School me on clutches.

[Talkwrench]

I have removed the clutch from my 35 pickup , [ 21 stud and 41 trans]. I have done this as Ive removed to trans for servicing. It did have a shudder anyway so I will look at everything.
So what do I look for here and how is the finger adjustment done? If I was to purchase a new kit from Fort Wayne clutch is this a straight install and forget thing or are there still adjustments and prep to be done?
It is possible I could go somewhere local and have new material bonded for the clutch, but not sure if that's the right thing to do.
Anything else I should be aware of?

[Lawrie]

Run your new dial gage over the flywheel face to check it for runnout,then just fit all the fort wayne stuff in,but change the bearing they supply for the pilot in the flywheel for a non chinese one.
Lawrie

[JSeery]

That setup is toast! At the very least need to check it for run-out (as Lawrie suggest), but there are more problems than that. The flywheel looks like it has been getting oil on it and the clutch surface, this condition would also destroy an new clutch and pressure plate in short order. I would look into replacing the flywheel or having it resurfaced and getting the oil leak problem solved.

[Lawrie]

Mate, you arn,t having much luck,
Lawrie

[JSeery]

I was going to say when it rains it pours, but was trying to restrain myself, I lost.

[Talkwrench]

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Its the can of worms..
SO I take it that the oil can either come from the rear of the block or the front of the trans? Anything special for flywheel removal then .. So there should be a seal behind that?

[JSeery]

Don't think a 21 stud engine has a seal, it uses an air type of seal. It is a slinger in a gouge type of setup. Not sure if the 21 stud blocks can be modified to add a rope seal or not. Need someone familiar with them to chime in. Might attempt to figure out where oil is coming from.

[Ross F-1]

That all looks rebuildable to me, as long as a shop can get new finger bolts (shouldn't be hard) and knows how to set them. Surely someone in AU knows how to do it. Oil does seem to be the problem. Refacing the disc is no big deal, and the marcel (flat leaf springs between front and back side of disc) still looks good. I'm pretty sure the trans has no front seal either, just a slinger. If it has a bronze pilot bushing, someone may have been overzealous greasing it.

[deuce_roadster]

The front bearing retainer does have a seal inside it and it has a gasket where it bolts to the front of the case. There have been problems with new front main drive gear bearings that have the snap ring groove off a little leaving fore and aft slack. I doubt this is where your oil is coming from, probably engine oil.

[Talkwrench]

I should have said its a 37 block, did they just have a slinger?

Ross , I think by the time I find someone and go through the costs F / Wayne clutch said it would be $65 to get it here to my door which I can swallow IF its the right stuff straight up, just bolt on no adjustments needed etc.

[35ragtop]

Talkwrench, I bought a Fort wayne clutch and pressure plate ,arrived promptly, nicely made and have done about 4000 miles on it no problems. I read on here that they are one of the best outfits.
Dave

[Walt Dupont--Me.]

I get all my clutches from Fort Wayne, You won't have to adjust the fingers, FW spot welds the studs so no one fools them. I'd get the kit, thro out bearing and piolet bearing in the kit. The 37 does not have a rear seal, it could be leaking around the cork gasket on the rear of the pan, Walt

[the cooch]

Guys with flathead experience please elaborate further. What causes uneven wear around the fingers like that? How many miles did this set up work for? Small amounts of flywheel runout, internal throwout bearing wear, fork shaft wobble etc. adding up to typical fatigue, thus the replaceable small parts? Adjustment to p.p. out? Should new clutch and resurfaced flywheel be balanced together before next installation? Replace throwout bearing as well as new flywheel bushing? Besides the oil invasion what's really gone "wrong" in there? Thanks experts, for any imput, fun to air things out for the sake of current and future hobbyists! -Chris

[Tony, NY]

Is that lockwire done correctly, on the flywheel screws? Just curious.

[bbrocksr]

Originally Posted by Tony, NY

Is that lockwire done correctly, on the flywheel screws? Just curious.

No!

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by Tony, NY

Is that lockwire done correctly, on the flywheel screws? Just curious.

Something along the lines of the pic below would be quite appropriate. The idea is to hold tension on each bolt head toward the "tighty" direction, rather than toward the "loosy" direction...or no direction at all. DD

[Talkwrench]

Cooch ,Im interested in those answers too. As far as how long its been like that ? "Henry" has been on the road for a good year and a half , driven almost daily for about 12 months.

It did have a clutch shudder, not bad I could control it.

One thing I did see last night is that there was oil sitting in the flywheel groove [under the bolts last pic]seamed quite tacky ,but I think it was engine oil

If my 37 block has no seal , can it only be the cork gasket Walt mentioned?
I will check how the draught works if anyone could throw up a few pics of where to check?

[Lawrie]

walt, thats if he has the 37 engine in.
Lawrie

[Walt Dupont--Me.]

Originally Posted by the cooch

Guys with flathead experience please elaborate further. What causes uneven wear around the fingers like that? How many miles did this set up work for? Small amounts of flywheel runout, internal throwout bearing wear, fork shaft wobble etc. adding up to typical fatigue, thus the replaceable small parts? Adjustment to p.p. out? Should new clutch and resurfaced flywheel be balanced together before next installation? Replace throwout bearing as well as new flywheel bushing? Besides the oil invasion what's really gone "wrong" in there? Thanks experts, for any imput, fun to air things out for the sake of current and future hobbyists! -Chris

You have to be carful not the over fill the oil in those early engines 32-42 with no rear seal, if you do it will leak into the clutch area. If you pick up one of those cars by the front bumper and stand it on the rear bumper the oil will run right out of the pan into the clutch. You should have the flywheel resurfaced and after installing check the run out, I've seen them with run out because the flywheel grinder didn't clean the rear of the wheel before setting it up in the machine. I think that one worn finger on the PP is because the fingers were not set up right. You should have the wheel and PP balanced, you'll find the Fort Wayne PP pretty close to balance. You'll have to remove the pan to remove the flywheel. You'll see the cork gasket when you remove the pan. Walt

[jake197000]

ive used fort wayne clutch several times.super good work.