancing in the eyebrow region to clear the relocated position of the valves in the 59 block. I think the centre holes in those heads are slightly smaller than the 59A heads and can be drilled out to same size in an aid to improved cooling.
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Old 01-01-2018, 02:54 PM   #3
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Default Re: Heads for factory replacement block

The 77 heads are 21 stud.
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Old 01-01-2018, 03:53 PM   #4
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Default Re: Heads for factory replacement block

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Originally Posted by flatjack9 View Post
The 77 heads are 21 stud.
I guess I didn't look for that this morning when I dragged some out. I have wire wheeled the 99t heads and they are the best. How can I know it they have the clearance I need? I have new blue felpro gaskets can I measure from them somehow? Are you saying it's best to use 59ab heads if possible?
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'47 1/2 ton pickup next project, '47 one ton panel 99% stock nearing completion, '47 2 ton with 8ba and 9' script stakebed, '46 1/2 ton woodie project,'59 F350 9' flareside pickup with cummins 6at. 'Rusty ol' floorboards, hot on their feet' (Alan Jackson)
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Old 01-01-2018, 05:02 PM   #5
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Default Re: Heads for factory replacement block

59AB heads have the best compression ratio and cooling ability and should be around to be picked up reasonably.
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Old 01-01-2018, 06:27 PM   #6
GB SISSON
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Default Re: Heads for factory replacement block

Thank you all. Very valuable info. I had those 9T heads all ready to install until I came back in the house and read Brian's response about the eyebrow clearance at the valves. I set one on without a gasket and turned the engine over with a socket wrench and sure enough the head bumped up when contacted by a valve. Good thing I didn't just install them. This prompted me to venture deeper into my attic over the cabinetshop. Deeper than I've been in 20 years. I knew there was the remains of a cracked 59ab that came from a Nalley's pickle truck. Just behind the block was an excellent pair of 59ab heads. Very clean, original blue paint and no cracks that I can see. My cup brush has no wires left in it as they are all in my sweatshirt so tomorrow I will get a new one and clean and paint the heads. This will of course have the added benefit of looking factory correct in the '47 tonner. Happy New Year!
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'47 1/2 ton pickup next project, '47 one ton panel 99% stock nearing completion, '47 2 ton with 8ba and 9' script stakebed, '46 1/2 ton woodie project,'59 F350 9' flareside pickup with cummins 6at. 'Rusty ol' floorboards, hot on their feet' (Alan Jackson)
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Old 01-01-2018, 10:54 PM   #7
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Default Re: Heads for factory replacement block

Now that you have the heads, measure the clearance between the piston and head. This should be around .050. Have the heads milled for tis clearance. It's the cheapest preformance mod you can make.
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Old 01-02-2018, 10:13 AM   #8
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Default Re: Heads for factory replacement block

I may consider that Ron, but two things come to mind. That's two ferry trips to the mainland for the surfacing, and I have been doing some measuring with the head bolts I plan to use. All the bolts going into blind holes are dangerously close to bottoming out once the head is clamped down. There is about 1/16" extra room and that is without any squish on the gasket. At the point I'm at I plan to use 7/16 washers under each bolt for some insurance. The threads in the block cleaned up remarkably well, as did the bolt threads . Do I need to use hardened washers? What about lock washers instead? They are hard and have a small diameter. And lastly, there are two bolts per side that need an in between size (length) bolt. In my bucket of head bolts I only find one bolt of the intermediate size. Am I missing something?
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'47 1/2 ton pickup next project, '47 one ton panel 99% stock nearing completion, '47 2 ton with 8ba and 9' script stakebed, '46 1/2 ton woodie project,'59 F350 9' flareside pickup with cummins 6at. 'Rusty ol' floorboards, hot on their feet' (Alan Jackson)
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Old 01-02-2018, 07:58 PM   #9
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Default Re: Heads for factory replacement block

59's had studs not head bolts. If you're using 8ba head bolts that might be your problem. Just a thought.
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Old 01-02-2018, 08:29 PM   #10
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Default Re: Heads for factory replacement block

