Choke/GAV rod misalignment to carburetor

[katy]

Here’s the story: purchased this vehicle in May, it'a a '31 CCPU, (Heinz 57 model).
The engine was sitting about 3/8” – 1/2” too high, could tell because the crank nut was higher than the opening to insert the crank. The front motor mount was cojoined conical springs with rubber inserts that were as hard as the hubs of hell, replaced w/original style springs kit. Rear mounts are float-a motor and had 3/8” spacers under them which I removed. Also installed missing .010" shims at top rear of block where the flywheel housing bolts up. Seems OK, crank now goes straight into the crank nut. When I went to start the engine to go for a test drive to see if the vibration level had decreased the choke was very hard to pull out and didn’t want to turn. Upon investigation I discovered that the choke/GAV rod doesn’t line up w/the apparatus on the carburetor. See attached picture.
Is this the correct carb for a model A? Any other suggestions? Other than filing the hole in the firewall?

TIA, Ken

[Jwilli]

Could that possibly be a B intake manifold? Can't see enough to be sure. More pictures would help.

[Kurt in NJ]

Something looks funny with the oil return pipe too

it could be that the float a motor has the rear of the engine low, it could also be that the front of the cab is high ---need more pictures

[700rpm]

Do you have a Zenith carb you could try?

[Big hammer]

Choke rod and carb rod look to be in the same plan Is cab high or motor low?

[Marshall V. Daut]

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Remove the accelerator rod from the carb's butterfly arm, take a vise-grip and gently bend the butterfly arm outwards to clear the choke rod. It may be that the arm somehow got pushed inward. 'Hard to tell from the photo. Even if the intake were a Model "B" with its slight twist, the choke rod can still be mated with the carb's choke driver, albeit at a slight tork.
Marshall

[Tom Wesenberg]

I also noticed the oil return pipe. I'd remove the clamp and rubber hose and solder the end cap to the pipe, like original. Solder it in place, so the ends line up perfectly.

[Fred K-OR]

Could it be a "B" carb? I know when I had a B carb on my huckster, the rod did not line up very good and it was hard to turn the GAV. Is it a "tilly" carb or maybe one of the non standard "Western Auto" type of carb?

[barnstuf]

The fact that the carburetor is bolted to the intake manifold by a bolt and nut indicates to me that the threads in the carburetor are stripped as normal mounting is a bolt only. This would not affect the misalignment.

[Ron in Quincy]

Your carb is a replacement Tilletson. The original carb would be a ZENITH-! or ZENITH-2 (Holley).

I believe you may have one of two problems: (1) your floater motor mounts may be allowing the engine to set to low at the rear or (2) your frame may be bent down at the rear motor mounts, not uncommon after 80 years, if the frame is bent down a good indicator is your hood alien'ment to radiator shell and cowl.

Ron

[Brentwood Bob]

A B intake is off set. Is the top of the intake flat? if so, it is the B intake.
That may explain the bolts.

[Mike V. Florida]

Frame sag.

[RUNNERBUN]

I too, suspect it is due to frame sag. If the hood alignment is good check to see if spacers have been added between the frame and body in the area adjacent to the rear engine mounts to lift the body to correct the hood alignment. It seems that the body is sitting to high from the frame. Although the carb is a Tilly and not an original Zenith it should not cause that problem and neither will a B manifold.

[katy]

More pictures would help.

Will get more pictures later today.

Something looks funny with the oil return pipe

Methinks some PO only had a short pipe and this engine required a long one, so the pipe was cut and spliced w/a piece of tubing and hose clamps.

Do you have a Zenith carb you could try?

No spare carbs at all.

Frame sag.

I'll check that later today.

it could be that the float a motor has the rear of the engine low

Another thing to check, although the slope of the engine looks about right, I'll check it w/an inclinometer.

Marshall V. Daut, the problem isn't the throttle rod it's that the carb is about 1/2" lower than the choke/GAV rod.

[katy]

Didn't get a chance to get more pics yet.

A quick check for frame sag revealed 1/4" shims under the front of the cowl, so frame sag is likely the problem, as was suggested.

Not sure when I'll get a chance to do a good check of the frame.

The cheap inclinometer I have, when put on the cylinder head, showed 3.5º slope to the rear. IIRC the spec is 3º.

Going to put some silicone grease on the gromments to see if that will help it slide and turn easier.

Any suggestions as to where I could get a good 1/4" U-joint to put inline on the rod?

BTW, took it for a test run and the vibration level at 35-40 MPH has decreased significantly.

FWIW, I understand that the truck was originally owned by Shell Oil. Too bad that the PO took the decals off the doors.

[Brentwood Bob]

Is the choke rod centered in the firewall access hole? Did you replace the gromet at the tank mount?

[katy]

Is the choke rod centered in the firewall access hole?

It's centered side to side but is tight on the bottom of the grommet.

Did you replace the gromet at the tank mount?

No, there's one in there, it's old so I assume that it may be original or an older replacement.

I put a small amount of silicone grease on both grommets and that made it easier to pull-push and turn, still stiff though.
I've ordered a small u-joint http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00N...=sr_1_4&sr=8-4
It's 6mm which is just under 1/4", so I plan to drill it out and install it just behind the firewall.
If that doesn't work I can always replace the rod.