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09-26-2010, 01:44 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: OKC / Tonkawa, Ok.
Posts: 1,977
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U joint rebuild
We are putting the final touches on the coupe and before we put the motor back in we inspected the u-joint and noticed enough wear to warrant replacing or rebuilding. The rebuild kit is certainly the most economical path but getting the retaing clips out is very difficult. So much so that seasoned A mechanics in the club all said they have had a lot of trouble in getting the old clips out. I used a dremel with a small cut wheel and they came right out. There seems to be no play to get a chisel or another wedge device in to get the clips out .
Any solutions other than to cut the old clips? The coupe is getting new valves, seats, guides and lifters along with new clutch, V8 pressure plate and lightened flywheel. |
09-26-2010, 02:31 PM | #2 |
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Location: new britain,ct 06052
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Re: U joint rebuild
I would think with as much time, money and labor already into it and it's a pain to replace you would replace it. JMO
Paul in CT |
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09-26-2010, 02:36 PM | #3 |
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Location: OKC / Tonkawa, Ok.
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Re: U joint rebuild
It's not necessarily the cost but all things considered if one can rebuild for half the cost of replacing then it makes sense. Plus if you make a rebuild kit then there should be procedure for it.
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09-26-2010, 03:16 PM | #4 |
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Location: Oregon
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Re: U joint rebuild
Some of the older NORS replacement kits had instructions to secure the UJ in a vice and strike the clips sharply with hammer and chisel. The clips are spring steel and very tight on the bushing. Striking the clip will relieve the spring tension, allowing you to slip a hook tool or similar tool under the clip to pull it out. Replacement is by tapping it back in with a hammer. Clips removed in this manner have no "spring " left so are no longer usable. Be very careful with the replacement procedure because the spring tension can cause a partially mounted clip to fly off to parts unknown (wear safety glasses) and I have never seen them sold separately.
The replacement kits I have seen lately are made from have rather crude castings and appear to have much more metal on one side of the cross-ring than on another. My concern is that this unbalance situation would result in a significant vibration that would be very hard to diagnose as to source. I never hear much talk about unbalance resulting from U-joints or bent drivelines and have to think this may lie at the bottom of some of those annoying vibrations that never seem to get resolved. I alway look and buy NOS Ford or NORS US or Canadian made UJ kits (Spicer, Borg Warner, etc) on E-Bay or at swap meets. These are well made and fit perfectly. |
09-26-2010, 03:27 PM | #5 |
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Location: Southern California
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Re: U joint rebuild
Fortunately, here in Southern California there is an abundance of swap meets and serviceable U-joints can be had at a lot less cost than a rebuild kit. I have taken a number of the rebuildable units apart for bead blasting and they can be very difficult. One little tip is to use a small chisel and put a small indention in the wire clip. Use the chisel then to tap the clip to one side as far as it will go. Then with a slim screwdriver try to pry the clip loose at the opposite end. It is a tedious affair and sometimes not worth the effort.
Tom Endy |
09-26-2010, 03:28 PM | #6 |
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Re: U joint rebuild
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09-26-2010, 03:37 PM | #7 | |
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Re: U joint rebuild
Quote:
Rainmaker Ron |
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09-26-2010, 09:32 PM | #8 |
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Re: U joint rebuild
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