The Ford Barn

Pa Joe · 09-27-2010, 08:44 PM

Anybody ever replace the clutch shaft arm? The hole in the end of the arm is worn egg shaped and very thin. I'm having a devil of a time getting the pin out. Any thoughts? Joe

peters180a/170b · 09-27-2010, 09:03 PM

I would find another clutch arm and cut the old one out [cut it in 1/2 with a carbide cutter] if for some reason the pin will not come out.That's me ,

sounds like the arm is shot anyway.

Tom Wesenberg · 09-27-2010, 09:12 PM

The main problem with hitting on a pin is that it tends to swell it as it tries to drive it out. If you can drill using a bit just smaller than the pin and drill in as far as the shaft on each side, then you should be able to tap the arm around and break the remaining pin away. Then you can drill at least half way into the shaft and tap out the pin.

I would weld the hole in the end of the arm shut and drill it out to the correct size. MIG works well for this. You could also braze it shut and drill it.

Tom Endy · 09-27-2010, 09:35 PM

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You don't say if you are attempting to replace the clutch release lever with the bell housing still in the car or on a work bench. I have restored many bell housings, all of them on the workbench. Working on it in the car is difficult and you could get yourself into a bind.

Until such time that it is on a work bench another repair scheme is to drill the clevis pin hole out oversize and install an oversize clevis pin. They are available from Bratton's

The early levers have a small retaining pin with a woodruff key inside the lever. Once you get the pin out you have to force the lever off the end of the shaft. Sometimes that can be difficult. The later levers have a larger pin that is tapered and is driven in from the top. You have to drive them out from the bottom, which is usually not too difficult.

With the bell housing on a work bench you can remove the entire clutch release shaft which makes it easy to work on. You can remove the pins with a hammer and punch, a shop press, or drill them out from both ends.

More than likely you will find the shaft with steps worn in it and the two bushings in the bell housing shot. The pedal shaft is also usually found with wear steps in it. On the work bench is the perfect time to replace all the worn parts.

Tom Endy

09-27-2010, 08:44 PM	#1
Pa Joe Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Pittsburgh Pa Posts: 188	clutch shaft arm Anybody ever replace the clutch shaft arm? The hole in the end of the arm is worn egg shaped and very thin. I'm having a devil of a time getting the pin out. Any thoughts? Joe

09-27-2010, 09:03 PM	#2
peters180a/170b Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Putnam Valley N.Y. Posts: 2,151	Re: clutch shaft arm I would find another clutch arm and cut the old one out [cut it in 1/2 with a carbide cutter] if for some reason the pin will not come out.That's me , sounds like the arm is shot anyway.

09-27-2010, 09:12 PM	#3
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: clutch shaft arm The main problem with hitting on a pin is that it tends to swell it as it tries to drive it out. If you can drill using a bit just smaller than the pin and drill in as far as the shaft on each side, then you should be able to tap the arm around and break the remaining pin away. Then you can drill at least half way into the shaft and tap out the pin. I would weld the hole in the end of the arm shut and drill it out to the correct size. MIG works well for this. You could also braze it shut and drill it. Last edited by Tom Wesenberg; 09-27-2010 at 09:45 PM.

09-27-2010, 09:35 PM	#4
Tom Endy Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Southern California Posts: 3,131	Re: clutch shaft arm Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) You don't say if you are attempting to replace the clutch release lever with the bell housing still in the car or on a work bench. I have restored many bell housings, all of them on the workbench. Working on it in the car is difficult and you could get yourself into a bind. Until such time that it is on a work bench another repair scheme is to drill the clevis pin hole out oversize and install an oversize clevis pin. They are available from Bratton's The early levers have a small retaining pin with a woodruff key inside the lever. Once you get the pin out you have to force the lever off the end of the shaft. Sometimes that can be difficult. The later levers have a larger pin that is tapered and is driven in from the top. You have to drive them out from the bottom, which is usually not too difficult. With the bell housing on a work bench you can remove the entire clutch release shaft which makes it easy to work on. You can remove the pins with a hammer and punch, a shop press, or drill them out from both ends. More than likely you will find the shaft with steps worn in it and the two bushings in the bell housing shot. The pedal shaft is also usually found with wear steps in it. On the work bench is the perfect time to replace all the worn parts. Tom Endy