NEW A Engine

[SteveB31]

At $3000 with crank, rods, main and rod bearings , I think that is a bargain. You add crank gear, cam gear, cam, valves, guides, springs, oil pump, head studs, gaskets etc, and your head, valve cover etc, oil pan off your old motor and you have a complete 5 main inserted engine for under $4000- sounds like a bargain- if that price holds out It is a good buy in my mind. Only time will tell.

[hardtimes]

Originally Posted by Chris Haynes

The block was their first casting. It was machined but for all intents and purposes it was worthless because of some casting flaws. The crank and rods were also finished. The rod caps are on an angle to the rod to allow for clearance between the boss for the rod bolts and the cam.

Chris,
Angled rod caps, isn't that also used in modern engine construction 'for added rod end strenth'? These rods(Chev ?) must be something off the shelf, as Terry indicated that some parts (inserts,etc)would be easily available? Be nice if anyone going to the coming seminar could post a rundown here...gas is nearing $4. a gallon here..yikes!!!

[Milton]

From Terry's Sep2010 update,

"As mentioned in the last update, the connecting rod design was refined. Changes included adding ribs to the cap to make it stiffer, adding a glob of material at the top of the small end that can be partially removed during the balancing operation, and increasing the fillet radii where the small end joins the I-beam section. I’ve also decided to use 2 roll pins to index the cap to the big end of the connecting rod. Other methods of indexing were considered including special studs or bolts with a precise diameter, hollow dowel pins (or drill bushings) around the bolts or studs, and small dowel pins away from the bolts. If anyone has experience or a comment regarding cap indexing, please comment. Bolts chosen are 12 point “off the shelf” (McMaster Carr 91271A641) which have a minimum tensile strength of 170,000 psi. Figures 1 and 2 show the updated connecting rod assembly."

[BobinDallas]

I have used high strength steel precision hollow close fit bushings, line to line fit between the cap and rod body and close fit to the rod bolt on high HP aluminum rods with good results. If I remember correctly, several OEM used this method years ago. The modern method is "cracked rods" which are broken along a scribed line using precision tooling. The fine hills and valleys provide and exact alignment when assembled. No provisions for rebuilding the rod by surfacing cap/body though.

Good luck on the project.