Search for "oil" brings no hits?!

[Jeff/Illinois]

Originally Posted by Terry, NJ

But what ever oil you use, add some STP to it. For cars parked for a while it protects the cam, cyl. walls and other parts from from moisture. If this forms a thin coat of Iron oxide, It will be scraped off and contaminate the engine. These surfaces must be protected! The STP will protect longer than just the oil alone.
Terry

That's a plan, I spray fogging oil in each cylinder in the fall, and turn the motors over by hand once every few weeks or so thru the winter that has worked good for me.

IF someday I can finagle a place in the country with a long lane away from IDOT road salt, I'll just start the cars and run them up and down the lane to keep things limber. Running the car regularly is probably the best way to preserve them. Like the guys in the Deep South and So. Calif. do

[Sunnybrook Farm]

When I started running A's 45 years ago the debate was HD or plain 30 wt. I have been confused about the whole thing over the years but the info on this posting has cleared things up some, at least for a while until something new comes out. I have a rebuilt motor that I will be starting so my question is what to put in the fresh motor? I have read that you want a little friction during the break in period until the cylinder walls smooth out some.

[denniskliesen]

Originally Posted by Jeff/Illinois

IF someday I can finagle a place in the country with a long lane away from IDOT road salt, I'll just start the cars and run them up and down the lane to keep things limber. Running the car regularly is probably the best way to preserve them. Like the guys in the Deep South and So. Calif. do

Why not just put it up on jack stands and run it?

[denniskliesen]

Originally Posted by Sunnybrook Farm

When I started running A's 45 years ago the debate was HD or plain 30 wt. I have been confused about the whole thing over the years but the info on this posting has cleared things up some, at least for a while until something new comes out. I have a rebuilt motor that I will be starting so my question is what to put in the fresh motor? I have read that you want a little friction during the break in period until the cylinder walls smooth out some.

Put in what your rebuilder recommends. I had a short block built from AER and they recommend 5W-30 or 10W-30.

[Crankster]

Many website forums for whatever reason have search engines that don't work very well. Even google has gone from "most relevant" to "most $$$", and eBay lost the plot completely, they just throw anything in there at all.

Google "oil site://www.fordbarn.com" and it will provide what you're looking for.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

The Dog sez, Synthetic Oils are MADE to be a LUBRICANT, gummy, gooey Crude Oil is UNMADE, to be a LUBRICANT"!
Dogs' Dad

[tinkirk]

Just don't put synthetic in a newly rebuilt motor
Break it in with conventional oil with lucas break in lubricant for the first couple hundred miles then put in what ever you want and enjoy it


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Ron in Quincy]

I have been using Castrol GTX SAE 20W-50 for over 35 years; I do not use STP in my oil as it ends up in the bottom of the pan. Both of my "A's" have full flow oil filters.

I use straight STP in my transmissions, the cluster gear moves the STP up to the other gears; I also put one pint of STP in the differential and the balance of 90W gear oil, the ring gear moves the STP up to the other parts of the differential.

When the Model "A" came out there was no lead in the fuel, it was later in the 30's the lead was added to the fuel; I have run my "A's" on the 87 octane gas available here in California with what some call "CRAP" gas, I do not add anything to the gas and have had no problems with either engine.

Just my opinion, others my disagree,

Ron

[BillEbob]

Originally Posted by Jeff/Illinois

ZDDP additive in our '69 Mach 1 with 10.5:1 compression

Nothing added to the Model A or '36 Flathead and all is fine.

Been running Motorcraft 5W-30 in the Flathead, changed it the other day during winterizing the vehicle. Oil came out looking very good after about a thousand miles, no evidence of sludge in the pan, and this motor was kinda dirty when I got it she is running clean now after several oil changes with detergent oil

Instead of adding ZDDP to my '69 Mustang oil, I instead, use Valvoline Racing Oil which already contains the zinc.

From what I have already learned about A's is that their valves don't require the zinc since apparently the mineral oil that they were designed to run on didn't contain zinc.

Re: STP That product sure does produce a lot of discussion on both sides of the issue! People either love it or hate it, there never seems to be anyone in the middle! 😂

[Crankster]

I always associated it with high mileage smog engines in the 70s, something someone would add to the crankcase on a long neglected beater they wanted to keep on the road. It gives mollasses in January a bad name! Bought a can (comes in a plastic bottle now, natch) to use in a manual steering box, it's unbelievable how thick and sticky that stuff is. Couldn't pay me to put that in a motor!

