Starter issue

[flash9376]

Okay, so I've been having an issue with my starter that has me stumped. I've read through the forums and can't find anything that addresses my specific issue so I thought I'd just ask. SO here it is:

Simply, my starter won't turn over the engine. I have a new battery and a new starter. The starter turns when its off the car and hooked straight to the battery. When it's on the car, I get nothing, somethings it makes a noise like its trying to spin, some times nothing. I has tried it with the switch on, nothing, I've taken the switch off, nothing, I've taken the battery cables off and used a pair of jumper cables to go from the battery right to the starter, nothing. I did test it on the car with a 12 volt battery and the starter struggled a great deal to turn the engine. Took the plugs out, same issue. Took the starter off the car and tested it again and it works fine. I'm thinking there's a bad ground or something is shorting somewhere, but even with nothing connected, no wired, etc, just jumper cables from the battery to the starter, its struggles a great deal or doesn't work at all.

The lights are not hooked up, I get a spark when I hand-crank it, the starter just won't turn the engine, but works fine off the car. New starter, new battery, I'm out of ideas. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[flash9376]

It's a 1930 Tudor by the way.

[Joe K]

Ground issue?


Joe K

[Bob C]

Take a voltage reading at the battery and the starter while cranking the engine.


Bob

[CWPASADENA]

Is this something that happened all the sudden where the starter would not turn over the engine?


Is the engine itself too tight? Can it easily be turned over with the crank with the plugs out.


It may not actually be the starter.


I think we need more information.


Chris W

[1crosscut]

You say it is a new starter. Is this something that was purchased from a vendor or from another source?
When you say "new" I picture a starter that has been completely gone through, new armature, wiring, brushes etc...
If this is the case something may have been done wrong during the rebuild and probably nothing you are doing will solve the trouble as it will need to be opened back up by a shop that does this kind of work to see what the problem is.

Was your car having problems with starting that caused you to get a new starter?

If the engine freshly painted and the area on the flywheel housing isn't bare metal where the starter fits up against it grounding could very well be your trouble. I mask this area and the same area on the starter while painting to assure a that there is bare metal contact between the starter and engine.

Try removing your starter switch and put the negative cable to it and ground your positive against the side of the starter.
If you starter is freshly painted getting a good ground will be difficult unless you clean a spot down to bare metal.

[Marshall V. Daut]

Check your private messages.
Marshall

[Tom Wesenberg]

The 3 starter mounting bolts are 1", and NO longer, or they can hit the flywheel.

[Patrick L.]

Will the engine start when you hand crank it ?

Have you checked/cleaned the battery cable/frame ground connection ?

[katy]

I have a new battery

Is the battery fully charged?
Sometimes even a new battery will be defective.

[Purdy Swoft]

If the initial timing is set TOO advanced it will cause the starter to kick back and act like a starter problem or a weak battery .

[fastroadster]

Check your grounds..... on battery as well as on frame.

[Fred K-OR]

Originally Posted by fastroadster

Check your grounds..... on battery as well as on frame.

I will 2X this idea.

[vic]

I had a similar issue....finally traced it down to a faulty battery cut off switch...cleaned up the switch contacts and Bingo ...just another opinion

[Synchro909]

This could be any one of a hundred things like a dirty commutator to dirty contacts in the switch or battery terminals. I suggest you start at one battery terminal and follow everything through, checking and cleaning as you go. When you get back to the other terminal, you should have it fixed. I think we can eliminate the battery if you get the same thing with a different one.

[Benson]

Was the dowel pin retainer plate installed under four flywheel bolts?

Are bolts too long?

[Joe K]

Originally Posted by Fred K-OR

I will 2X this idea.

VERY common on a restoration to restore TOO much - or at least the wrong places - and create paint insulators at all the bolted joints between the starter mounting flange and the battery ground strap.

I would try connecting a jumper cable (one lead) between the starter body somehow (one MIGHT try to a starter mounting bolt) and the battery ground post. This will bypass all of these painted joints and restore the "goes back to" connection.

Joe K

[holdover]

If you can turn it over easily with the crank, when the plugs are in, it is not an engine problem or bolts interfering (remember starter bolts no longer than 1"). As to the starter when you bench check it it is not under load and can/will turn. If something is defective inside to not allow it to have any torque when attached to the engine, you will have to dig a bit deeper. As to the battery, have you tried jumping it from a known good battery, say your daily driver? If it won't turn over with a known good 12 volt battery, it most likely be your starter. Make sure your contacts a good both positive and negative to bare metal. Good luck, wish I was there to help....


remember a volt meter will only give voltage, to check the battery properly you need a battery load tester, about $20-30 at harbor freight

[flash9376]

Had the new battery checked again at a different store, turns out it was bad, got a new new one, starter works fine. Thanks for all the feedback.

[Synchro909]

Originally Posted by flash9376

Had the new battery checked again at a different store, turns out it was bad, got a new new one, starter works fine. Thanks for all the feedback.

Thanks for the feedback. Another one in the "OUT" tray.