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Old 06-23-2017, 10:07 AM   #1
Terry, NJ
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Default Painting

I think I'm going to paint the coupe Brewster Green, actually that's Brewster green and black. It's a two tone. What I need is a diagram/description of what gets black and what gets painted green. This is a coupe body and I want to stick pretty close to the original paint scheme. I also am looking for a good, lower cost paint. 1 gal Primer, 1 Gal. Black, and half a gal of green + hardener and thinner. I'd like an epoxy primer. Last time, I spent over $360 to buy the paint for the town sedan. Also, there are a lot of dark greens and I'm sure that the paint manufacturers have a "Range" of dark greens that they call "Brewster Green" that in no way would match each other and I wonder whose come closest to the original. Thanks In Advance!
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Old 06-23-2017, 11:10 AM   #2
wrndln
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You need to get the Paint and Finish Guide booklet vendor sell. It has the information you need, including pinstripping info, assuming you are going to pinstripe you car after it is painted.
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Old 06-23-2017, 11:19 AM   #3
BRENT in 10-uh-C
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Default Re: Painting

Rusty is correct in that the P&RG is a great resource. In the interim, just remember the primary color was usually the color that was easiest to tape off for the secondary trim color. The primary color was painted everywhere including the interior. The body was assembled with tank in, and doors (L, R, and Deck) installed on it. The doors were closed when the secondary color was sprayed, so the jambs remain body color. Because certain visible areas of the jambs were hand polished, the fuzzy overspray line of the trim color was diminished somewhat by the light rubbing.
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Old 06-23-2017, 11:36 AM   #4
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rustoleum at tractor supply- 39. bucks a gallon

1 gall black and 1 gall green and mix to taste............

that's as cheap as paint gets.
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Old 06-23-2017, 11:39 AM   #5
Charlie Stephens
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You need to get the Paint and Finish Guide booklet vendor sell. It has the information you need, including pinstripping info, assuming you are going to pinstripe you car after it is painted.
Rusty Nelson
I would like to expand on Rusty's post. Be sure to get the guide put out by the national club(s) (MAFCA I think, maybe a joint effort with MARC). There are still a lot of guides from about 40 years ago with errors.

Charlie Stephens

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Old 06-23-2017, 12:07 PM   #6
wrndln
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You can go with cheap paint like Tractor Supply sells or good automotive paint that is catalyzed. Cheap paint isn't the sold in original model A colors, if that is a desire or requirement. There is a lot of research that goes into good quality automotive paint. It is over priced, for sure, but in my opinion worth it. With all the prep work and time invested, I go with good quality PPG or DuPont single stage automotive paint. I guess cheap paint might hold up for a while, but why gamble. To each his own, as my grandmother used to say.
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Old 06-23-2017, 02:00 PM   #7
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I am told Kirker makes a decent inexpensive paint as does TCP Global. I haven't used either but have seen cars painted with them. TS would not be a paint of choice.
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Old 06-23-2017, 02:29 PM   #8
Terry, NJ
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Just for the record, I bought a gallon of TSCs "Magic" paint ( The name alone worries me) in black. This is a "Catalytic" paint that mixes with a hardener. The first time I used it, I got the proportions just right and the paint was super hard. There was a lot of orange peel so I tried to sand and it was like granite. The subsequent painter said it needed more thinner but the hardness was good. I'm not a painter and I gave up and hired him. But this was black and not really a big problem to match. But I'm painting more than the fenders now and I want something that lays down nicely when I shoot it.
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Old 06-23-2017, 02:49 PM   #9
Charlie Stephens
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Remember if you put a coat of cheap paint on you will probably have to remove it completely if you plan to put good paint on later.

Charlie Stephens

Last edited by Charlie Stephens; 06-23-2017 at 03:26 PM.
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Old 06-23-2017, 07:55 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Terry, NJ View Post
Just for the record, I bought a gallon of TSCs "Magic" paint ( The name alone worries me) in black. This is a "Catalytic" paint that mixes with a hardener. The first time I used it, I got the proportions just right and the paint was super hard. There was a lot of orange peel so I tried to sand and it was like granite. The subsequent painter said it needed more thinner but the hardness was good. I'm not a painter and I gave up and hired him. But this was black and not really a big problem to match. But I'm painting more than the fenders now and I want something that lays down nicely when I shoot it.
Terry
Stay away from TSC's "magic paint". It's junk!
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Old 06-23-2017, 08:10 PM   #11
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Remember if you put a coat of cheap paint on you will probably have to remove it completely if you plan to put good paint on later.

Charlie Stephens
This is absolutely true. Cheap paint = cheap looking job.
There is much more to painting than just spraying it on. Consider getting it done correctly the first time. A good paint job can cost 3 to 5 K.
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