The Ford Barn

oldbugger · 11-11-2011, 07:31 AM

Joe, thanks that looks like something even I could make.

Zaemo · 11-11-2011, 07:58 AM

Thanks for clarifying, David. It's a little hard to tell if the shoulder is in the same position.
I'll have to make a bracket myself, too.
Z

Zaemo · 11-11-2011, 08:06 AM

Thanks Strick, hopefully see you soon.

Z

Quote:

Originally Posted by Strick

Z - cool avatar. can't wait to see it in person. check out av8paul's old post in the classified....

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showth...ht=steady+rods

gearhead1952 · 11-11-2011, 11:12 AM

[QUOTE=Joe KCMO;304538]

Quote:

Originally Posted by gearhead1952

I would be interested in seeing your solution and maybe a pic and/or pattern. Thanks

Gearhead52,

Here is what I am using. Instructions written on pattern. One bolts on each side of the bell housing. Puts a chatter rod mounting hole on a 8BA where there used to be a whole on 48 and down.

Thanks for the pic.

frederic · 11-11-2011, 07:40 PM

do they use these same "anti chatter rods" on the fat body 42-48's also. I have one that chatters bad but i think it is caused from someone using auto trans fluid in the trans and it leaked onto clutch. But not sure.

Frederic

Strick · 11-11-2011, 09:20 PM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

I believe 1941 was the last year anti chatter rods were used.

sturgis 39 · 11-11-2011, 11:29 PM

There is no slip joint in the closed drive line. The model "A" engines were bolted solid to the frame at the rear of the engine. The v8 engines were mounted on rubber mounts. The modern cars with open drive shafts have a slip joint or a male-female spline connection. The rear end tries to move the engine forwards and backwards when accelerating, going over curbs, bumps in the road etc. with a closed drive line, The rods prevent this movement with a closed drive line. Parallel springs try to move the engine too. The splines protect the engine and transmission from forward and backward forces from the rear end movement.

Zaemo · 11-16-2011, 12:53 AM

This gentleman makes the bracket for the chatter rods. There are two styles; one for the stamped bell housing and one for a cast one. I have a pair on the way.

These brackets allow you to use your steady rods (anti chatter) when installing a 49-53 Ford V8 in an early Ford chassis.
$40 pr + $5 shipping

Mark Seitz
5345 Parkman Rd N.W.
Warren, Ohio 44481

tel# 330-980-0636

Z

frederic · 11-16-2011, 09:46 AM

Did they use these anti-chatter rods on the 42-48 bodies and engines ??

thanks

frederic

Ol' Ron · 11-16-2011, 04:28 PM

At one time you could get an adapter for the front motor mounts that did the same thing.

rotorwrench · 11-16-2011, 06:10 PM

Begining in 1942, the rear engine/trans mount was beefed up quite a bit. When in good condition, it will hold the load. Some folks felt that they should have kept the radius rods through 1948 for cars.

Kerby

Working Class Zero · 09-26-2012, 12:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sturgis 39

There is no slip joint in the closed drive line. The model "A" engines were bolted solid to the frame at the rear of the engine. The v8 engines were mounted on rubber mounts. The modern cars with open drive shafts have a slip joint or a male-female spline connection. The rear end tries to move the engine forwards and backwards when accelerating, going over curbs, bumps in the road etc. with a closed drive line, The rods prevent this movement with a closed drive line. Parallel springs try to move the engine too. The splines protect the engine and transmission from forward and backward forces from the rear end movement.

Are you saying then, that it is able to move forward and aft slightly without the rods because of the rubber at the rear Trans mount being able to slightly flex and move? And of course the front rubber motor mounts. Been trying to figure out how the rods help and I think I know get it? Is this correct? At first I thought how can it move it's solid bolted to the center crossmember. Must be cause of the rubber at that spot?

Tom Walker · 09-26-2012, 03:32 AM

I'm new to this, but these rods seem to be an afterthought to cure a design flaw. I've got them but they dont stop the "chatter" (more like a horrible judder on my Tudor). I was wondering if a later clutch would solve the problem, so you dont even need the bars?

sturgis 39 · 09-26-2012, 04:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tom Walker

I'm new to this, but these rods seem to be an afterthought to cure a design flaw. I've got them but they dont stop the "chatter" (more like a horrible judder on my Tudor). I was wondering if a later clutch would solve the problem, so you dont even need the bars?

The chatter can be caused by broken motor mount or mounts. I would check the motor mounts before changing the clutch. Make sure your rods are tight.

