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Old 06-18-2018, 12:10 PM   #21
Purdy Swoft
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Default Re: Chasing my tail trying to get 1928 tudor running

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" Valves are just as likely to stick up as down"

A valve would have to be stuck really hard in the closed position for the cam not to be able to push it up. As far as sticking open, only the relatively weak spring pressure is trying to close it, not the positive lever action of the cam

I doubt sitting for 2 years is long enough to bind up a valve in the closed position

His problem is elsewhere
It doesn't necessarily take a long time for valves to stick . Tight engines with new valve gear will stick the quickest . New stainless valves can stick quickly if the guides are in good shape and ethanol fuel is used. When ethanol fuel is used with stainless steel valves it is best to add Marvel mystery oil to the fuel. This pertains to most engines . I had lots of problems with valves sticking on my Massey Harris tractor , old jeep pickups with continental engines , even Honda motor cycle engines with overhead cam . Anybody that has much hands on experience with engines will know this. I mostly post here to help people with little or no experience with model A's . Somebody with model A experience needs to help pass on helpful info before it is lost . Theory or just wrong info doesn't help anybody and only shows what little the person that posts it actually knows . . All things that apply to modern engines sure as hell doesn't apply to the model A . Many things can lock up any engine . Stuck closed valves are a common thing that can lock up a model A engine .
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Old 06-18-2018, 03:09 PM   #22
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Default Re: Chasing my tail trying to get 1928 tudor running

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Wisconsin air cooled V4 engines used on swathers are famous for exhaust valves sticking during the off season. I saw one snap the camshaft in half from a stuck valve. I have a Renault Dauphine with a stuck valve, so the crankshaft will turn, but not 2 full revolutions. Valves can stick in any position, and I wouldn't force it too hard if it's stuck.
Thanks Tom for your REAL experience and good info . New people to the model A hobby need real world answers like yours !!!!!!!
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Old 06-18-2018, 04:30 PM   #23
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Default Re: Chasing my tail trying to get 1928 tudor running

" I mostly post here to help people with little or no experience with model A's ."


Me too
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Old 06-18-2018, 05:09 PM   #24
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Default Re: Chasing my tail trying to get 1928 tudor running

Some already believe you . Maybe they will learn something .
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Old 06-21-2018, 06:50 PM   #25
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Default Re: Chasing my tail trying to get 1928 tudor running

Quote:
Originally Posted by gustafson View Post
" Valves are just as likely to stick up as down"

A valve would have to be stuck really hard in the closed position for the cam not to be able to push it up. As far as sticking open, only the relatively weak spring pressure is trying to close it, not the positive lever action of the cam

I doubt sitting for 2 years is long enough to bind up a valve in the closed position

His problem is elsewhere
I suppose my more than 50 years of wrenching on As should qualify me to agree with this post, but I imagine some self proclaimed experts would disagree. Oh yeah, right, I forgot, we have "real experts here" to whom I shall defer.

So, what did the problem turn out to be, anyway?
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Old 06-21-2018, 11:38 PM   #26
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Default Re: Chasing my tail trying to get 1928 tudor running

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Valves can also stick from using this corn crap gas, and from being assembled with too little stem clearance. About 15 years ago my 1939 motorbike stuck an exhaust valve. I had accidentally put some old crap gas (10% corn crap) in the gas tank, then rode the bike about 5 miles. A day or two later I went to start the engine, and it had no compression. I pulled the head and found the exhaust valve stuck open, and it was stuck so hard that I had to spray the stem with Kroil and use a hammer and punch to knock it down. I'd then turn the engine over and have to repeat this. It took about 10 times of repeating this before it was operating correctly. That crap gas is bad stuff, but when it gets old, it's really bad.
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Old 06-22-2018, 08:00 AM   #27
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Default Re: Chasing my tail trying to get 1928 tudor running

I've had several different valves stick open on various rigs, but never ever stuck closed to where the cam action did not lift them when starting. On the model A, I KNOW from experience (when an oil pump jammed), that the starter's torque will take teeth off of the fiber cam gear if the cam can't turn, and that is why I say this problem is not a stuck valve.

But, I'm usually wrong when I'm sure that I'm right. Ha!

(Tom, I'd make a comment about Studebakers, but a valve on my Avanti tends to stick open every now and then... A little overnight soak with Sea Foam and it's right as rain. Done it twice now, same valve, #4 intake. Backfires and farts when it sticks.). Much more common on low spring pressure engines though.
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Old 06-22-2018, 11:33 PM   #28
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Default Re: Chasing my tail trying to get 1928 tudor running

I'd be sure to use gas without corn, if you can find it, and also use 4 ounces of Marvel Mystery Oil to each 10 gallons of gas. Today's gas doesn't have the lubricity of the good gas of the 60's and 70's.
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Old 06-23-2018, 08:36 AM   #29
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Default Re: Chasing my tail trying to get 1928 tudor running

The three bolts holding the starter are not the same length! If you put a longer one in that hits the flywheel, It will act as if the engine is locked up. I would pull the starter and see if things turn in gear and go from there.
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Old 06-23-2018, 07:23 PM   #30
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Default Re: Chasing my tail trying to get 1928 tudor running

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The three bolts holding the starter are not the same length! If you put a longer one in that hits the flywheel, It will act as if the engine is locked up. I would pull the starter and see if things turn in gear and go from there.
That rumor keeps getting repeated, but all 3 mounting bolts are 1" long.
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Old 06-23-2018, 08:15 PM   #31
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Default Re: Chasing my tail trying to get 1928 tudor running

I helped a friend finish putting an engine in his car. the starter would not turn the engine over. I pulled him with his tractor and he popped the clutch. Worse sound I ever heard from a model A engine. we were taking the engine back out when he set the starter bolts on the bench and noticed that one was shorter than the other two. He looked at the flywheel and could see where the bolt was hitting on it. maybe he had the wrong bolts to start with but one of the three was shorter than the other two. Put the shorter one in where it is by the flywheel and the starter worked fine. I am just saying this just in case someone puts the wrong length bolt in that spot. A lot easer to check that than pull the pan for no reason.
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Old 06-24-2018, 01:05 AM   #32
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Default Re: Chasing my tail trying to get 1928 tudor running

Look it up in the venders catalog. They’re all the same. It’s easy to mix up bolts if theyre not marked and baged. I did it with the flywheel and luckily I didn’t totally strip out the threads when it bottomed out.
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Old 06-25-2018, 12:41 PM   #33
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Default Re: Chasing my tail trying to get 1928 tudor running

There is a possibility, something from the defective starter went down and has the ring gear locked up against the housing some how which could lock up the engine That is where I would start investigating. (as long as you know there was oil in the engine)
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