How to attach emergancy brake spring / grind coverings?

[DRG-ler]

Hi Guys. A quick question. Can someone explain to me or give me a tip how the emergancy brake spring can be tensioned?

I've repaired the entire rear brake and overhauled parts, and I'm currently in the process of rebuilding the parts on the car. Backing plates and brake shoes are built in, and now I'm trying to fit this stupid return spring for the emergancy brake lever. But the pen keeps popping out. One is even broken now.

Is there a trick?

Oh and the emergancy brake pads are too thick. You drag on the brake drum. How do you get these sanded thinner in the simplest way?


MFG Andy

[Oldbluoval]

Some truck brake shops can do that
I’ve used a stationary belt sander with a 6” belt. Just be cautious

[nkaminar]

Andy,

I don't have any tips for attaching the little parking brake springs. I think I used a screwdriver or a locking needle nose pliers. In any case, be careful. It took a few months for my fingernail to grow back and I remember it hurt like hell.

[MAG]

Everybody does things different. Here is how I install the emergency brake spring:
With the backing plate on the workbench ready for installation for parts:
1. Place the toggle lever into the backing plate.
2. Install the woodruff key.
3. Slip the spring in place.
4. Install the Ebrake Lever Arm on the Toggle Lever Shaft.
5. Install the bolt.
Continue installing brake parts on the backing plate and install the assembly on the axle.

If the backing plate is still on the vehicle this procedure will work but the radius rod is in the way and makes it more difficult to install the woodruff key and Ebrake Lever Arm.

It seems that installing this spring most people make this the last thing in the installation. It should be the first thing installed.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by DRG-ler

Hi Guys. A quick question. Can someone explain to me or give me a tip how the emergancy brake spring can be tensioned?

... and now I'm trying to fit this stupid return spring for the emergancy brake lever. But the pen keeps popping out. One is even broken now.

Is there a trick?

Oh and the emergancy brake pads are too thick. You drag on the brake drum. How do you get these sanded thinner in the simplest way?

To install the Emergency Brake Lever spring, we have a medium-sized flat-blade screwdriver that we have ground a notch into the side near the tip. We insert the curved end of the spring into the notch and pull it into position around the arm.

As far as the simplest way, ...we use the correct sized linings to begin with. Since you have not done this, I would think using a disc sander or a belt sander with 80 grit sandpaper will be the best way. Fabricating a jig using a board and some drywall screws to be a guide while you rotate the band against the sandpaper would likely be the best to keep the thickness uniform when removing lining material.

[nkaminar]

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Goes without saying, but if you sand or grind the brakes, make sure to wear a dust mask and face shield.

[Jacksonlll]

I used a bench grinder, outside.
On the spring, use a looped cable or strong wire, picture hanging wire, so you can pull it into place.

[Doug Linden]

The information on a tool like the one Brent referred to is described in the Sept/Oct 2013 issue of The Restorer magazine. I made these tools using old screw drivers and they work very well and make it easy to install the emergency brake springs.

[mass A man]

I finally found the perfect homemade tool for this job. I cut an 18" section off an old brake rod, saving the forged "EYELET" end. Then bent the length into a giant "fish-hook" shape. Lastly, hacksaw a 1/4" opening out of the eyelet, near the shaft. This will hook the spring and now just wind the tool around enough to get the spring on. I'm able to do one spring installation "on the car" laying on my back in about one minute.

[DRG-ler]

First of all, thanks for the full feedback.

I tried to tension the spring with a wire, but it didn't work. The idea with the converted screwdriver sounds promising at first. I'll try that. I tried the variant with a normal screwdriver and pliers an estimated 50 times. The spring jumped 50 times before it finally broke.

I had also considered installing the spring and the lever on the workbench. But the installation of the complete brake with the levers on the axle would not have worked without further ado.

As for the grinding of the brake pads ... Thanks for the hint with the dust mask. I will of course use it. To grind yourself ... There is nothing for which there is no video on Youtube !! This tool is as simple as it is awesome.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sFbBHmJMUN4

I'll recreate that for myself. I think that will give the best result.

Greetings Andy

[KenBolton]

Brent mentioned grinding a screw drive for a spring “puller”. Also put a notch in the end of another for a “pusher”.

[DRG-ler]

Soooo, yesterday I got back under the car and took care of the brakes. The tip with the screwdriver with the notch in the blade was really worth gold. The suspension of the spring took less than 5 minutes. The only decisive factor is to FIRST mount the lever and secure it with the screw, and THEN hang the spring in place. I always wanted to hang the spring in when I put the lever on. That does not work! In any case, the springs are now installed correctly. Thanks for that!

Then it went on with the grinding of the new handbrake pads. The idea with the grinding tool from the video was also great. I changed the grinder holder a bit. I have provided it with a stop that presses on the drive axle. This ensures that the working depth is always the same. Furthermore, an adjusting screw was installed that slips on the axle shaft and additionally supports the holder. As a result, it can no longer wobble so much. As for grinding ... a grinder works ... but a router would be better. I used around 30 sanding pads for both sides.




Here is another video of it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DV6DN8JOas4


Greetings Andy

[Chuck Sea/Tac]

If you just installed new cast iron drums, it’s possible the emergency portion never got turned down when the drums were trued.

[DRG-ler]

No, I still kept the old drums. The functioning for a while. Greetings Andy