31 2-dr. sedan frame welt

[robert shreveport]

I am puttng my A back together after 8 yrs. Have restored the frame and had the body painted. It's just the body going on now, no doors are on. No headliner or top yet, and no interior. I am trying to reinstall my body on the frame. In my How to Restore Your Model A volume 6 page it says; Figure 2 shows proper sequence of assembly 1st is the frame webbing, splash apron, rubber shim pads and body block placement, in that order. I have only put one rubber shim on the frame welting in all the places where it bolts.The car is not resting down on the front now with it all in place. The no. 2 body block which runs perpendicular with the frame seems to be holding it up. I have lifted the front of car up again and slid the long no. 2 body block back out and it looks like I had it in correctly the 1st time. No.1 body block that is near the front of the cowl has at least 1/8 or more crack under it and the front bolt holes under front of the cowl have 3/16 or more crack, anyone have any ideas what I am doing wrong. I had straightened the frame recently using a straight edge as a guide. It was low at the motor mounts.

Next problem; I have reproduction splash shields and they seem to be hitting the top of the running board brackets as I am trying to put it all together. Shouldn't they have some clearance at this point from the top of the runnig board bracket. Is this common? How much clearance is there when all is together

[Steve Plucker]

Robert,

As far as the "frame welt" is concerned...check this out:

http://www.plucks329s.org/pdf/studie...EAKARTICLE.pdf

Pluck

[robert shreveport]

Steve I have seen this before. Lot of changes wasn't it.

[Mitch//pa]

regarding your running board brackets hitting, you may have to notch the board underneath for clearance. i used a die grinder

[Mitch//pa]

you can add extra round rubber shims at hole #1 as needed to align the cowl to hood.

[Mitch//pa]

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tack the rubber pads to each body block

[robert shreveport]

It seems to me the car should sit flat with only one rubber shim added. The body is very close to sitting on top of the rear shock absorbers right now.

[Terry, NJ]

I don't mean to hijack this thread, but I'm getting close to this stage with my fordor/TS. Skimming Steve's very detailed description I noticed a part that said the welt does not have to be one piece. (Frame to sill padding). Does anyone have lengths or is it pretty much random? I can see that the area around the bolts should be padded, but is it needed for the long spans between bolts? Thanks In advance!
Terry

[robert shreveport]

Anyone have a suggestion about the car not sitting down on frame?

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by robert shreveport

Anyone have a suggestion about the car not sitting down on frame?

The body only rests on the wood blocks, so there is a fair space between the splash apron and body.

[Mitch//pa]

Originally Posted by robert shreveport

Anyone have a suggestion about the car not sitting down on frame?

i cant quite picture your abnormal situation

[Terry, NJ]

Tom, The Town Sedan actually has 100% sill to frame/chassis contact, approximately 8 ft. The wooden blocks are not used.
Terry

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

The body only rests on the wood blocks, so there is a fair space between the splash apron and body.

[Mitch//pa]

Originally Posted by Terry, NJ

Tom, The Town Sedan actually has 100% sill to frame/chassis contact, approximately 8 ft. The wooden blocks are not used.
Terry

the title of the thread is 2dr sedan

[Terry, NJ]

My apologies! Terry