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Old 03-14-2019, 03:45 PM   #1
Werner
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Default Tie rod rebuilding

Hello to each other.

Once again I have a question:

I am currently revising the Tie- and Drag Rod linkages. I can see that the screwed pan from the right side end did not fit properly on the ball of the drag link. The ball was not in the pan, but outside on the edge. See right part on the photo.

Either the curvature radius of the end pan is too small deep or the ball is too thick.

Who knows the original size of the ball head?

Very thanks in advance!
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File Type: jpg P1090636.jpg (63.2 KB, 108 views)
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Old 03-14-2019, 03:58 PM   #2
Synchro909
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Default Re: Tie rod rebuilding

I think they were one inch diameter. That is, 25.4 mm.
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Old 03-15-2019, 01:19 PM   #3
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Default Re: Tie rod rebuilding

Hello!
Yes, this dimension fits. I measure 25.2 - 25.0 mm, there is also some wear in ovality. Definitely, the concave plungers have a wrong radius. Bad reproduction, useless!

I have now two questions on this subject please:

1) Are the Teflon pressure parts recommended?

2) How hard do you fix the pressure screw?



Thanks at all for every help!
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Old 03-16-2019, 01:22 AM   #4
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Default Re: Tie rod rebuilding

Where did you buy the rebuild kit from with the incorrect plugs?
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Old 03-16-2019, 04:17 AM   #5
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Default Re: Tie rod rebuilding

Hello Jeff,
I don't know this. The wrong parts was built in. I saw it, while I checked all tie and toe rods. They are black blackended.
The right matching replacement parts from Snyders are silver metallic blanc. (On pictures now grey, because they are now Anti-Friction-Coated.)
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Old 03-16-2019, 09:51 AM   #6
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Default Re: Tie rod rebuilding

Quote:
2) How hard do you fix the pressure screw?
I did a lot of searching and I only found information on tightening the "pressure screw" in one place:

Not sure if this applies to Model As or not, but my 1965 Ford Truck shop manual says: "Tighten the threaded plug in the end of the socket until the spring is fully compressed (ball seat bottoms on spring seat). Then back off the plug approximately 1 turn to the point where the slot in the plug lines up with the cotter pin holes in the drag link. Install a new cotter pin through the end of the drag link to lock the plug.

HTH, Ken
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Old 03-17-2019, 08:56 AM   #7
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Default Re: Tie rod rebuilding

Quote:
Originally Posted by katy View Post
I did a lot of searching and I only found information on tightening the "pressure screw" in one place:

Not sure if this applies to Model As or not, but my 1965 Ford Truck shop manual says: "Tighten the threaded plug in the end of the socket until the spring is fully compressed (ball seat bottoms on spring seat). Then back off the plug approximately 1 turn to the point where the slot in the plug lines up with the cotter pin holes in the drag link. Install a new cotter pin through the end of the drag link to lock the plug.

HTH, Ken
That is basically what I've done. It needs good spring pressure, just not locked on. The only time I could see a problem is if the ball was worn very oval and the above procedure was on the worn sides. Then when the ball turns to the greater diameter, it might bind.
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Old 03-17-2019, 09:09 AM   #8
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Default Re: Tie rod rebuilding

Werner, what was the name /type of "anti friction coating"?
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Old 03-17-2019, 09:55 AM   #9
Werner
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Default Re: Tie rod rebuilding

Hello Ken and hello Roger,

These are good hints! 1 turn corresponds to about 1/20 inch. Since long used ball heads have always some wear / ovality is present, I now turn back 1 1/2 turns after stuck.

Thanks again!
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Citroen 11 CV, 1947
Hercules NSU-Wankel Rotary Engine, 1976 (Canadian version)
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Old 03-17-2019, 10:29 AM   #10
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Default Re: Tie rod rebuilding

100IH, I made just a quick photo in the garage. Left is Teflon (PTFT), right is Molybdenum Disulfide (MoS2).

Very important is a clean non-greasy surface and that the coating dries long enough and hardens completely.
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