How tight should the...

[spdway1]

Hello All,
How tight should the drag link and tie rod end plug be? How much play if any?

Thank you.

[ModelA29]

Zero play - but loose enough you don't squeeze the grease out and cause wear.

[Bob from Northport]

Just tight enough to get the cotter pins in to secure the plugs

[acchaplin]

I read somewhere on the BARN that the 'nut' is to be tightened all the way down, then back it off one full turn.

[Bigsnapper43]

Some where in my reading 25 foot pounds came to light.

[Kurt in NJ]

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If the balls are not new and round the adjustments should be made turned to lock then adjusted to coil bind of the springs then backed off to cotter hole.
There will be many opinions and some reproduction parts are not to original specifications

[Bob Bidonde]

This slide will help you:

[Kurt in NJ]

Bob, where in era literature does that specification come from?

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by Kurt in NJ

Bob, where in era literature does that specification come from?

Good question, I would like to know also. The only time I seen that was in Les Andrew's book.

[katy]

Not sure if this applies to Model As or not, (this is the only place I ever found anything about adjusting the drag link ends) but my 1965 Ford Truck shop manual says: "Tighten the threaded plug in the end of the socket until the spring is fully compressed (ball seat bottoms on spring seat). Then back off the plug approximately 1 turn to the point where the slot in the plug lines up with the cotter pin holes in the drag link. Install a new cotter pin through the end of the drag link to lock the plug

[rotorwrench]

This is where the need for a spring of the same wire size, free length, and spring rate is optimal. Reproduction parts don't always match the OEM parts. The little slide that Bob posted on #7 is likely very close to bottoming the spring and backing it off a turn. The main thing is that the spring is stiff and near coil bind but not bound. It needs just a bit to absorb shock loads from hitting bumps and such. These type of joints weren't the best but they do function well enough when wear is minimal. Worn out balls & sockets should be repaired or replaced just like a worn out modern ball type joint.

[nkaminar]

I just put the Teflon pads in my car and it steers a little easier, see https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/p...7730&cat=41738

The new pads will not fix out of round balls. In my opinion, the Teflon pads have the main advantage of not wearing the balls.

If you tighten, or adjust the pads in the tie bar, check the toe in alignment. I had about 1/8 toe out after putting the new pads in my car. See page 375 of the Service Bulletins.

[Joe K]

Ditto on the Teflon pads/cups. HOWEVER, their use is akin to the rubber wishbone ball cover - don't expect a tremendous life and keep an eye out for slop or "mushrooming."


Joe K

[nkaminar]

Delrin may be a better choice for the pads as it will wear a lot better and not deform, but still is a slick plastic and softer than the steel balls.

[gdmn852]

Hello, as per last 3 posts , that was my reasoning also for using the plastic inserts, easier than replacement of steering arms ,again.

[spdway1]

Originally Posted by nkaminar

I just put the Teflon pads in my car and it steers a little easier, see https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/p...7730&cat=41738

The new pads will not fix out of round balls. In my opinion, the Teflon pads have the main advantage of not wearing the balls.

If you tighten, or adjust the pads in the tie bar, check the toe in alignment. I had about 1/8 toe out after putting the new pads in my car. See page 375 of the Service Bulletins.

Thanks for getting off-topic.

[nkaminar]

You are welcome. I think others have covered the subject of how tight the pads should be. If all the parts are good you can screw the plugs in until the cotter pins can be inserted. The pads should be tight but not too binding. Some judgement is required. If the parts are worn out or in doubt then they need to be replaced. Just remember if you replace or adjust the tie rod to check the toe in after you are done. The instructions on Snyder's show how the parts should be used for the drag link and this is the same for the steel pads. See https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/c...0New%20Von.pdf.

[katy]

Originally Posted by nkaminar

Delrin may be a better choice for the pads as it will wear a lot better and not deform, but still is a slick plastic and softer than the steel balls.

Anyone know what grade of teflon is used to make the Teflon pads/cups?

http://www.standard-ptfe.com/propert...Steel%20Filled

[Bob Bidonde]

I researched all of the Ford Service Bulletins 1928 through 1942 and there is no quantitative instruction about tightening the drag link and tie rod end plugs. I use the 25% spring compression technique because it makes the most technical sense to me. All I did find was qualitative text indicating the drag link and tie rod need to be able to rotate, and not be loose (no play).

[spdway1]

Originally Posted by Bob Bidonde

I researched all of the Ford Service Bulletins 1928 through 1942 and there is no quantitative instruction about tightening the drag link and tie rod end plugs. I use the 25% spring compression technique because it makes the most technical sense to me. All I did find was qualitative text indicating the drag link and tie rod need to be able to rotate, and not be loose (no play).

Thank you for your efforts, Bob. I will be tackling it tomorrow afternoon, What eclipse?
Thanks again,
Don Jr