The Ford Barn

AntMac · 07-22-2021, 06:59 PM

1928 Model A Coupe Special: Took it for a drive, parked it, worked on projects around the house and when I went to start the A and put it in garage I found ammeter was fried. Dragged it I to garage and found wires burned up. My question is how can I test the horn wire to tell if it's damaged? I found the light switch connector block fried. Since car is coupe I can't get horn rod out and will need to take steering out which is a big job for a dumb guy. How to test the horn wire if it's good is the question?

Kurt in NJ · 07-22-2021, 07:56 PM

If the horn wire in the horn rod is shorted the horn won't stop blowing

AntMac · 07-23-2021, 08:06 AM

I removed the horn and battery. The horn was not blowing and the lights were not flashing. I don't understand.

rotorwrench · 07-23-2021, 08:30 AM

The horn ground controls the unit. The wire from the bottom of the rod to the button should have no continuity with the rod itself until the button is pushed. It can be tested with an ohms meter. If it looks good then it will likely check out OK. if it has continuity for both pushed and unpushed or no continuity at all then the wire is damaged. Ground circuits will likely not be affected by a short unless there was a problem with the horn during its sounding function.

Your massive short is the result of no protective fuse in the buss circuit. A person will need to test all components to see that they are intact and functional. With the extent of your damage, it appears to have shorted all or a major portion of the power circuits. Finding the original location of the short to ground becomes more difficult due to the amount of damage. Wires burn very quickly when under direct short conditions and even on 6-volt power.

KenBolton · 07-23-2021, 08:37 AM

Seems like a new wiring harness may be in order.

Jeff/Illinois · 07-23-2021, 09:33 AM

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I agree with Ken, I'd get a new wiring harness.

Obsolete Ford Parts in Sacramento I believe has a good one.
And also of course a new ammeter. The ones today are sourced from overseas but Bratton's told me that they are workable.

If those two little knurled plastic nuts on the back of your ammeter work their way loose it will get the ammeter hot and burn it out. That's what sound like probably happened here. It happened to me years ago on the Tudor. It's a good idea to pop the dash every know and then and make sure they are tight as part of regular maintenance. That won't do you any good now but may help in the future.

Good luck

Bob C · 07-23-2021, 10:18 AM

I'd take a look at the stoplight switch, especially if it's a reproduction.

AntMac · 07-23-2021, 01:42 PM

Thanks everyone. I am replacing all wiring but really didn't want to replace horn wire if I didn't have to since car is enclosed. Ordered parts last week but a lot on back order due to this crazy covid world backlog of production and finding employees. Thanks again !

Patrick L. · 07-23-2021, 02:58 PM

When it comes to replacing parts, I'd recommend NOS or good used. A whole lot of repro stuff is pretty much junk. [ especially ammeters and the cheap stop switches.].

If you can't find good wire harness, it wouldn't take too more to make one. I've read quite a few complaints here about harness quality issues. Woven insulation wire [ old timey] is available, especially woven loom.

nkaminar · 07-23-2021, 03:01 PM

Also, take a look at your cutout.

Tom Endy · 07-23-2021, 03:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bob C

I'd take a look at the stoplight switch, especially if it's a reproduction.

The reproduction stop light switches are an invitation to disaster. They could not make them any worse. Best to obtain one made by A&L. Bratton's carry both. The A&L part number 19411 sells for $56. The off-shore reproduction part number 19410 sells for $9.50. That should tell you something.

Tom Endy

midgetracer · 07-23-2021, 04:23 PM

Wiring harness from Sacramento Vintage is top notch. Very well made.

d. · 07-23-2021, 05:46 PM

Sacramento Vintage is the best because they have the proper machinery to make the wiring from scratch...authentically.
When they had a print catalog they showed all their equipment and it was impressive.
You could also buy the cloth covered wire with the correct stripes by the foot.
They have a website...check it out.

Jeff/Illinois · 07-23-2021, 06:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by midgetracer

Wiring harness from Sacramento Vintage is top notch. Very well made.

That is what I meant to say, Sacramento Vintage, thanks

Also yes the stoplight switch. A&L doesn't sell direct anymore but you can get their parts thru most of the big Model A Parts vendors. Well worth the extra $$ on everything they make.

