Fuel line ferrule

[ken ct]

That would be the cheapest way out ,buy a new line. ken ct

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Originally Posted by Ross/Kzoo

I'm thinking that it would be part #13490 on pg 58 in Brattons catalog.

I think that you're right Bill, about one side not having the taper on that ferrule. I may try removing most of the taper on one side.

Ross, you don't need to modify the taper on the ferrule itself. The sorta' rounded surface is on the nut itself & pushes just on the angled side of the ferrule. Bill W.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Dog here, And now, have we completed FERRULES-101?
What mind stimulating subject will we do next? Motor Oils, Timing, Anti Freeze, Gear Oils, Frame Sag, those dreaded FAM's, Alternators, Torque Specs, etc, have ALL been exhausted, along with exact procedures on replacing the Muffler Bearing! Buster T.

[Ross/Kzoo]

Originally Posted by BILL WILLIAMSON

Dog here, And now, have we completed FERRULES-101?
What mind stimulating subject will we do next? Motor Oils, Timing, Anti Freeze, Gear Oils, Frame Sag, those dreaded FAM's, Alternators, Torque Specs, etc, have ALL been exhausted, along with exact procedures on replacing the Muffler Bearing! Buster T.

Bill, I was thinking cotter pins!

[ken ct]

Same here do NOT modify ferrels,they will work out of the box. ken ct.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

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Originally Posted by Ross/Kzoo

Bill, I was thinking cotter pins!

OH NO! Ross, I got in more trouble on that thread from smart a**ed remarks I made, and won't repeat! Some purists didn't interpret my remarks as "humor"! I don't think I was ever forgiven for calling Ol' Henry cheap, when it came to buying cotter keys. It was almost as if I had offended GOD! Ol' Henry wasn't perfect, either. Bill W.

[dnkcurtis]

No one mentioned that the tubing must extend beyond the end of the fitting, putting the Ferrule back from the end of the tubing. About a 1/4" or so.

[Purdy Swoft]

When the ferrule snaps off the fitting and fail they are usually junk and are not going to be re usable.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Originally Posted by Purdy Swoft

When the ferrule snaps off the fitting and fail they are usually junk and are not going to be re usable.

Well, Brother Purdy, I'll find out tomorrow. Have a new gas line with "that" kind of fittings. I feel that if they are really "squeezed" down good, that they will be as re-usable as regular ferrules. Maybe they're tougher brass than the usual ferrules & take a little more OOMPAH! & a smear of grease to get them mated to the line well. They're designed to "pop" loose from the fitting when tightened to "squeeze" on the line. Bill W. (Even REAL brothers don't always agree on everything!)

[sonny30coupe]

I just bought one of those sediment bowls and when I tightened up the nut on the setiment bowl the ferrule got pushed up into the outlet and I had to dig it out of there with a drill bit. I dont think it will seal now.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Possibly, these "new fangled" fittings might not pan out & so back to the regular fittings. MAIN thing, through this long thread is that we don't want someone to have a GAS FIRE & destroy their car!! Bill W.

[Tom Wesenberg]

I also don't like the attached ferrule. You have to crank on the fitting until just before stripping the carb threads before the ferrule finally breaks off. I fixed a guys carb problem a couple years ago, when his car kept running out of gas. He had the nut only snug and had a bunch of teflon tape wrapped on the ferrule. The teflon tape was plugging the inlet, so I removed it and really cranked on the nut before the ferrule finally broke off and squeezed tight to the fuel line. That fixed his fuel leak and fuel blockage.

[Mitch//pa]

On the one piece break off ferrules i have been scoring them a little more with a small hacksaw blade so they break off easier when tightened. They seem to be made with a little to much material connecting them at the break point..

[Joe K]

Originally Posted by BILL WILLIAMSON

Possibly, these "new fangled" fittings might not pan out & so back to the regular fittings. MAIN thing, through this long thread is that we don't want someone to have a GAS FIRE & destroy their car!! Bill W.

Copper tubing? Works for the still.

Joe K

[Ross/Kzoo]

Success thanks to Bill W. I used the normal ferrule that has approx. 20 degree angle on both sides and generously used petroleum jelly on the ferrule and then tightened. I noticed that the ferrule at the carb was the normal 20 degree angle on one end and approx 45 degree angle on the other but since I didn't have that one I used the one that I did have. NO LEAKS. Thanks all and especially Bill W. I'll get the correct when I can find one.

[dean333]

I bought a new gas line from the carb to the pump, when I installed it I couldn’t get it to stop leaking at the pump. When I took the line back off, the ferrule at the pump end was lying loose in the pump. I noticed a tiny nick on the ferrule so I got a new ferrule. I can’t get the new ferrule to seat on the line where the line should stick out at the end at least 1/32”. Subsequently I can’t tighten the line enough to get it to not leak, there’s no more threads left to tighten.

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by dean333

I bought a new gas line from the carb to the pump, when I installed it I couldn’t get it to stop leaking at the pump. When I took the line back off, the ferrule at the pump end was lying loose in the pump. I noticed a tiny nick on the ferrule so I got a new ferrule. I can’t get the new ferrule to seat on the line where the line should stick out at the end at least 1/32”. Subsequently I can’t tighten the line enough to get it to not leak, there’s no more threads left to tighten.

Snyder's has oversize ferrules that may help you seal your gas line. https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/p...9363&cat=41707

[JayJay]

I know you’re not supposed to do it, but I have been known to smear a light coat of thread sealant on the ferrule and on the threads of the compression nut when assembling. If nothing else it lubricates when you are tightening the nut to swedge the ferrule to the tubing, and helps prevent stripping out the pot metal on the sediment bowl.

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by dean333

I can’t tighten the line enough to get it to not leak, there’s no more threads left to tighten.

Originally Posted by JayJay

I know you’re not supposed to do it, but I have been known to smear a light coat of thread sealant on the ferrule and on the threads of the compression nut when assembling. If nothing else it lubricates when you are tightening the nut to swedge the ferrule to the tubing, and helps prevent stripping out the pot metal on the sediment bowl.

Maybe, but if the nut does not tighten on the ferrule, what is going to hold the line in?

[JayJay]

Originally Posted by Y-Blockhead

Maybe, but if the nut does not tighten on the ferrule, what is going to hold the line in?

I think those are two separate issues.