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by Jeff/Illinois

That's a plan, I spray fogging oil in each cylinder in the fall, and turn the motors over by hand once every few weeks or so thru the winter that has worked good for me.

IF someday I can finagle a place in the country with a long lane away from IDOT road salt, I'll just start the cars and run them up and down the lane to keep things limber. Running the car regularly is probably the best way to preserve them. Like the guys in the Deep South and So. Calif. do

Jeff, you forgot the "I" after the "D".

[Terry, NJ]

Ken M. was straight out of central casting for a aircraft mechanic cum manager of an aircraft business. He didn't teach me every thing I know, but most of what I know about Aircraft. Over the years, he had developed this method of breaking in Lycoming and Continental AC engines. For the first ten hours, use Mineral oil then dump it. Then we went to 40 wt oil for twenty hours Then it was to the oil we would use, 20/50 Aeroshell. The purpose of this was to break in the engine and seat the rings. The next change was at 50 hours When the engine was was run, it was run at operating speed or about 2800 rpm. Getting the "Crappy" oil out of the engine was important, not for the dirt, but because of the micro particles of iron etc. During it's life, it was important to have an oil analysis. We took our samples at mid flow between removing the oil plug and the final drips, in short it was an average look at what's in the oil. Occasionally it would come back , Next Change at 25 hours! This was NOT welcome news to the owner! It meant your engine was coming apart and the end was in sight. Start saving for your new power plant! I don't know how much of this is transferrable to cars, but most of it has worked well for me.
Terry

Originally Posted by Sunnybrook Farm

When I started running A's 45 years ago the debate was HD or plain 30 wt. I have been confused about the whole thing over the years but the info on this posting has cleared things up some, at least for a while until something new comes out. I have a rebuilt motor that I will be starting so my question is what to put in the fresh motor? I have read that you want a little friction during the break in period until the cylinder walls smooth out some.

[Terry, NJ]

Fifty years ago, there were a lot of people who believed a lot of things that weren't true. For instance, how many have have heard the myth that you had rev a cold engine to get the gas (and oil?) up. Evidently in the old days, when Vacuum fuel pumps were used, revving the engine built up the vacuum, or something??? Oil! Oil is a special case! Myth #1, Oil doesn't wear out! Ya don't need to change it! Myth #2, Oil changes are just a sales tool The big oil companies just want to sell you more oil. Keys in with Myth #1. So where did sludge come from?
The best anti pollution device that the manufacturers ever came up with was the PCV. Those cars with crankcase vent tubes put as much smog onto the roads as the exhaust. Furthermore, they dripped oil. They dripped at intersections with traffic lights and caused some very dangerous conditions at traffic lights. The marine engine had used them with "Spark Arrestors" since the 1920s on inboard marine engines. Boats cannot afford to have fumes accumulate in engine compartments. Why weren't they used on cars too?
Terry

Originally Posted by Crankster

I always associated it with high mileage smog engines in the 70s, something someone would add to the crankcase on a long neglected beater they wanted to keep on the road. It gives mollasses in January a bad name! Bought a can (comes in a plastic bottle now, natch) to use in a manual steering box, it's unbelievable how thick and sticky that stuff is. Couldn't pay me to put that in a motor!

[leo]

It appears that the consensus from that study of oils for the Model A Ford casts some doubt about the use of diesel oils like Shell Rotella. And yet there are many of you Model A owners that swear by it. So once again we have differences of opinion and studies which contradict what people using the product have to report about it. I don't know about you but my head is about to explode trying to determine who to believe.....

[JD 1931]

20w x 50w Walmart supertect

[40 Deluxe]

All this obsessing over what oil to use is rather humorous! Why not worry over what color valve stem cap to use on the left rear tire? That's about as productive!

[Jeff/Illinois]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

Jeff, you forgot the "I" after the "D".

Ya got dat right brudder!! Friday nite it got all the way 'down' to 35 degrees and the ID(I)OT trucks were already out spraying road salt liquid stuff all over. Geez it hasn't even snowed here yet in NW Illinois.

Dennis, jack stands WOULD work but it would be better I suppose if I just moved out to the land of sunshine and forget about it It would be my luck for Heinz Werner (my stands) to give up the ghost, collapse, and send the 'A' catapulting thru the end of the garage.

Anyone ever have that happen, or know someone who it did happen too??

[V4F]

20/50 VR-1 Valvoline !