Modern engine

[Neshkoro]

Does anyone know of a late model 4 cylinder or V-6 that would bolt up to the Model A bell housing? I'd like to keep the rest of the drive train.
Thanks

[Russ B]

The new Terry Burtz engine

[eagle]

With the new model A engine being produced now, its not really necessary. If your thinking increased performance there are lots of mods that can be done to give you pretty much any level of performance you may wish for, within reason. Any replacement engines such as the chevy II motor or pinto motor sounds like are NOT "bolt right up". However, I don't have any first hand knowledge on that. Plenty of knowledgeable people will chime in soon though.

[KGBnut]

While I will admit I am a fan of keeping things original, I'm sure you have your reasons.

If you haven't already done so, Check the H.A.M.B. site. They have more people doing drive train modifications.

Do you mind if I ask why you want to remove the Model A engine and keep everything else?

Ken

[Neshkoro]

It’s like this. From the bell housing back things get complicated. The enclosed drive line, clutch and brake pedal make it much more of a project. I certainly can do it if I had to. In one way it would be easier to put in a complete newer drive line. Then there’s the mechanical vs juice brakes. That leads to the front end. Updating the front axle means hydraulic brakes and an updated axle. New steering components, etc.
I like driving the Model A. Shifting gears and all that. That’s the part I would hate to give up!

[Gil Sissons]

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Neshkoro
Private message sent
Gil. NoCal

[rotorwrench]

Most folks end up changing the whole drive train to install a modern set up. That sort of turns the car into a resto-mod or street rod. HAMBers would prefer the flathead V8 or AV8 conversion in the style of the early hot rods.

The model A engine is 200 cubic inches and with the modern change of bottom end to replaceable bearings, counter-balanced crankshaft, and a fully pressurized oiling system, makes for a pretty impressive hot rod or speedster motor.

[KGBnut]

Originally Posted by Neshkoro

It’s like this. From the bell housing back things get complicated. The enclosed drive line, clutch and brake pedal make it much more of a project. I certainly can do it if I had to. In one way it would be easier to put in a complete newer drive line. Then there’s the mechanical vs juice brakes. That leads to the front end. Updating the front axle means hydraulic brakes and an updated axle. New steering components, etc.
I like driving the Model A. Shifting gears and all that. That’s the part I would hate to give up!

Please don't think I am trying to be argumentative... I'm not. I'm just trying to understand. You want to change your car so that it is mostly original, except the engine. What is it that you are hoping to get out of the modern engine? Are you having reliability problems? Want more power? Just want to see if it can be done?

Again, just curious. It is your car...enjoy it the way you want.

Best of luck with your project,

Ken

[Neshkoro]

I was thinking along the lines of it being more modern. Things like a vacuum advance distributor, modern carburetor, maybe a bit more power. I like shifting gears. Not too happy with the fact there are no syncros in the transmission. When you start to change all of that, the end result becomes an entire drive train swap. Then the issue of mechanical brakes come into play.. There's no end to the changes.

[Ruth]

Originally Posted by rotorwrench

Most folks end up changing the whole drive train to install a modern set up. That sort of turns the car into a resto-mod or street rod. HAMBers would prefer the flathead V8 or AV8 conversion in the style of the early hot rods.

The model A engine is 200 cubic inches and with the modern change of bottom end to replaceable bearings, counter-balanced crankshaft, and a fully pressurized oiling system, makes for a pretty impressive hot rod or speedster motor.

I know a guy that went the flathead V-8 route in his Woodie (heavy car). He gained 39 ci, got a little more hp and lost a lot of torque. He is not too happy with his decision.

Sometimes "improvements" don't always improve your car.

[denniskliesen]

I was told they overheated when pulling steep grades. Not my experience, I was just told from a few old timers.

[ronn]

why not sell your car and buy a "done" car. alot easier...........

[jayvee34]

Originally Posted by Neshkoro

I was thinking along the lines of it being more modern. Things like a vacuum advance distributor, modern carburetor, maybe a bit more power. I like shifting gears. Not too happy with the fact there are no syncros in the transmission. When you start to change all of that, the end result becomes an entire drive train swap. Then the issue of mechanical brakes come into play.. There's no end to the changes.

I don't have a vacuum advance, but I did go with a Nu-Rex centrifugal advance.
Don't have to mess with the advance lever, set to 0 degree advance and leave it
there. Very happy with the results.

[Neshkoro]

I've heard good and bad things about the modern Nu-Rex distributor plates.
I guess if you have had good luck with them, you like them. If they didn't work well for you, you won't be happy!

[jayvee34]

[QUOTE=Neshkoro;2012332]I've heard good and bad things about the modern Nu-Rex distributor plates.
I guess if you have had good luck with them, you like them. If they didn't work well for you, you won't be happy![/QUOTE

Along with the timing kit (centrifugal advance kit) I have the distributor with the modern plate and points. Could not be happier with the performace.

[Neshkoro]

jayvee34,
Do you have the Zipper distributor? They're kind of pricy!

[alexiskai]

I think he means the Nu-Rex automatic advance accessory.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by Neshkoro

jayvee34,
Do you have the Zipper distributor? They're kind of pricy!

I've heard good and bad things about the modern Nu-Rex distributor plates.
I guess if you have had good luck with them, you like them. If they didn't work well for you, you won't be happy!

If you are looking for a 'self-advancing' distributor, a cheaper alternative over the Zipper is a Model-B distributor. Neither of those are vacuum controlled.

I am not sure where you heard that the Nu-Rex plates were a problem, but I would expect that you heard that from one of the social media Model-A sites. Just remember that most of the info (e.g: 80% +/-) you read on those sites is incorrect.

One last thing, there are many ways that you can increase the performance of a Model-A engine however that really was not your question. The biggest issue from my perspective is you said "...a late model4-cylinder or V-6 that will bolt up to the bellhousing. The issue with that is when you consider that most late model era 4 & 6 cylinder engines manufactured within the last couple of decades have been computer operated, this, -along with the ability to manufacture an adapter plate to couple one of those engines onto a Model-A transmission is WAY beyond the skillset of most Model-A hobbyists/restorers. Can it be done? Yes. Will it cost more than the average hobbyist wants to invest?? Absolutely Yes.

.
.

[dean from bozeman]

Neshkoro,

You stated, 'I like shifting gears. Not too happy with the fact there are no syncros in the transmission.'

If you like driving your "A" but don't like to drive with the non-synchronous transmission then consider a Mitchell Synchronized Transmission. Besides mastering the art of double clutching, a synchronized transmission might be all you need.

You also stated, 'When you start to change all of that, the end result becomes an entire drive train swap. Then the issue of mechanical brakes come into play.. There's no end to the changes. '

Unless you have the vision, the talent and deep pockets you may want to keep the words of Ruth and Ronn in mind.

Ruth, 'Sometimes "improvements" don't always improve your car.'

Ronn, 'why not sell your car and buy a "done" car. alot easier...........'

[Neshkoro]

All very true words!!