New engine break-in suggestions

[markyb]

Any friendly advice on breaking in my newly rebuilt engine from AER? I already have Rich's checklist of adding a few squirts of oil to each cylinder 24 hours before firing it up, and maintain high idle of 1000 to 1200 RPM to ensure adequate cylinder lubrication (I'm starting with Quaker State 5w-30)

I have added 4 oz. of MMO to the half full tank of gas. Any other ideas or suggestions? This is an insert block with a 6.0 Snyder head, the "Touring" model, for those of you familiar with AER's work.

I'd appreciate other suggestions, hoping to enjoy this engine for a long time into the future...

[Mitch//pa]

here is rich's instruction sheet for his engines. why not just follow what he say's and not worry about any other advice. here is a link for his break in instructions. dont forget to check for oil flow per #2... a good flowing radiator is also key
http://antiqueenginerebuilding.com/INSTRUCTIONS.html

[TinCup]

What ever Rich says is what I would do. Yes we all have opinions but we didn't build your motor. My only suggestion will not void Rich's warranty. Take it easy and don't rush the process.

[Tom Wesenberg]

In the past I've read where some people have said the best way to break in a new engine is to take it out and really get it on.
That sounds more like a good way to break a new engine.

[Mike V. Florida]

If you want the engine warranteed then follow the rebuilders instructions to the letter.

[Greg out west]

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Hey Mark,,,


I'ed install some kind of Magnet in the drain plug...I think the supplier's have them.You'll be surprised at what they pick up,,,Especially on a new engine...


Take care,

Greg out west

[H. L. Chauvin]

FWIW:

Have no idea about Quaker State Oil today; but in the mid 1980's I knew a modern engine rebuilder who said that after removing an oil pan from an engine for engine re-build, he could immediately tell that Quaker State oil was being constantly used by the owner as noticed by the tremendous amount of sludge in the engine & oil pan, thus causing oil pumps to get clogged & causing wear in connecting rod bearings.

As strange as it may appear, heard the same story from another mechanic in a different city.

The engine rebuilder had three (3) oil pans full of sludge displayed on his wall to indicate what he said Quaker State oil could do to an engine pan -- next to these oil pans was a very clean oil pan on display where the owner had constantly used Castrol GTX.

Have not heard any negative comments on Quaker State Oil lately.

[Aok]

I purchased a engine from him a earlier this year have about 150 miles on it and followed his break in instructions and so far so good. I did change oil at 100 miles and will change again a 300 before going on a normal schedule. Something I do with any new engine s there is always some crud floating around a engine when it breaks in and even at todays prices changing oil is cheap insurance to prevent any problems

[markyb]

phase one complete, started up for the first time and it ran beautiful.

I like the idea of the magnetic plug, or a magnet near the drain. I'll change oil real soon and add one, that Quaker State won't be in it long enough to cause any sludge. I'll run synthetic in it starting with the next fill.

The longblock package from AER runs smooth, and the 6.0 head sounds strong. Now waiting for a full cooldown for re-torque of the head. Itwon't take long with the cool weather we're having in Michigan today.

thanks for the ideas, Rich puts a nice package together, I'm glad that I bought the full longblock not that it's in and running so smooth.

[markyb]

oops! I meant "now" that it's in....i must've had a little 5w30 on my fingers

[Charles Reese]

Originally Posted by Greg out west

I'ed install some kind of Magnet in the drain plug...I think the supplier's have them.

seems logical! Bratton only shows one for the 29-31 pan. anyone know a source for the early pan plug? my original is brass.

[Bill Lee/Virginia]

I purchased one of AER's inserted engines several years ago. I installed one of Charlie Yapp's (Secrets of Speed guru) 6 to 1 dual plug cylinder heads on it. I broke the engine in strictly according to Rich's instructions. After 5000 miles it runs smooth as silk and fast as a Scalded Dog.
Bill Lee/Virginia Peninsula

[markyb]

Originally Posted by Charles Reese

seems logical! Bratton only shows one for the 29-31 pan. anyone know a source for the early pan plug? my original is brass.

Snyder's shows the same plug for 1909-31

http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/4430

[brum1]

The piston ring manufactures do recommend high loading to seat (wear) the ring against the cyliner bore to insure proper sealing. You will notice when rebuilders put an engine on the dyno they have no hesitation to reach high rpms within the 1st few minutes. That scares most people but if its built correctly it will run at high rpms.

[Mad Mac]

When my stock Model A engine was rebuilt a mechanic friend took it out for its very first drive. The first thing he did was launch it at the steepest hill he could find at full throttle in top gear. Said it was to "bed the rings in properly". Scared the cr-p out of me, but here we are 20,000 miles later and no problems at all.

[amishman]

I had AER rebuild my engine back in Feb. Followed Rich's start up instruction, using 10-30 Penzoil, It started the first time over. Our club did a 300 mile tour this weekend and I now have 1000 miles on the engine. 5.5 head, larger intake and exh. valves, balanced crank, and .340 Stipe cam, it run very well. Going add a Weber downdraft carb. Building this with the intentions of driving the 1930 Townsedan to the MAFCA convention in Tacoma, Wa, from Michigan next July

[Mitch//pa]

i have my AER long block with 5.5 head (trailer queen edition) engine sitting in chassis but not ready to fire yet. just ordered a bergs rad friday to compliment it.

[markyb]

Did you paint your exhaust manifold, or is that manifold dressing? I just media blasted mine and applied Calyx dressing and was quite pleased with the results. There was some sort of paint used on it before and it was pretty much cooked off.


amishman, that's gonna be one heck of a drive to Wahington, will you be driving it round trip in the sedan?

[amishman]

That's the plan, retiring in the spring, no time line. Assuming all goes well to Washington, will continue on down the Pacific Coast Highway to San Diego. I think I'll be 7000 to 8000 miles back to Michigan.

[amodel25]

Originally Posted by H. L. Chauvin

FWIW:

Have no idea about Quaker State Oil today; but in the mid 1980's I knew a modern engine rebuilder who said that after removing an oil pan from an engine for engine re-build, he could immediately tell that Quaker State oil was being constantly used by the owner as noticed by the tremendous amount of sludge in the engine & oil pan, thus causing oil pumps to get clogged & causing wear in connecting rod bearings.

As strange as it may appear, heard the same story from another mechanic in a different city.

The engine rebuilder had three (3) oil pans full of sludge displayed on his wall to indicate what he said Quaker State oil could do to an engine pan -- next to these oil pans was a very clean oil pan on display where the owner had constantly used Castrol GTX.

Have not heard any negative comments on Quaker State Oil lately.

Back in the 60's that same story was going around about Havoline 30.....