07-22-2021, 06:59 PM	#1
AntMac Junior Member Join Date: Jul 2021 Location: Tallahasseeeeeee, FL Posts: 3	Ammeter burnt 1928 Model A Coupe Special: Took it for a drive, parked it, worked on projects around the house and when I went to start the A and put it in garage I found ammeter was fried. Dragged it I to garage and found wires burned up. My question is how can I test the horn wire to tell if it's damaged? I found the light switch connector block fried. Since car is coupe I can't get horn rod out and will need to take steering out which is a big job for a dumb guy. How to test the horn wire if it's good is the question? Last edited by AntMac; 07-22-2021 at 07:08 PM.

07-22-2021, 07:56 PM	#2
Kurt in NJ Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: on the Littlefield Posts: 6,156	Re: Ammeter burnt If the horn wire in the horn rod is shorted the horn won't stop blowing

07-23-2021, 08:06 AM	#3
AntMac Junior Member Join Date: Jul 2021 Location: Tallahasseeeeeee, FL Posts: 3	Re: Ammeter burnt I removed the horn and battery. The horn was not blowing and the lights were not flashing. I don't understand.

07-23-2021, 08:30 AM	#4
rotorwrench Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 16,425	Re: Ammeter burnt The horn ground controls the unit. The wire from the bottom of the rod to the button should have no continuity with the rod itself until the button is pushed. It can be tested with an ohms meter. If it looks good then it will likely check out OK. if it has continuity for both pushed and unpushed or no continuity at all then the wire is damaged. Ground circuits will likely not be affected by a short unless there was a problem with the horn during its sounding function. Your massive short is the result of no protective fuse in the buss circuit. A person will need to test all components to see that they are intact and functional. With the extent of your damage, it appears to have shorted all or a major portion of the power circuits. Finding the original location of the short to ground becomes more difficult due to the amount of damage. Wires burn very quickly when under direct short conditions and even on 6-volt power.

07-23-2021, 08:37 AM	#5
KenBolton Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2020 Location: Fall Creek, WI Posts: 213	Re: Ammeter burnt Seems like a new wiring harness may be in order.

07-23-2021, 09:33 AM	#6
Jeff/Illinois Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 2,789	Re: Ammeter burnt Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) I agree with Ken, I'd get a new wiring harness. Obsolete Ford Parts in Sacramento I believe has a good one. And also of course a new ammeter. The ones today are sourced from overseas but Bratton's told me that they are workable. If those two little knurled plastic nuts on the back of your ammeter work their way loose it will get the ammeter hot and burn it out. That's what sound like probably happened here. It happened to me years ago on the Tudor. It's a good idea to pop the dash every know and then and make sure they are tight as part of regular maintenance. That won't do you any good now but may help in the future. Good luck

07-23-2021, 10:18 AM	#7
Bob C Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: So Cal Posts: 8,743	Re: Ammeter burnt I'd take a look at the stoplight switch, especially if it's a reproduction.

07-23-2021, 01:42 PM	#8
AntMac Junior Member Join Date: Jul 2021 Location: Tallahasseeeeeee, FL Posts: 3	Re: Ammeter burnt Thanks everyone. I am replacing all wiring but really didn't want to replace horn wire if I didn't have to since car is enclosed. Ordered parts last week but a lot on back order due to this crazy covid world backlog of production and finding employees. Thanks again !

07-23-2021, 02:58 PM	#9
Patrick L. Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Largo Florida Posts: 7,225	Re: Ammeter burnt When it comes to replacing parts, I'd recommend NOS or good used. A whole lot of repro stuff is pretty much junk. [ especially ammeters and the cheap stop switches.]. If you can't find good wire harness, it wouldn't take too more to make one. I've read quite a few complaints here about harness quality issues. Woven insulation wire [ old timey] is available, especially woven loom.

07-23-2021, 03:01 PM	#10
nkaminar Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Western North Carolina Posts: 3,899	Re: Ammeter burnt Also, take a look at your cutout. __________________ A is for apple, green as the sky. Step on the gas, for tomorrow I die. Forget the brakes, they really don't work. The clutch always sticks, and starts with a jerk. My car grows red hair, and flies through the air. Driving's a blast, a blast from the past.

07-23-2021, 04:23 PM	#12
midgetracer Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Bismarck ND Posts: 1,189	Re: Ammeter burnt Wiring harness from Sacramento Vintage is top notch. Very well made.

07-23-2021, 05:46 PM	#13
d. Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Raleigh, NC Posts: 510	Re: Ammeter burnt Sacramento Vintage is the best because they have the proper machinery to make the wiring from scratch...authentically. When they had a print catalog they showed all their equipment and it was impressive. You could also buy the cloth covered wire with the correct stripes by the foot. They have a website...check it out.