B_man_Al · 09-26-2012, 09:22 PM

The 32 4 cylinder needs the rods to hold the motor mount bracket in line with the motor mounts. These need to be properly adjusted for length to ensure the motor mount bolt is properly aligned and not in contact with the crossmember, to keep the vibration down, and let the soft rubber mount do its job.

11-11-2011, 07:31 AM	#21
oldbugger Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Holland Mi Posts: 640	Re: Engine steady rods Joe, thanks that looks like something even I could make.

11-11-2011, 07:58 AM	#22
Zaemo BANNED Join Date: May 2010 Location: Atlanta, GA Posts: 241	Re: Engine steady rods Thanks for clarifying, David. It's a little hard to tell if the shoulder is in the same position. I'll have to make a bracket myself, too. Z __________________ WANTED: 1932 Front X-Member 1932 Rumble Seat Back Spring Cushion- Roadster 32-34 Roadster Windshield Cones Original 32 Straight Rear Spreader Bar

11-11-2011, 07:40 PM	#25
frederic Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2011 Posts: 350	Re: Engine steady rods do they use these same "anti chatter rods" on the fat body 42-48's also. I have one that chatters bad but i think it is caused from someone using auto trans fluid in the trans and it leaked onto clutch. But not sure. Frederic

11-11-2011, 09:20 PM	#26
Strick Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Marietta, GA Posts: 1,099	Re: Engine steady rods Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) I believe 1941 was the last year anti chatter rods were used.

11-11-2011, 11:29 PM	#27
sturgis 39 Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Lead. South Dakota Posts: 963	Re: Engine steady rods There is no slip joint in the closed drive line. The model "A" engines were bolted solid to the frame at the rear of the engine. The v8 engines were mounted on rubber mounts. The modern cars with open drive shafts have a slip joint or a male-female spline connection. The rear end tries to move the engine forwards and backwards when accelerating, going over curbs, bumps in the road etc. with a closed drive line, The rods prevent this movement with a closed drive line. Parallel springs try to move the engine too. The splines protect the engine and transmission from forward and backward forces from the rear end movement. __________________ IF IT CAN NOT BE FIXED WITH BLASTING WIRE, JB WELD OR DUCT TAPE ---IT CAN NOT BE FIXED Do not get me started on the stupidity of ethanol. I think one of the monitors is from Iowa and he will delete the thread.

11-16-2011, 12:53 AM	#28
Zaemo BANNED Join Date: May 2010 Location: Atlanta, GA Posts: 241	Re: Engine steady rods This gentleman makes the bracket for the chatter rods. There are two styles; one for the stamped bell housing and one for a cast one. I have a pair on the way. These brackets allow you to use your steady rods (anti chatter) when installing a 49-53 Ford V8 in an early Ford chassis. $40 pr + $5 shipping Mark Seitz 5345 Parkman Rd N.W. Warren, Ohio 44481 tel# 330-980-0636 Z __________________ WANTED: 1932 Front X-Member 1932 Rumble Seat Back Spring Cushion- Roadster 32-34 Roadster Windshield Cones Original 32 Straight Rear Spreader Bar

11-16-2011, 09:46 AM	#29
frederic Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2011 Posts: 350	Re: Engine steady rods Did they use these anti-chatter rods on the 42-48 bodies and engines ?? thanks frederic

11-16-2011, 04:28 PM	#30
Ol' Ron Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Chester Vt Posts: 8,860	Re: Engine steady rods At one time you could get an adapter for the front motor mounts that did the same thing.

11-16-2011, 06:10 PM	#31
rotorwrench Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 16,431	Re: Engine steady rods Begining in 1942, the rear engine/trans mount was beefed up quite a bit. When in good condition, it will hold the load. Some folks felt that they should have kept the radius rods through 1948 for cars. Kerby

09-26-2012, 03:32 AM	#33
Tom Walker Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Leicester. UK Posts: 404	Re: Engine steady rods I'm new to this, but these rods seem to be an afterthought to cure a design flaw. I've got them but they dont stop the "chatter" (more like a horrible judder on my Tudor). I was wondering if a later clutch would solve the problem, so you dont even need the bars?

09-26-2012, 09:22 PM	#35
B_man_Al Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Ottawa ON Canada Posts: 301	Re: Engine steady rods The 32 4 cylinder needs the rods to hold the motor mount bracket in line with the motor mounts. These need to be properly adjusted for length to ensure the motor mount bolt is properly aligned and not in contact with the crossmember, to keep the vibration down, and let the soft rubber mount do its job.