I know they were built that way originally. This one had been put together with headbolts and it seems some guys here like to use the bolts. For me it is also an economic decision as I have no good studs left after my last build. This afternoon I had a thought to insure good clamping force with head bolts. I found that there were slight differences in bolt length and shape of the bolt's end, as well as varying depths of the blind holes which are at the top of the block. I set the head on with no gasket and started testing my cleaned up bolt collection. When I mixed and matched I was able to thread all the bolts down to contact the head, or very nearly so. I'm thinking the longest bolts ended up in the blind holes. I was able to keep the bolts in their place and install the gasket. Right now they are just finger tight til I get to town tomorrow for some brush on permatex. Glad to need no washers, and get full thread engagement to boot. Gonna use Ol Ron's 45 lb torque.
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'47 1/2 ton pickup next project, '47 one ton panel 99% stock nearing completion, '47 2 ton with 8ba and 9' script stakebed, '46 1/2 ton woodie project,'59 F350 9' flareside pickup with cummins 6at. 'Rusty ol' floorboards, hot on their feet' (Alan Jackson)
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Old 01-03-2018, 12:17 AM   #11
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Default Re: Heads for factory replacement block

Dont forget to retorque the bolts unless you like doing head gaskets . Dont ask how I know
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Old 01-03-2018, 10:25 AM   #12
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Default Re: Heads for factory replacement block

Will do! I normally do this two times after the initial. By 1000 miles am I done re-torquing?
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Old 01-03-2018, 05:59 PM   #13
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Default Re: Heads for factory replacement block

I did not do mine and one side let go. Was leaking combustion into the cooling system.went from 0 to 275 degrees in 10 minutes. anyway put in a new composite gasket on the leaking side. Retorqued it at about 100 miles and did it again after another 150 miles,but then again I am not on an Island. By the way how big is the Island anyway. I would guess you never take the keys out of any of your vehicles.
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Old 01-03-2018, 09:49 PM   #14
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Default Re: Heads for factory replacement block

Quote:
Originally Posted by slowforty View Post
I did not do mine and one side let go. Was leaking combustion into the cooling system.went from 0 to 275 degrees in 10 minutes. anyway put in a new composite gasket on the leaking side. Retorqued it at about 100 miles and did it again after another 150 miles,but then again I am not on an Island. By the way how big is the Island anyway. I would guess you never take the keys out of any of your vehicles.
I think it's about 75 sq miles with maybe 4000 residents. Driving here is all about winding roads and rolling hills, interrupted by plenty of steep grades. On the few straightaways the speed limit jumps to 40 from the usual 35 and there are many (too many) stretches like through the State Park, where the speed limit is 25. It's actually a great place to break in a rebuilt flathead. As for keys, we never take them out or lock the vehicles. All my flathead powered vehicles just have a toggle or push-pull switch for the ignition. To stay on the topic of the post, after work I torqued my heads down to 50 lbs. No stiff bolts, no soft bolts. Now I'm pawing through my carbs and crabs and dusting off my run stand.
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Old 01-06-2018, 02:19 PM   #15
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Default Re: Heads for factory replacement block

The A letter heads are for the '39-'42 85 and 90 HP 59A engines. In '46 or somewhere thereabouts the valve location was changed (59AB). I have a nice pair of A heads that are milled to .060. Never had any clearance problem. Just forgot to drain the block before winter.(OOPS!) Resizing the water holes for better cooling is laid out in various service manuals. I can look up the application specs if you wish.
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Old 01-06-2018, 02:53 PM   #16
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Default Re: Heads for factory replacement block

Winding roads and rolling hills, yes, but a lovely place.
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Old 01-06-2018, 05:42 PM   #17
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Default Re: Heads for factory replacement block

When you retourque, do you loosen then retourque to 50 lbs.?.......Mark
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Old 01-06-2018, 10:13 PM   #18
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Default Re: Heads for factory replacement block

No just retorque to 50 lbs. The wrench I have has the click feature usually the second or third time is just one click
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Old 01-14-2018, 11:47 PM   #19
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Default Re: Heads for factory replacement block

Been running this thing with straight pipes. Too noisey so I dug some mufflers outa the back 40. Very quiet and there is no mechanical noise whatsoever. If this setup "ain't country I'll kiss your ass" (David Allen Coe)
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'47 1/2 ton pickup next project, '47 one ton panel 99% stock nearing completion, '47 2 ton with 8ba and 9' script stakebed, '46 1/2 ton woodie project,'59 F350 9' flareside pickup with cummins 6at. 'Rusty ol' floorboards, hot on their feet' (Alan Jackson)
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Old 01-15-2018, 12:04 AM   #20
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Default Re: Heads for factory replacement block

looks perfect!
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