CCPU Windshield and header panel - wrong?

[Brace Bailey]

I've inserted the header panel that extends up the front of the wooden header to the top of the cab. It is bowed somewhat, so I've pushed it back as far as it will go. When I set the windshield frame into the grove - and attempted to start one of the 6 or 10 wood screws into the top header.... I miss the wooden header by half an inch. Nothing but air, as they say.

Since I got a collection of parts with my Pickup - I wonder if I have a header panel for a coupe instead of a pickup. Snyders shows a part number for
CCPU and Tudor vs Coupe. The windshield frame won't go in far enough to insert over the tab in the header panel.

Pictures don't help much. I listed the parts from Snyders....

Any experiences that would help?

Happy Thanksgiving everyone!!

[1930-Pickup]

I know you said pictures wont help, but I thought you may be able to use this anyway.

[Brace Bailey]

Thanks 30-Pickup. Actually, I meant my pictures wouldn’t help - not yours. I saw that drawing - and on my cross section - the bottom part of the wooden header isn’t wide enough. There is about a 1/2” gap from the wood to the metal on the right of your picture.
I’m thinking I have two alternatives
1. Cut a strip of oak about the 1/2” width, and attach it to the wood header.
2. Order the new Header panel from Snyders and see if it helps. For the money, I think I’ll go with number 1.

What’s odd is that I have the old header (wood) that was in the truck cab when I got it. There are NO holes in it where the windshield hinge would have screwed in. Kid of weird.
Maybe I have a Coupe Header in my Pickup.
Any one know how the coupe and Tudor header are different?

Thanks for the Picture.

[Larry Jenkins]

Contact one of the Model A wood reproducers up in the stickys and explain your problem to them for some advice. I have no clue..

[Brace Bailey]

Thanks Pop. I may try that.

[100IH]

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That header subject is covered over at "the ford garage" some measurements and pictures.

[CHuDWah]

Originally Posted by 100IH

That header subject is covered over at "the ford garage" some measurements and pictures.

Specifically, here:

http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/193031headerpanels.htm

It appears you may indeed have a coupe panel - said panel being 3/4" shorter than pickup might explain your dilemma.

[Brace Bailey]

I measured my header panel - and it is 3 3/8” ish... close enough to tell me I have a Pickup/Tudor header panel, as I should.

I put a straight edge on the inside back edge of the panel - it’s straight. (Or at least close). The outside edge bows out about 1/2”, and is curved out...
The issue is that the V grove that the windshield hinge slides into ... is too wide.
I put it in my wood vice and “squoze” it closed until it was uniform end to end.
Then I installed the header and put the squeeze on it with two C clamps and a pair of channel Locks... and now I can hit the header board with a wood screw.

I’ve got to learn that working on a model A takes bigger hammers and lots of persuasion.

Thanks for your assistance 100IL - and 1930 Pickup and Pops.

[Big hammer]

There you go!

[100IH]

Also there is something that the drawn sketch does not show. There is a material called fender welt with a round beaded edge that goes from R - L at the top of the sheet metal header panel. It is sandwiched between the wood and the sheet metal and goes around the curved ends. The beaded part is like a water seal. It will touch the front panel, the wood and the visor. This means that the wood will extend 1/4" to 3/16" above the front fascia and follow the contour around the ends.

[desotoguy]

The diagram omits the metal angle that the wood header sits on, lower left corner. At least on my 31 Coupe. If the header panel is made in Texas, good luck making it fit.

[Bob C]

I agree with what 100IH says, read the thread at this link especially post #3.
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=122334

Bob

[Brace Bailey]

Where does the fender welt go? It sounds like it is nailed under the metal header, at the top of the wood? I just got done nailing that to the wood.
Across the entire top of the wood header - need a piece about 4’ long, sounds like.

Here is a picture of my header with no fender welt in site.....


I decided to stop and install my rear window glass and frame. 22 different cuss words - one for each screw. I have 15 of them in now.

[Brace Bailey]

Went back and read post #3 - I might be ok... the panel is tight against the wood where the hinge fits, and it is pressed back so there isn’t a gap now, and I can get the screws to hit the wood. No I just have to decide if I’m going to pull the nails out so I can get the fender welt in - or just staple it to the 3/8” of bare wood. I may mount the visor to see how close the welting needs to be.

[Ronald]

You will find that tapering the exposed front section of the header to witin 1/8 in will give a better fit to the welting and visor ?

[Brace Bailey]

I’ll do a test fitting when the paint drys. The header is being a real PIA on the paint process.

I may have to buy some additional fender felt too.

Thanks for the tip !
BB

[100IH]

The welt goes on fenders, header and cowl tank. There 2 sizes of bead. I think that the smaller bead is for header. Most all bead welt available is vinyl plastic from the vendors. The original was made differently and one vendor makes it for model As : fordscript.com. After checking, I found that the 3/16 smaller welt is for the fuel tank.

[Brace Bailey]

After getting the welting for the top panel, the gasket for the hinge, nailing it up - I tried to install the windshield. No matter what I tried, I could not get it to swing over the gas cap, and it was almost scraping the gas tank. I checked Snyders on-line catalog and confirmed that I had the 30-1 hinge on the top of my windshield frame. First picture is the 30-1, second is the 28-29, but the description in the narrative had them reversed.

Enlisted the help of one of my Model A buddies - sent pictures of the hinge.
He took pictures of the “flat” hinge in his 30 Tudor, and said I have a 28-29 hinge. I found the correct flat hinge, installed it in the frame and hoped for the best.

I decided to try and “slide” the windshield into the already mounted 30 hinge half - after putting some white grease on the hinge. No luck... about a foot in, it would stop. My wife, who was helping me hold the cab down - checked the hinge and said it needed vasalene. I did just happen to have some in my shop... (don’t ask)..
So we applied a liberal coating to the hinge - and the windshield slid in with three hard shoves. I’ll never live this down.

[Larry Jenkins]

Originally Posted by Brace Bailey

After getting the welting for the top panel, the gasket for the hinge, nailing it up - I tried to install the windshield. No matter what I tried, I could not get it to swing over the gas cap, and it was almost scraping the gas tank. I checked Snyders on-line catalog and confirmed that I had the 30-1 hinge on the top of my windshield frame. First picture is the 30-1, second is the 28-29, but the description in the narrative had them reversed.

Enlisted the help of one of my Model A buddies - sent pictures of the hinge.
He took pictures of the “flat” hinge in his 30 Tudor, and said I have a 28-29 hinge. I found the correct flat hinge, installed it in the frame and hoped for the best.

I decided to try and “slide” the windshield into the already mounted 30 hinge half - after putting some white grease on the hinge. No luck... about a foot in, it would stop. My wife, who was helping me hold the cab down - checked the hinge and said it needed vasalene. I did just happen to have some in my shop... (don’t ask)..
So we applied a liberal coating to the hinge - and the windshield slid in with three hard shoves. I’ll never live this down.

Diana 1, Brace 0. Cab is looking real nice. Llike the cowl band..