Mallory Unilite Distributor HELP requested.

[19Fordy]

I converted my Mallory YL 2527501 dual point distributor to a Unilite using Kit # 558. It worked fine for a few years but as of late it has been giving me lots of trouble. The car runs great for about a 1/2 mile, then shuts off and dies. Will restart and then die again. This is repeated 1/2 mile at a time. I am thinking that I may have the incorrect ignition components. Fuel delivery system is fine. It's driving me nuts and costing me bucks.

Here's the specifics of what I am currently using:

Engine : Stock 1953 Ford flat head 239 cu. in. engine with a Holley 390 carb.
Car: 1940 Ford
Plug Wires:Taylor 8mm Spiro Wound spark Plug Wire for electronic ignitions
Module: Mallory 605
Surge Protector: MAA-29351
Ballast Resistor: M-700
Coil: Mallory 29216

If you are running an 8BA with a Unilite set up I sure would appreciate it if you would tell me what specific components you are using that work properly.

An internet search results in tons of various answers but, nothing conclusive. Therefore your help is requested. Thanks, JIM
Today 12/13/19 the Mallory Tech support fellow told me to use the following:
Mallory Coil #29219 (1.4 primary ohms)
Mallory Ballast resistor # 8214 ( .8 ohms)
Mallory Current guard protector # 29371 (This is a different part # than mine.)

He also said:

“The Unilite module will last longer if you run a ballast, it’s your choice on whether you want to run it or not, I can only make the suggestion. The Mallory coil has a primary resistance of 1.4 ohms of resistance. The Mallory module needs at least 2 ohms of resistance for it to function correctly. 1.4 +.8 will give you 2.2 ohms of resistance. A Mallory module needs to run at about 6 amps."

I think there are some Fordbarners who are using a Unilite with their 8BA.

All feedback is welcome. PS: Yes , I know there are some folks who say "go back to points". Thanks, JIM

[51 MERC-CT]

Don't have a solution for you but for me the solution for the Mallory Unilite I have that quit was to convert it to a Pertronix setup.

[JSeery]

So what are the resistance values on your current coil and ballast resistor?

[19Fordy]

Mr. Seery, Thanks for your assistance.

Resistance of my current Mallory 29216 coil is .7 ohms.
Resistance of current Mallory ballast resistor 700 is .75- 1.5 ohms.

The Mallory Tech said I should be using Mallory coil 29129 (1.4 ohms) and
Mallory Ballast Resistor #8214 (.8 ohms).

Thanks

[JSeery]

Big current difference there, so might be a factor.

[philipswanson]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Alternatively you can run a Mallory Hy Fire box which eliminates the need for any resister and supplies optimal power to the module at all times. That's what I have had in my truck for 20 years plus with no failures. It is much easier on the module according to Mallory.

[19Fordy]

When calculating the current using the (.7 ohm) 29216 coil and the M700 (.75 - 1.5 ohm) resistor , how do you calculate the current assuming the alternator puts out 14 volts? Do you add the .75 ohm value and the 1.5 ohm values together to get 2.25 ohms or do you use only the .75 ohm value OR only the 1.5 ohm value and add that number to the .7 ohm coil resistance? How does the math go?

When using the 1.4 ohm Mallory 29219 coil and the Mallory 8214 (.8 ohm) resistor how do you calculate the current assuming alternator puts out 14 V?

I realize these questions may seem elemental to some but, electricity is not my friend and i don't want to burn up modules. Thanks so much

[estout81]

Add the coil and resistor. The voltage divided by the resistance equals amps. In your case, 14 divided by 2.2 equals 6.36 amps.

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

You just need to change the coil. Pretty common as the uni lite has a current limiting protection circuit set at approx 8 amps. On a street car with the 216 coil it will bump this circuit quite a bit eventually causing damage to the circuit and it will shut down.
The 219 coil is better with the higher resistance but you never know what coil you are getting , many of the 219 coils have .7 ohm resistance ......
I would suggest using a Bosch blue coil # 00012 that has 3 ohms res and you dont need the ballast.

