Which type of 6" H&L discs for my rusty frame?

[Larry Jenkins]

Just flipped the frame over. The underside is a little rusty and a little rough.

I am looking for a flexible; hook and loop 6" sanding pad for my 6" Porter Cable sander to remove the bad stuff.

Now.. Who makes a good brand of 5" discs made for sanding metal?

Is Silicon Carbide the type of sanding media I should use? 60 or 80 grit?

Would appreciate any advice and/or recommendations to make my frame look purdy..

My elbows are all greased up..

Larry

[Tom Wesenberg]

I would sandblast the frame. That way you'll get the rust out of the pits, and it will be easier, as you might be paying someone else to do the work.

I'm also wondering about good sanding belts, as I just used my 3" x 21" belt sander to sand down a small trailer axle and the snow plow on my Cub Cadet, and the belts didn't last too long. I don't have hook and loop, but also have a rotary sander, and would like to know about quality sanding belts and discs.

[Mike V. Florida]

Even a knotted wire wheel would work.

[Larry Jenkins]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

I would sandblast the frame. That way you'll get the rust out of the pits, and it will be easier, as you might be paying someone else to do the work.

I'm also wondering about good sanding belts, as I just used my 3" x 21" belt sander to sand down a small trailer axle and the snow plow on my Cub Cadet, and the belts didn't last too long. I don't have hook and loop, but also have a rotary sander, and would like to know about quality sanding belts and discs.

Thanks Tom..

I can't do the sandblasting, for transportation to and from reasons, not to mention the pennies.. The top of the frame turned out well. I used Methaline Chloride and a variety of scrapers to prepare the top for paint. Then flipped the frame.

So, now like you, I am searching for a good way.

Larry

[Tom Wesenberg]

You can sand a lot of the rust off, then go back over it with a spot blaster from Harbor Freight for under $20. A 40 pound bag of Black Beauty is about $7 at Menards. Hopefully you already have an air compressor.

[Big hammer]

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I spent 15 hours cleaning the top,sides,bottom of frame rails with sanding discs
I stood back and looked at my progress, what about inside the rails,what about
the cross members? I ended up having it chemically cleaned for 60$
It looked like new when I picked it up!! Unless your only transportation is a bike,
You can get the frame to be sand blasted, chemically cleaned. Ask a friend,coworker,
old guy down the street. Pickup,station wagon,suv with a rack on top? Good luck getting
all the rust out of the pits by hand.

[Tim B.]

Lots of nooks and crannies on the inside of the frame to reach. Mike V's suggestion allows for flexible access to difficult areas without damaging your sander's pad and wasting sandpaper since you won't be flat sanding. An inexpensive 4" angle grinder using assorted knotted wire wheel shapes (instead of the disc) and an electric drill with assorted smaller wire wheel shapes and extensions will get you into most areas and will leave the metal with a clean burnished surface. Tim

[wrndln]

I sandblast every frame I have used on my restorations. They turn out great. The slightly rough metal after sandblasting leaved an excellent surface for epoxy primer like PPG DP 90 to bond to. Sandblasting gets into ALL the nooks and crannies in a frame. Many years back, I had some items dipped to remove the rust. The items looked very nice when I got them back. However, some of the parts that had were not one piece, i.e. front and rear hubs/drums seeped a whitish material similar to what forms around battery terminals for years afterward. I learned to NEVER have parts with areas between the asembly that can't be neutralized, dipped.
Rusty Nelson

[Mitch//pa]

Originally Posted by Larry Jenkins

Thanks Tom..

I can't do the sandblasting, for transportation to and from reasons, not to mention the pennies.. The top of the frame turned out well. I used Methaline Chloride and a variety of scrapers to prepare the top for paint. Then flipped the frame.

So, now like you, I am searching for a good way.

Larry

Don't skimp
I echo Toms sand blasting suggestion.....to many nooks and crannies to fight with by hand..

[Larry Jenkins]

Originally Posted by Mitch//pa

Don't skimp
I echo Toms sand blasting suggestion.....to many nooks and crannies to fight with by hand..

Quality, not cost. There are good ways to do quality work without a lot of pennies.

Yeah, ya got me..

Larry

[Tom Wesenberg]

Also, those red pressure sandblasting pots are more efficient than the syphon style sandblasters. I have syphon, hand held spot blaster, and the 50 pound pressure pot style. The pressure tank style doesn't cost much from Harbor Freight and it works well. To save money right from the start buy a carbide tip, so you don't have to buy lots of the cheaper tips.

[Mitch//pa]

Originally Posted by Larry Jenkins

Quality, not cost. There are good ways to do quality work without a lot of pennies.

Yeah, ya got me..

Larry

If you want quality sand blast it

[Marvin/TN]

You can get them at just about any paint and body suppiy store or maybe even a welding supply store. Never tried the welding supply store but it seems reasonable that they would have them. In my opinion the flap wheels do not work very well or that has been my experience.

[Marvin/TN]

There are people that will come to your house and sand blast. One type uses water and sand. When I first heard of the water/sand process I thought the water might make the metal rust but some how it doesn't. I friend had that done in in his driveway for the sheet metal on his car.

[C26Pinelake]

Originally Posted by Larry Jenkins

Thanks Tom..

I can't do the sandblasting, for transportation to and from reasons, not to mention the pennies.. The top of the frame turned out well. I used Methaline Chloride and a variety of scrapers to prepare the top for paint. Then flipped the frame.

So, now like you, I am searching for a good way.

Larry

Possibly you should say, I can't afford not too. Too important a stage to start cutting pennies! Quite often good enough is not good enough! Wayne

[mramc1]

Have the frame sand blasted. You'll spend more in sand paper costs than the cost to blast the frame. I had my last A frame blasted and it cost me $90.

[Marvin/TN]

If you don't have a means to haul it some where you can always rent a U-Haul if you can't get a friend with a pick up or trailer to do it for you.

[Tom Wesenberg]

I used a roof rack on top of my VW Rabbit to haul home a Model A frame with the tranny and rear end still in it.
A bare frame doesn't weigh much and can easily be hauled on top of the car.

[Mitch//pa]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

I used a roof rack on top of my VW Rabbit to haul home a Model A frame with the tranny and rear end still in it.
A bare frame doesn't weigh much and can easily be hauled on top of the car.

I would love to have seen that any pics

[pgerhardt]

If you have to do it by hand use 4" angle grinder and one of these: