Ted's Floaters on newly rebuilt brake system?

[Texas Tom]

I've used Ted's Floaters on two Model A's. In one case the results were good; in the other, not so much.

I'm now working on a comprehensive restoration of a 1930 Town Sedan. The brake system will be all new: new cast iron drums, new shoes, new everything. Drums are turned and shoes are arched to the drums. No compromises!

That being the case, is there any advantage to installing Ted's Floaters in this system? If so, specifically what is the advantage?

I'm thinking there's no reason to use the floaters. But if I'm wrong, please tell me why.

Thanks.

[columbiA]

A properly rebuilt original brake system will stop the car very well.Teds Floaters will stop the car just as well,but with reduced pedal pressure,and at my age I like the floaters as well as a longer clutch release lever.

[Richard in Anaheim CA]

With a complete new brake system, USE IT.

If you aren't happy with them later, then think about Flat Head Teds mods.

Richard
Anaheim CA

[Glenn C.]

A knowledgable friend of mine suggested to go with the original system for awhile to seat everything, then install the Ted's Floaters on the front wheels first, again using the car for 100 miles or so, then install the floaters on the rear wheels. Town Sedans are heavy cars. They need all the help we can provide for a safe stop.

[Marco Tahtaras]

The absolute largest advantage to the floaters is the self centering aspect on the front brakes. If you TRULY center the shoes (which is rare) the change will be negligible. He provides an option to improve (not perfect) the centering on the rears which if handled well (again, rare) can benefit the rear brakes with or without the floaters.

The bottom line is it depends on your skills and possibly luck. Shoe centering is by far the largest issue and many folks that believe they have done so are close at best. That isn't to say that nobody succeeds, just that I haven't seen such an example yet.

BTW, I have no need or use for the addition. It's important to note that I drive my cars aggressively in city traffic.

[Marco Tahtaras]

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Originally Posted by Glenn C.

A knowledgable friend of mine suggested to go with the original system for awhile to seat everything, then install the Ted's Floaters on the front wheels first, again using the car for 100 miles or so, then install the floaters on the rear wheels. Town Sedans are heavy cars. They need all the help we can provide for a safe stop.

The first time I did brakes on a Fordor (170-A) I was expecting more effort to stop than the little '29 Roadster I put 48k miles on. On my first test run I almost put myself into the windshield! I didn't go into a slide like my Roadster would do. Because of the extra weight the tires bit the pavement big time before breaking loose. That was a shock!

[jerry shook]

My suggestion order direct from ted. They are the best. I tried the ones sold using flat head teds name not as good. When properly installed they are great.

[allen]

Originally Posted by jerry shook

My suggestion order direct from ted. They are the best. I tried the ones sold using flat head teds name not as good. When properly installed they are great.

with Jerry I have four model a all with Teds system. BTW go with the deluxe kit form teds stay away form the standard

[mkmskm]

I've had the Ted's kit for several years now and they work great. My wife drove (and won) our club's car games with our Tudor and she made an impression on all when she locked the car up once and screeching to a halt.

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by jerry shook

My suggestion order direct from ted. They are the best. I tried the ones sold using flat head teds name not as good. When properly installed they are great.

When I bought mine, Ted said just to order them from Snyders.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by mkmskm

I've had the Ted's kit for several years now and they work great. My wife drove (and won) our club's car games with our Tudor and she made an impression on all when she locked the car up once and screeching to a halt.

Sorry, but I am confused! Did she win because she locked the brakes up and screeched to a halt, --OR only because of the Flathead Ted kit was she able to lock up the brakes?



.

[jerry shook]

Confused, you always amase me with your post. The post was as simple as a.b.c .

[Bubby Sharp in KY]

Save your money ! Took the set off mine after about three years . Got tired of them pulling screeching and grabbing . No such problems with the standard set up . Also noticed most of the roller pins are undersize in the shaft size by .005 or so and that causes you to have to build up the tracks by an extra .010 or .015 . Brattons has the best as far as size is conserned . I ordered from three sources and Brattons were the correct shaft size. I have done about a dozen complete brake jobs so this is not my first rodeo. I have a jig I use in the mill and can get the tracks within a couple thousands of each other. Apparently otherpeople are satisfied with them but I was not. Bubby Sharp in KY

[Pilotdave]

I replaced the brake drums/shoe linings and many small parts on our Tudor recently. Used cast iron drums, swedged hubs into them, had them turned and had the shoes arced to the drums. I installed the deluxe version of Flathead Ted's system at the same time. The system was working itself into good 'tune' when I had to park the car for a while. I think the main advantages of a two-step approach are laid out above.

[Brendan1959]

I have Teds kit in my A roadster, with everything new except the drums, stopping was not so good. Now with new cast drums the stopping is excellent, to get registration here in Australia you need to have a brake test done, which measures pedal pressure and de acceleration. My tester said my brakes work better than a lot of modern cars!
Brendan

[Skeezixx]

I put on a deluxe set about 2 years ago with new cast iron drums. I can lock up all 4 wheels and I was never able to do that before.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by jerry shook

Confused, you always amase me with your post. The post was as simple as a.b.c .

"amase" = ???

My point (--just like others have elluded to above) is that for those of us who have correctly operating 'as-originally manufactured' brakes, they already will slide all four wheels under severe braking. Therefore what is the point or benefit? Repair/restore what it was when it was originally manufactured and see how well they work.

As far as requiring less pedal effort, remove a spring from each brake shoe on a stock braking system and I find it will do the same as a F/H Ted system. As simple as "a.b.c.".

Originally Posted by Skeezixx

I put on a deluxe set about 2 years ago with new cast iron drums. I can lock up all 4 wheels and I was never able to do that before.

What do you suppose made the difference?

[RockHillWill]

I have yet to understand the fascination with 'floaters'. There may be an advantage, I just do not understand the necessity.

As Marco stated, centering the shoes in the drums is the best single issue, but I also think that matching the length and the taper on the actuating pins helps along with a detailed effort to minimize the clearance at the clevis pins and especially making sure that each actuating lever is approaching vertical at the same time is important. This maximizes the leverage and minimizes the pedal pressure required for effective brakes.

I made centering tools in a manner that allows the use of a feeler gauge to determine clearance more closely and I also re-arch the steel brake shoe (in a hydraulic press) after the lining is in place (and also use a feeler gauge). This allows me full use of the entire thickness of the pads and extends the shoe life, and I find that I am able to get a better fit than having them turned. I am actually able to measure the actual fit to the specific drum.

Not giving instructions here, just offering a different perspective!

[FlatheadTed]

[Comparing my pins picture , (1) ,My squire Pin .Pic (2) My round pin .Pic (3) Snyder's pin .(4) Gold square pin (5) Stock Ford Issue .Measuring the unworn part ,They mesure the same as mine .I dont deal with Bratton .


QUOTE=Bubby Sharp in KY;395787]Save your money ! Took the set off mine after about three years . Got tired of them pulling screeching and grabbing . No such problems with the standard set up . Also noticed most of the roller pins are undersize in the shaft size by .005 or so and that causes you to have to build up the tracks by an extra .010 or .015 . Brattons has the best as far as size is conserned . I ordered from three sources and Brattons were the correct shaft size. I have done about a dozen complete brake jobs so this is not my first rodeo. I have a jig I use in the mill and can get the tracks within a couple thousands of each other. Apparently otherpeople are satisfied with them but I was not. Bubby Sharp in KY[/QUOTE]

[sonny30coupe]

Why is Brett always so condescending? He is always making snide remarks and putting others down for their lack of knowledge or for having different points of view than his. So what that he misspelled amaze. Does it make you feel better Brett that you caught the misspelling and outed him for it? What a piece of work.