[19Fordy]

Bubba, Would it be ok to use the Blue Beru coil with 3.3 ohm primary resistance ? No external resistor needed. Add says it replaces the Bosch 00012 coil (which is much more expensive)? Look here: Thank you.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-BERU-Ig...ty!33076!US!-1

[flatjack9]

I have used the Beru coil with no problems.

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

Originally Posted by 19Fordy

Bubba, Would it be ok to use the Blue Beru coil with 3.3 ohm primary resistance ? No external resistor needed. Add says it replaces the Bosch 00012 coil (which is much more expensive)? Look here: Thank you.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-BERU-Ig...ty!33076!US!-1

Yes we have shipped over 100 of the Beru coils with no problems I still like the Bosch Blue as well......

[19Fordy]

Bubba, Thanks for the reply. When I use the Beru 3.3 ohm coil (with no resistor) the problem still happens. I have good grounds and the mallory 605 module test shows that it's good. Car starts with a toich of the button and runs fine for about 1/2 mile, then dies.
Restarts instantly and problem is repeated. Maybe, my problem lies elsewhere.

I sure do thank all the folks who have replied to my request for help.

[51 MERC-CT]

Will it do the same thing while parked and just simulating a 1/2 mile trip?
Fuel starvation?

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

Originally Posted by 19Fordy

Bubba, Thanks for the reply. When I use the Beru 3.3 ohm coil (with no resistor) the problem still happens. I have good grounds and the mallory 605 module test shows that it's good. Car starts with a toich of the button and runs fine for about 1/2 mile, then dies.
Restarts instantly and problem is repeated. Maybe, my problem lies elsewhere.

I sure do thank all the folks who have replied to my request for help.

Then the circuit in the module is hurt, being on overload for all that time . You need to replace the module.. Replace module and coil together for another few years of good driving......

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/maa-6100m

[19Fordy]

51Merc-CT: It will not due the same thing when parked and running at idle at operating temperature.

Bubba: Thanks for hanging in their with me. I will do as you suggest and post results.

Again, not to be overly indulgent, I really do very much appreciate the help I have received on the Barn as constantly responding to questions can wear a person down, especially if it's a question asked over and over. I always try to put myself in the "questioners" position as i know the feeling of frustration.

[51 MERC-CT]

After having problems with my Unilite I searched for others with similar problems.


Here are just a few with similar problems (interesting reading)


http://forums.mustangworks.com/f10/m...problems-8017/


https://forums.holley.com/showthread...lite-6AL-issue



https://classicbroncos.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=134646


This was enough for me to convert to a Pertonix unit.

[19Fordy]

51 MERC-CT: Thanks for the info. I read all that info. and found that it was not specific to my situation. Maybe it's just my interpretation but, the conversation seems to go "round and round". No definite answer on what parts to use on the Mallory Unilite with mechanical advance and the 605 module.

No doubt, engine compartment HEAT kills the module. I wonder if the module would run cooler if a series of small vent holes were drilled into the case of the distributor that faces the radiator along with a series of small vent holes at the backside of the distributor housing to let the hot air escape. The heat sink paste on the bottom of the module just seems inadequate. What's surprising is that one would think these modules would be
able to handle 180 degree temp. Or, perhaps a better way of providing a better heat sink for the module would improve heat disipatation.

[flatheadmurre]

I ran one of thoose units in a racer in the past...and after changing more then a few...and talking to their tech people...i was told to put the resistor in the feed of the module to drop the voltage down to around 10v when running to keep from frying modules.
The module uses the breakerplate as heatsink...if there isn´t enough compound between the module and the breakerplate it dies fast.
And a steelplate isn´t a to good heatsink from start...
Any semiconductor on a heatsink don´t like it to be hotter then that you can put your hand on the heatsink...about 60celsius...at that temperature the junction inside the transistor is just below what it can take.

[flatjack9]

I've been running mine for over 20 years now. As I remember I shot for 8 volts at the coil.