A pan on a B engine

[John Stone]

Just came up with a B engine. I rebuilt it about 5 years ago and ended buying it from the estate auction.

Now the question: Is it possible to use smaller nuts (5/8 rather than 21/32 or 11/16) on the rods to clear the sides of an A pan. The relief on the B pan isn't much. I have been measuring the gain in clearance and believe using the smaller nuts I get about .1" versus the 11/16.

I know there is mods required where the pan meets the rear main cap.

[johnneilson]

Using the ARP 12 point nuts will fit the rods and clear the pan.

John

[Bob Bidonde]

I have modified a Model "A" oil pan to it the Model "B" engine in my Coupe. Here's an overview of what was done:
> The cutout for the rear main bearing in the back of the pan needs to be enlarged. Make the cutout just large enough to squeeze the cork seal that sits in the bearing;
> Using a ball peen hammer, put dents in the side of the pan to clear the connecting rods by at least 0.13". The Model "B" has these dents;
> A couple of oil pan attachment holes in the block will not lineup with the bolt holes in Model "A" pan. Leave them out;
> Make sure that the scoops on the connecting rod caps clear the tray in the oil pan. I used the Model "B" tray because like the later Model "A" tray, it sits lower in oil pan;
> Use the shield on the tray that covers the oil pump;
> Be sure the drain plug boss is soldered / brazed to the pan so it doesn't spin / leak;
> Use self-locking modern nuts on the rod caps to eliminate the stock castle nuts and cotter pins. Be sure the modern nuts have the same number of whole threads or more because the strength of the nut determines the strength of caps retention.

[Jim Brierley]

ARP #300-8333 nuts are 12-point and will clear a stock A pan without dimpling the pan sides. Reds Headers has those nuts, among others.

[John Stone]

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Thanks guys. Question answered. — John