59 Block with 3/16 bore

[V848 Ford]

I picked up a59 block with a 3/16 bore and .020 over and real rusty . Can this block be bored to 3.187 or will it run hot?

[52merc]

depends on how much meat there is in the water jacket get it sonic tested that will tell you all you need to know

[ford38v8]

Your 59 block with 3.0625 bore was a service replacement for those earlier blocks, and can be safely bored as any 59 block with 3.875 bore can be.

[JWL]

I've never seen any 59 block with 3.875 bore. But, would like to.

The 3 1/16 bore blocks can usually be safely bored to 3 3/16 but that is about the limit. They CANNOT be bored the same as the 3 3/16 blocks of the 59 series.

[JM 35 Sedan]

I know this post is on the 59 series blocks, but just wanted to mention that on the earlier 3-1/16" (3.0625") 21 stud blocks, up to '36, they can usually be safely bored up to 0.060" over, and in some cases maybe up to 0.080" over. The later 21 stud 3-1/16" blocks, '37 to E'38 can usually be safely bored to 3-3/16" (3.1875") maybe a little more. Some of the key words here are "SAFELY" and "USUALLY". I am sure others will say they have pushed the limlts of the envelope and bored these engines beyond these dimensions.

[V8COOPMAN]

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Originally Posted by ford38v8

Your 59 block with 3.0625 bore was a service replacement for those earlier blocks, and can be safely bored as any 59 block with 3.875 bore can be.

WOW...That would equate to 354" with a Ford crank, and 377" with a Merc...gi-hugic flattys. We can wish! DD

[bobH]

Originally Posted by V848 Ford

I picked up a59 block with a 3/16 bore and .020 over and real rusty . Can this block be bored to 3.187 or will it run hot?

I'm puzzled by the question, and especially by the answers already posted. No, it can't be bored to a size .020 UNDER what it already is.
And, they all 'run hot', so I suppose this one will, too.

[ford38v8]

OOPS! Two typos don't equal the right bore size, do they? Haha, I'd like to get one of those too! I meant 3.185, of course. I won't edit my previous typo, for the benefit of those who'd enjoy a laugh more than additional puzzlement!

About the issue of possibly running hot, the answer to that is yes, any bore greater than original will run hotter than as original, as the less meat between fire and water means poorer heat dissipation to the surrounding area, AKA hot spots. That's not if there are hot spots, because there certainly are hot spots, which would become more troublesome with a larger bore.

[Ol' Ron]

This myth about running hot is just that, a myth. However with that said, we can go back to the early days when the standard over bore was 3 3/8. Most early 59 engines were bunched out to 265 ci and the merc crank brought them up to 286 ci. With a good radiator and fan they never over hrated.
Fast forwart 50 years and the internal water passages have rusted and prevent proper cooling. Bake cleaning is one way to eliminat this problem and is what I did for the 15 years I was building engines. At least 90% were bored to 3 5/16, my present engine is 3 5/16 + .020" The 294ci runs at 170 degs. Yes you can expect overheating if you don't glean out the block and radiator.

[4tford]

I recently purchased a scope to look inside the water jackets of blocks. The first one I checked was one I had hot tanked and magnafluxed. I had then spent the better part of a day cleaning the water jackets. When I though it was as clean as I could get it I used the scope. I was surprised by what I found. The water jacket did indeed look very clean. BUT there was an area between the cylinder wall and the outside of the block on a couple of cylinders that was plugged solid from the bottom of the cylinder up almost 6 inches and half an inch or more wide. I tried to break it loose with coat hangers and other such items to no avail. I ended up using a foot long 3/16 inch drill bit to drill it out. I was able to finally dig out an amazing amount of crud. I have since found this in numerous other blocks. Definitely a good reason for poor flow and overheating. Bill

[OLD...BILL]

Originally Posted by V848 Ford

I picked up a59 block with a 3/16 bore and .020 over and real rusty . Can this block be bored to 3.187 or will it run hot?

I think your asking can this block be saved ?? YES... 3&-5/16 is a good place to go and still save some for the next build?? and have we all forgotten about SLEEVES ?? ain't cheep but doable, and yes it MAY run warmer, but hot you haft to build for it. ie good radiator, pumps. and pressure (4 lbs) fan and maybe shrould spelling ?? .... NOTE: I think I will forget to ask some of you guys "how big is big is your engine".... hee...hee .... OLD....BILL

[itslow]

Originally Posted by ford38v8

OOPS! Two typos don't equal the right bore size, do they? Haha, I'd like to get one of those too! I meant 3.185, of course. I won't edit my previous typo, for the benefit of those who'd enjoy a laugh more than additional puzzlement!

You're math is still wrong.

3-3/16" = 3.1875" (stock bore)

3.1875" + .020" = 3.2075" (your current overbore)

[Pete]

Acid stripping is about the only way to be sure the water jacket is bare metal clean.
There are variations of this method, one being the use of electrolysis in conjunction with the acid.
Mechanical methods of cleaning are impossible to get everywhere in the water areas.

Old Bill, in answer to your question, "how big is big is your engine?", my last one was 324 ci. The next wili be 345.

[ford38v8]

Originally Posted by itslow

You're math is still wrong.

3-3/16" = 3.1875" (stock bore)

3.1875" + .020" = 3.2075" (your current overbore)

That's not my math, that's my CRS and my typos again!

[bobH]

Originally Posted by Pete

Acid stripping is about the only way to be sure the water jacket is bare metal clean.
There are variations of this method, one being the use of electrolysis in conjunction with the acid.
Mechanical methods of cleaning are impossible to get everywhere in the water areas.

Old Bill, in answer to your question, "how big is big is your engine?", my last one was 324 ci. The next wili be 345.

Regarding acid stripping... Be Very Careful. I won't say 'don't do it', but if you do, be sure to monitor the process, and be aware of what happens if the uninformed employees put it in, then go away for a day or two, or longer. I could bore you with my story, and also the same thing happened to a V8 friend. I lost a block to acid dipping - one that I had almost $1K in. What I've been told more recently, and after mine was ruined, is that our local guy should only have it in his tank for a few HOURS. It's the sort of thing where we should take it in in the morning, go have lunch, and pick it up the same afternoon. It's the only way we can be sure that our local guy will not ruin it.

[38 coupe]

I have seen the bake, blast, and shake method delivered an amazingly clean block. Has anyone ever seen problems with it?

[Ol' Ron]

Bake cleaning is all I use, but you still have to check them.

[Pete]

Originally Posted by 38 coupe

I have seen the bake, blast, and shake method delivered an amazingly clean block. Has anyone ever seen problems with it?

Yes.

[JWL]

I like the "bake-n-shake" cleaning process. But, just like any other system, it must be done properly to be effective. That means the proper temperature for the proper time period and the proper final steps. Many of the blocks I have seen would be destroyed in the acid bath by the time the build-up of crud at the inner pan rail, upward, has been dissolved. The proper baking operation will turn it to dust and it will fall out during the blasting and rotating phase.

As an aside, I sold(donated)a beautiful V-12 Lincoln engine to a friend for a restoration project. In preparation for the rebuild the block went to the acid tank. Upon removal it was a piece of scrap. All surfaces had been reduced in size. The cam and main bearing housings were too big. The tappet bores were too big. The threaded holes were too loose. The thrust faces were undersize. It would have been a MAJOR job to save it. As pointed out by a previous contributor---be careful, VERY CAREFUL, if using acid.

[Rowdy]

I hope I can get this 37 block bored to 3 3/16". The real question after that is can I find some 37-38 21 stud heads for dome top pistons, but will cross that bridge when I get to it. Rod